Oceanography Review for Exam 2 1 What are the four principal categories of oceanography 2 What are the three different things that can generate waves 3 What type of waves do gravitational forces produce 4 What type of waves to underwater land movements produce 5 A characteristic of sinusoidal waves 6 When do capillary waves form 7 How do capillary waves change the water surface 8 Do water particles move with waves 9 What happens to the orbital circles that the particles make as the particles 10 At what depth does little orbital motion occur 11 In what direction do particles travel at a crest What direction at a trough 12 What happens to the circular orbits when the water depth is much smaller than half a wavelength 13 Define deep water waves 14 What is the relationship between wave speed and wavelength in deep water sink waves 15 Define shallow water waves 16 What type of waves all travel at the same speed 17 What is the relationship between wave speed and water depth in shallow water waves 18 Define refraction 19 Do water waves bend towards shallower water or deeper water 20 Do waves travel alone or in groups 21 What is the group velocity of waves in deeper water 22 How many waves per group are formed by throwing a rock in a pond 23 How many waves per group are generated by storms at sea 24 Define Surf Beat 25 Define Dispersion 26 Define Swell 27 What can be learned by looking at the swell when it reaches the coast 28 What is another name for sand bars 29 Define sand bars 30 How do longshore bars form 31 How do longshore bars protect the beach 32 What are the 5 different types of breakers 33 Describe the slope of a spilling breaker 34 What are the waves like in a spilling breaker 35 Describe the slope of a plunging breaker 36 What are the waves like in a plunging breaker 37 Describe the slope of a collapsing breaker 38 What are the waves like in a collapsing breaker 39 What are the waves like in a surging breaker 40 Where do the biggest and longest period waves occur 41 What is the fetch 42 Does a larger fetch produce big or small waves 43 When was the biggest deep water wave reliably measured Where 44 How big was it 45 What causes tsunamis 46 How deep is a tsunami wave in the deep ocean What is the wavelength 47 How high is a tsunami wave in the deep ocean 48 What is the speed of a tsunami wave Period 49 Are tsunami s deep water waves or shallow water waves 50 What force focuses tsunami waves 51 What happens to the wavelength and height of a tsunami wave as it approaches the coast 52 What was the name of the 1883 Tsunami that was huge 53 List the dates of the last two tsunamis 54 Define Swash 55 What term defines the remainder of the broken waves that return to the ocean 56 Why is there no net sand movement outside of the surf zone 57 Where does sand eroded during heavy wave activity go 58 What are rip currents 59 When do rip currents usually occur 60 How do you escape a rip current 61 How can rip currents be spotted 62 On the California coast beaches end at submarine canyons Why 63 Define the Coriolis effect 64 Who is the Coriolis effect name after and why 65 Why has the concentration of carbon dioxide steadily increased 66 How much has the human population increased since the industrial 67 What causes the saw tooth effect 68 How much has carbon dioxide contributed to the enhanced greenhouse 69 What is the second largest contributor to the greenhouse effect 70 Over the last 100 years by how much has the global average temperature 71 Is the rise in ocean levels caused by the melting of ice on land or in the revolution effect increased oceans 72 How much does the sea level rise globally annually 73 What are the two main causes of slow sea level rise 74 What locations account for most of the sea level rise 75 How much does the sea level rise locally annually In the U S 76 What causes this extra rise compared to the global level 77 Name a place that has disappeared due to land sinking 78 What are the two types of waves 79 Why does dispersion occur 80 Explain what happens with swash in light wave 81 What is the beach like in California Why 82 Do heavy waves put the sand on the beach or remove it 83 What will happen if you dam rivers and streams 84 What force does a water droplet in a spin dryer experience 85 Why is there also a Coriolis force 86 When does the Coriolis force occur 87 Define Geostrophic balance 88 Name two major ocean currents 89 What current has a flow 1000 times that of the Amazon has few nutrients is a biological desert is deep blue in color and can be up to 100 miles off course 90 Why does the Gulf Stream have few nutrients Matching Wave Terminology A Crest B Trough C Wave height D Wave Steepness E Still Water Level F Amplitude G Period H Wave Speed I Wave Frequency point 1 The time it takes for one complete wavelength to pass a stationary 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 The ratio of wave height to wave length The very bottom of any wave Two times pi divided by the wave period The vertical distance between the top of one wave crest and the bottom of the neighboring trough The very top of any wave The maximum vertical displacement of the sea surface from the still water level The speed with which waves pass a stationary point The very bottom of the depressed hollow between two crescents Fill in the blank 1 Wave amplitude is of the wave height 2 The sun s incoming radiation is in the form of wavelength energy which passes freely through the atmosphere and warms the earth The earth then radiates wave energy which is by water vapor and carbon dioxide which then the atmosphere 3 Moving objects are deflected to the right in the hemisphere and to the left in the hemisphere 4 The Coriolis effect is also associated with a Coriolis 5 All permenant ocean currents are in balance 6 Actual Sea level Matching types of sand A Yellow B White C Snow White D Black E Other colors 1 2 3 4 5 Due to specific minerals More than 99 fine quartz grains Weathered granite Ground up volcanic rocks Weathered granite True False 1 Going round a bend in a fast car you get shoved outward toward one of the doors You are experiencing a centrifugal force 2 The sea level changes when ice formed in the sea melts 3 Hurricanes can produce a 12 ft storm surge 4 5 6 7 Sand brought in by the swash causes the beach to …
View Full Document
Unlocking...