Oceanography Review for Exam 2 Answer Guide 1 Biological oceanography geological oceanography chemical oceanography 2 Wind gravitational forces of the moon and sun and underwater land and physical oceanography movements 3 Tides 4 Tsunamis 5 The water surface at sea is chaotic 6 When air moves over still water 7 The water surface is rougher 8 No the particles just go around in circles 9 The diameter of each circle decreases rapidly with increased depth 10 At depths greater than wave length 11 In the direction of wavepropogation opposite to the direction of wavepropogation 12 The orbits get squished by the bottom and become ellipses 13 Waves that occur in water deeper than half a wavelength 14 Wave speed increases with increasing wavelength 15 Waves that occur in water shallower than 1 20th of a wavelength 16 Shallow water waves 17 The shallower the water the slower the waves travel 18 The bending of waves toward regions where they go slower 19 Shallower water 20 In groups 21 phase velocity 22 8 10 23 Tens of thousands 24 Repeating pattern of relatively large waves coming into shore in succession followed by a series of relatively small waves in succession 25 The gradual spreading and sorting of waves according to wavelength 26 Well sorted uniform waves 27 We can tell how far the wave generating storm center was from the coast by how far the long waves are ahead of the short ones 28 Longshore bars 29 Shallower regions offshore 30 They form during heavy wave activity when the waves transport the sand from the beach to the offshore bars 31 The bars cause the water to be shallow offshore so the big waves break and loose energy before they can get to the beach and remove the sand 32 Spilling breakers plunging breakers collapsing breaker surging breaker and giant waves 33 Gradual bottom slope 34 Waves break slowly with the crest spilling down the face of the wave a little at a time over a long distance 35 The slope at the bottom is greater 36 Front of wave slows down fast enough that the crest gets ahead of it and plunges down toward the base of the wave Crest curls over a large pocket of air 37 The slope of the bottom is even greater than that of the plunging breaker 38 Breaking occurs over the lower half of the wave minimal air pocket 39 Wave slides up and down the beach with little or no bubble production 40 In the southern Ocean and the Pacific Ocean 41 The distance over which the wind blows 42 Big 43 1933 in the North Pacific 44 34 meteres high with a peiod of 14 8 seconds 45 Movement of the earth 46 4 km 47 Wavelength 200km 48 1 m or less high 49 450 mph 50 15 minutes 51 Shallow water waves 52 Refraction 53 Wavelength decreases and height increase 54 The Krakatau 55 December 26 2004 56 March 11 2011 57 Broken waves that wash up onto the beach 58 Backwash 59 Because the waves are unbroken and water particles have effectively no net displacement 60 Sand bars 61 Narrow fast seaward currents perpendicular to the shore 62 During heavy wave activity 63 Swim a few strokes sideways 64 By foam or debris they carry with them from the shore 65 Because the river of sand is drained off down the canyon 66 The apparent deflection of moving air relative to the earth s surface 67 G G de Coriolis who mathematically solved the problem of deflection when motion is referred to a rotating body 68 The burning of fossil fuels deforestation and the increase in human 69 By 25 70 A decrease in atmospheric carbon dioxide in the spring and summer and an increase in fall and winter fewer plant leaves population 71 60 72 Methane 73 0 6 degrees C 74 On land 75 1 7 mm 76 Thermal expansion of the ocean due to heating 77 The melting of ice originating on land 78 Greenland and Antarctica 79 2 5 mm 80 Land sinking 81 Sharp s Island Maryland 82 Gravity waves and Capillary waves 83 Because long wavelength deep water waves travel faster than short wavelength deep water waves 84 Swash is small and soaks in returning through the beach rather than over it 85 Rocky in winter and sandy in summer because the weather is stormy in winter and the waves tend to be bigger than in the summer 86 Remove it 87 Beaches will disappear because rivers and streams supply sand to the beaches 88 Centrifugal force 89 Because of the law of motion that states a particle in motion will move in a straight line until acted upon by another force 90 Only when motion is judged against a rotating frame of reference 91 The balance between Coriolis force and pressure gradient force 92 Western boundary currents and Antarctic circumpolar currents 93 The Gulf Stream 94 Because its water has come from near the equator and has been at the surface for some time Fill in the blank 1 2 short long absorbed heats 3 northern southern 4 Force 5 Geostrophic 6 Tidal sea level residual Matching types of sand True False 1 E 2 C 3 B 4 D 5 A 1 T 2 F 3 T 4 F 5 F 6 T 7 T 8 T Questions in relation to The Day After Tomorrow 1 A huge piece of ice breaks off of Antarctica and the hero is nearly killed 2 Yes it is based on the break up of the real life Larsen B ice shelf 3 Ice that extends out from the land over the sea 4 200 m thick and had been stable for about the last 12 000 years 5 The Antarctic Peninsula has warmed by about 5 C per decade much faster than mean global warming 6 Pools of water forming during 24 hours of summer sunshine This water flowed into cracks and then a multitude of wedges levered the shelf apart 7 No 8 No Air at the surface is under a lot more pressure than air from ten miles up Air under increased pressure is warmer So if a bit of air descended to the surface from ten miles above the surface it would actually warm up quite a Matching Currents bit 1 B 2 A 3 B 4 A 5 B 6 B
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