ES 106 I II III IV V VI 2006 May 5 Dynamic Ocean Surface Circulation A Related to general circulation of atmosphere B Pattern of gyres 1 include poleward warm current and equatorward cool current 2 North Pacific Gyre South Pacific Gyre North Atlantic Gyre South Atlantic Gyre Indian Ocean Gyre 3 Coriolis Effect deflects current to right in northern hemisphere to left in southern hemisphere 4 important named currents Gulf Stream California Current Kuroshio Current equatorial currents West Wind Drift C effect on climate about of worldwide heat transfer by ocean currents 1 transfer of heat apparent in cold months in mid latitudes 2 cold currents apparent in tropics and in mid latitudes in warm months D upwelling vertical movement of water 1 winds blow surface water away from continent 2 deep nutrient rich water rises from deep ocean phosphates nitrates Deep Ocean Circulation thermohaline circulation A Cold saline polar waters sink B Moves on sea floor 500 to 200 years C Rises in upwelling areas to be warmed and moved poleward Shoreline A interface of sea and land B affected by sea level changes erosion and tectonic vertical movements Coastal Zone A Shoreline shore coast coastline terms overlap in distinction B Beach accumulation of sediment along landward margin of ocean 1 foreshore from low tide to high tide includes beach face 2 backshore only wetted in storm events includes berm 3 nearshore has wave bottom turbulence 4 offshore out of wave influence Waves ocean energy generated by wind on surface A Terminology wavelength crest trough wave height wave period B Water movement orbital in nature dies out at about wavelength below surface C Surf zone where the wave energy touches bottom oversteepens breaks Wave Erosion hydraulic power of water and abrasion of sediment VII Sand Movement on Beach River of Sand A Low energy waves move sand up beachface water soaks into sand B High energy waves has less infiltration backwash erodes sand from beachface C Wave refraction 1 headlands have waves slow first bay areas slow later 2 curves in wave crests at shoreline D Longshore transport beach drift and longshore currents 1 Angle of water onto shoreline influences swash 2 water goes back downslope perpendicular to water edge 3 zigzag pattern of sand VIII Shoreline Features A Erosional features 1 cliffs and platforms 2 arches and stacks B depositional features 1 spits bars tombolos by beach drift 2 barrier islands may be flooded remnants of coastal dunefields C evolution of a shoreline straightens over time IX Stabilizing the Shore attempts to retain sand A Groins breakwaters and seawalls Hard Stabilization B Alternatives to hard stabilization include 1 Beach Nourishment and 2 Relocation X Coastal Classification A Emergent coasts 1 changes in elevation or sea level 2 characterized by cliffs and terraces B Submergent coasts 1 mostly changes in sea level 2 characterized by estuaries flooded river channels
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