Ch 11 The Directoire Period and the Empire Period 1790 1820 Part V The Nineteenth Century 1800 1900 1 Holoku a full length dress with a loose fit that fell from a yoke had a high neck and long sleeve Originated when the Hawaiian queen Dowager Kalakua requested a dress like looked like one of the missionairies 2 Mu umu u chemises that were meant to be worn under the holoku but instead the native Hawaiian women wore them for swimming and sleeping 3 Impressionist a group of artists in the 19th century whom painted strokes of unmixed colors to give the 8 Kashmir shawls shawl worn by Indians made from cashmere goat hair 9 Paisley shawls made in the Scottish town of paisley a knockoff of kashmir 10 Native American influence beading and ribbons added to clothing 11 Directoire Period military leaders 5 man executive government Napoleon 12 Empire Period Reign of Napoleon 13 Bonnet rouge Red cap of Liberty revolution Symbol of freedom since Roman times appearance of reflected light unfinished sketch like appearance 4 Dress reform Feminist movement not to wear corsets Amelia Henks Bloomer 5 Bloomer costume full short skirt worn over trousers 6 Rational artistic dress 7 Arts and Crafts movement A group of artisans in the 19th Century who wanted to convince consumers to move away from machine manufactured products and to support local craftspeople 14 Sans culottes costume of the revolution name for revolutionaries without knee breeches 15 Merveilleuses women who affected the most extreme of the directoire styles long flowing trains sheerest fabrics necklines cut extremely and huge caps 16 Incroyables incredible they were men who wore waistcoats of loose fit at the shoulders excessively tight breeches and cravats or neckties and collars that covered so much of their chins that people wondered if they could be understood or heard when they spoke 1 17 Dandy fashionable man who dressed well circulated the best society and who was always ready with a witty comment 18 Pantalettes long straight white drawers trimmed with rows of lace or tucks at the hem that became fashionable for a short time around 1809 19 Round gowns daytime or evening dresses that did not open at the front to show a petticoat 20 High stomacher dress had a complex construction in which the bodice was sewn to the skirt at the back only side front seams were left open to several inches below the waist and a band or string that was located at the front of the waist of the skirt 21 Spencer short jacket that ended at the waistline which in case of women s styles was just under the bosom worn by both men and women worn indoors as well as out 22 Pelisse similar to modern coat generally full length and followed the typical empire silhouette 23 Toques high brimless hats 24 Reticules small handbags often with a drawstring at the top also called indispensibles Ch 12 The Romantic Period 1820 1850 25 Indispensibles small handbags often with a drawstring at the top also called reticules 26 Cravats large squares of fabric folded and wrapped several times around the beck and tied in front 27 Stocks stiffened neck bands that buckled or tied behind the neck 28 Pantaloons fitting the leg more closely than trousers which were made in close fitting moderately full or very full styles 29 Cossacks extremely full trousers were based on the dress of Russian soldiers 30 Top hats predominant headwear style for the day and evening the crown was a cylinder of varying height and shape ranging from those who looked like inverted pots to tubes with a slight outward curve at the top 31 Bicorne two pointed hat worn with the points from front to back or from side to side 32 Chapeau bras bras worn for evening and carried flattened under the arm two pointed hat a french phrase meaning hat for the arm 33 A la victime short curly style hair 34 Carriage dresses Dresses worn for riding in a carriage Often had military style trim 35 Romantic movement emphasis on emotion sentiment and feeling possible to mass produce lace on 2 sophisticated textile equipment ready made clothing for men was now available 36 Bustles small down or cotton filled pads that tied on around the waist at the back held out skirts in back 37 Promenade another name for day dresses or walking dresses or carriage dresses lower waistlines wide sleeves and full skirts fastened either in front or in back were not trained necklines varied with many being V shaped 38 Pelisse robe dress for daytime that was adapted from the pelisse that was worn out doors 39 Imbecile sleeves extremely full from shoulder to wrist where they gathered into a fitted cuff 40 Leg of mutton sleeves full puffed sleeves 41 Gigot full at the shoulder gradually decreasing in size to the wrist where they ended in a fitted cuff 42 Demi gigot full from shoulder to elbow then fitted from elbow to wrist often with an extension over the wrist 43 Idiot sleeves same as imbecile sleeves 44 Marie sleeve full to the wrist but tied in at intervals with ribbons or bands 45 Pelerines capelike collars that extended over the shoulders and down across the bosom 46 Fichu pelerine two wide panels or lappets extending down the front of the dress and passed under the belt 47 Santon a silk cravat worn over a ruff 48 Canezou appears as a small sleeveless spencer worn over a bodice and in others as a garment synonymous with a pelerine 49 A la chinoise created by pulling back and side hair into a knot at the top of the head while hair at the forehead and temples was arranged in curls 50 Eton suit consisted of a short single breasted jacket ending at the waist front was cut square the lapels wide with a turned down collar 51 Tunic suit consisted of a jacket fitted to the waist where it attached to a full gathered or pleated skirt that ended at the knee 52 Mackintosh a waterproof coat made of rubber and cut like a short loose overcoat 53 Chesterfield named for the 6th Earl coat that was either single or double breasted no waistline seam a short vent in the back no side pleats and often had a velvet collar 54 Derby hats stiff round bowl shaped crowns with narrow brims favored for sports American name for Bowlers 55 Bowlers see above 56 Berthas wide deep collars following the neckline 57 The Victoria variation of the sleeve en bouffant had a puff at the elbow 3 58 Sleeve en bouffant alternated place of tightness with puffed out expansions 59 Bishop sleeve made with a row of vertical pleats at the shoulder that released into a soft full sleeve gathered to a