New version page

FSU CTE 3512 - Review for Exam 3

Upgrade to remove ads

This preview shows page 1-2-20-21 out of 21 pages.

Save
View Full Document
Premium Document
Do you want full access? Go Premium and unlock all 21 pages.
Access to all documents
Download any document
Ad free experience
Premium Document
Do you want full access? Go Premium and unlock all 21 pages.
Access to all documents
Download any document
Ad free experience
Premium Document
Do you want full access? Go Premium and unlock all 21 pages.
Access to all documents
Download any document
Ad free experience
Premium Document
Do you want full access? Go Premium and unlock all 21 pages.
Access to all documents
Download any document
Ad free experience

Upgrade to remove ads
Unformatted text preview:

Review for Exam 3Ch. 15 The Edwardian Period and World War IPaul Poiret- Innovative designer who established himself in haute couture- Started at House of Worth then made his own establishment- Influence was so great & captured spirit of the age that he served as a focal point for stylein that time- Claimed to have liberated women from corsets- Known for vivid colors, innovative marketing, & oriental overtonesHobble skirts- Made by Paul Poiret- Hems were so narrow women could hardly move- Straight, narrow, slits at bottom to allow walkingDelphos gown- Mariano Fortuny- Inspired by ancient Greek styles- 1907- Functionality & ease of movement- high quality silkduster- long cotton or linen coat1- worn when driving- cars were open & roads were unpavedlingerie dresses- white, frilly cotton or linen dresses with tucks, ruffles, pleats, & lace- resembled the lingerie of the periodbishop sleeve: sleeves that softly gathered to a wristbandArt Nouveau: jewelry was often made in the art noveau styletailor-made- today would be called a woman’s suit- jackets varied in length from the waist to below the hip- many imitated the cut of men’s jacketstea gowns: soft & less fitted, worn in the late afternoonpompadour: hair built high in front and at the sides around the faceknickers- combination underwear ornamented with lace and embroidery- French style had wide frilled legs- Directoire style was close fittingPeg-top skirts: fullness concentrated at the hip then narrowing gradually to the anklesminaret tunic- Designed by Poiret- Wide tunic, boned to hold out the skirt in a full circle and worn over the narrowest of hobble skirtsPullovers- Knitted sweaters that pulled on over the head2- Had no waist, belted at the hip, had long sleeves- Popular during WWIlounge coat- Sack jackets that became the standard suit jacket for men during the 20th century- Worn for all occasions & appeared for leisure time wear as sport jacketsAscots: ties with wide ends that were worn with one end looped over the other and held in place with a tie pintop coats- Overcoat that ended at the hip- Worn by affluent men who could afford more than 1 overcoatblazer- Worn for tennis, yachting, or other sports- Worn with unmatched trousersCh. 16 The Twenties, Thirties, and World War IIFlapper- Fashionable young women who cut their hair short, the most extreme being almost identical to those of men- Wore rouge, lipstick, & eyebrow pencil- Free from all restraints of the past- Smoked and drank in public, wore shorter skirtsL-85 Regulations- During World War II- Restricted the quantity of cloth that could be used in clothing- Eliminated trouser cuffs, extra pockets, vests with double-breasted suits- Regulating the width of skirt hems and the length of men’s trousers- Limited supplies of nylon, wool, silk, natural rubber, leather (needed for the war effort)Sportswear- Active sports became more widespread, so sports clothing became more important- The move to outdoor recreation established sportswear as a separate categoryhookless fasteners- Made by Gideon Sunback, who improved the zipper- Used in corsets, gloves, sleeping bags, money belts, and tobacco pouchesGabrielle “Coco” Chanel- Began working as a designer before WWI in a small shop where she made casual knit jackets & pullover sweaters- Soon she was having these garments made specially for her own clients- After the war she returned to Paris and set up the most influential salon in Paris3- Credited with making the suntanned look and costume jewelry popular- Designed simple, classic wool jersey styles- Briefly designed for Hollywood films Madeleine Vionnet- Began designing before 1920, retired in 1939- Rejected corsets, padding or stiffening- Designs compared to Greek sculptures- Worked on life models- Slim-firm figures, oose robes- Clients: Isadora Duncan, European nobility- Hollywood royalty: Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn, Gypsy Rose Leebias cut- Elegant, feminine look- Fabric clings- Shows curvesElsa Schiaparelli- known for her dramatic flair and her use of surrealist motifs.- Begins career in Paris in 1930s where she created sweaters in bizarre designs- New York store: 1949- First to:o Use synthetic fabricso Zipper fasteningso Use vivid colors such as hot pink (shocking pink)o Open a boutique offering ready-to-wearhaute couture: firms that create garments that may be sold to private customers or to other segments of the fashion industry who also acquire the right to reproduce the designsMainbocher- American born designer who went to Paris in the 1920s to work as a fashion editor- When the war came he left Paris & went to New York where he continued to practice French coutureClaire McCardell- Studied at Parsons and in Paris- 1st individual collection was for Townley Frocks in 1931 where she designed mainly sportswear and casual clothes- after 1940 she designed under her own name- clothing was considered radical at first and was hard to sell, but women found her designsfit well & were comfortable- credited with making popular: matching separates, dirndl skirts, the monastic ( a bias cut, full tent dress that followed body contours)hardware closings, spaghetti ties, the diaper bathing suit, ballet slippers, and the poncho4Adrian - gained early recognition as a designer for contemporary & period films- in 1941 he opened his own business - work is known for his subtle details- designed “in the round” thinking about how a woman would look from all anglesNorman Norelll- American designer- Worked for Hattie Carnegie, then joined with a fine tailor, Anthony Traina, to form a newfirm. Later went off on his ownPauline Trigere- French, came to America in 1937- Worked for Hattie Carnegie, then formed her own business and showed her 1st collection in 1942, a group of 12 dressesArt Deco- Typical of art produced in the 1920s and 1930s- Geometric forms that could be derived from artistic expressions of the past or present- Includes Egyptian and Mayan motifs as well as other modern art movements- Seen in 1920s fashions, in the geometric lines of many garmentsSurrealism- “beyond the real”- literary and art movement that began in the 1920s and was influenced by Freudianism- dreamlike state- influences are seen in Elsa Schiaparelli’s designspanties- short, buttoned, or elasticized at the waistline, often very decorative- replaced drawers or knickersstep-ins/cami-knickers/teddies: combination of a camisole and pantieshandkerchief skirt: had pleats and gathers placed off


View Full Document
Download Review for Exam 3
Our administrator received your request to download this document. We will send you the file to your email shortly.
Loading Unlocking...
Login

Join to view Review for Exam 3 and access 3M+ class-specific study document.

or
We will never post anything without your permission.
Don't have an account?
Sign Up

Join to view Review for Exam 3 2 2 and access 3M+ class-specific study document.

or

By creating an account you agree to our Privacy Policy and Terms Of Use

Already a member?