Review for Exam 3Ch. 15 The Edwardian Period and World War IPaul Poiret- Innovative designer who established himself in haute couture- Started at House of Worth then made his own establishment- Influence was so great & captured spirit of the age that he served as a focal point for stylein that time- Claimed to have liberated women from corsets- Known for vivid colors, innovative marketing, & oriental overtonesHobble skirts- Made by Paul Poiret- Hems were so narrow women could hardly move- Straight, narrow, slits at bottom to allow walkingDelphos gown- Mariano Fortuny- Inspired by ancient Greek styles- 1907- Functionality & ease of movement- high quality silkduster- long cotton or linen coat1- worn when driving- cars were open & roads were unpavedlingerie dresses- white, frilly cotton or linen dresses with tucks, ruffles, pleats, & lace- resembled the lingerie of the periodbishop sleeve: sleeves that softly gathered to a wristbandArt Nouveau: jewelry was often made in the art noveau styletailor-made- today would be called a woman’s suit- jackets varied in length from the waist to below the hip- many imitated the cut of men’s jacketstea gowns: soft & less fitted, worn in the late afternoonpompadour: hair built high in front and at the sides around the faceknickers- combination underwear ornamented with lace and embroidery- French style had wide frilled legs- Directoire style was close fittingPeg-top skirts: fullness concentrated at the hip then narrowing gradually to the anklesminaret tunic- Designed by Poiret- Wide tunic, boned to hold out the skirt in a full circle and worn over the narrowest of hobble skirtsPullovers- Knitted sweaters that pulled on over the head2- Had no waist, belted at the hip, had long sleeves- Popular during WWIlounge coat- Sack jackets that became the standard suit jacket for men during the 20th century- Worn for all occasions & appeared for leisure time wear as sport jacketsAscots: ties with wide ends that were worn with one end looped over the other and held in place with a tie pintop coats- Overcoat that ended at the hip- Worn by affluent men who could afford more than 1 overcoatblazer- Worn for tennis, yachting, or other sports- Worn with unmatched trousersCh. 16 The Twenties, Thirties, and World War IIFlapper- Fashionable young women who cut their hair short, the most extreme being almost identical to those of men- Wore rouge, lipstick, & eyebrow pencil- Free from all restraints of the past- Smoked and drank in public, wore shorter skirtsL-85 Regulations- During World War II- Restricted the quantity of cloth that could be used in clothing- Eliminated trouser cuffs, extra pockets, vests with double-breasted suits- Regulating the width of skirt hems and the length of men’s trousers- Limited supplies of nylon, wool, silk, natural rubber, leather (needed for the war effort)Sportswear- Active sports became more widespread, so sports clothing became more important- The move to outdoor recreation established sportswear as a separate categoryhookless fasteners- Made by Gideon Sunback, who improved the zipper- Used in corsets, gloves, sleeping bags, money belts, and tobacco pouchesGabrielle “Coco” Chanel- Began working as a designer before WWI in a small shop where she made casual knit jackets & pullover sweaters- Soon she was having these garments made specially for her own clients- After the war she returned to Paris and set up the most influential salon in Paris3- Credited with making the suntanned look and costume jewelry popular- Designed simple, classic wool jersey styles- Briefly designed for Hollywood films Madeleine Vionnet- Began designing before 1920, retired in 1939- Rejected corsets, padding or stiffening- Designs compared to Greek sculptures- Worked on life models- Slim-firm figures, oose robes- Clients: Isadora Duncan, European nobility- Hollywood royalty: Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn, Gypsy Rose Leebias cut- Elegant, feminine look- Fabric clings- Shows curvesElsa Schiaparelli- known for her dramatic flair and her use of surrealist motifs.- Begins career in Paris in 1930s where she created sweaters in bizarre designs- New York store: 1949- First to:o Use synthetic fabricso Zipper fasteningso Use vivid colors such as hot pink (shocking pink)o Open a boutique offering ready-to-wearhaute couture: firms that create garments that may be sold to private customers or to other segments of the fashion industry who also acquire the right to reproduce the designsMainbocher- American born designer who went to Paris in the 1920s to work as a fashion editor- When the war came he left Paris & went to New York where he continued to practice French coutureClaire McCardell- Studied at Parsons and in Paris- 1st individual collection was for Townley Frocks in 1931 where she designed mainly sportswear and casual clothes- after 1940 she designed under her own name- clothing was considered radical at first and was hard to sell, but women found her designsfit well & were comfortable- credited with making popular: matching separates, dirndl skirts, the monastic ( a bias cut, full tent dress that followed body contours)hardware closings, spaghetti ties, the diaper bathing suit, ballet slippers, and the poncho4Adrian - gained early recognition as a designer for contemporary & period films- in 1941 he opened his own business - work is known for his subtle details- designed “in the round” thinking about how a woman would look from all anglesNorman Norelll- American designer- Worked for Hattie Carnegie, then joined with a fine tailor, Anthony Traina, to form a newfirm. Later went off on his ownPauline Trigere- French, came to America in 1937- Worked for Hattie Carnegie, then formed her own business and showed her 1st collection in 1942, a group of 12 dressesArt Deco- Typical of art produced in the 1920s and 1930s- Geometric forms that could be derived from artistic expressions of the past or present- Includes Egyptian and Mayan motifs as well as other modern art movements- Seen in 1920s fashions, in the geometric lines of many garmentsSurrealism- “beyond the real”- literary and art movement that began in the 1920s and was influenced by Freudianism- dreamlike state- influences are seen in Elsa Schiaparelli’s designspanties- short, buttoned, or elasticized at the waistline, often very decorative- replaced drawers or knickersstep-ins/cami-knickers/teddies: combination of a camisole and pantieshandkerchief skirt: had pleats and gathers placed off