1 Review for Exam 3 Ch 15 The Edwardian Period and World War I Innovative designer who established himself in haute couture Paul Poiret Started at House of Worth then made his own establishment Influence was so great captured spirit of the age that he served as a focal point for style in that time Claimed to have liberated women from corsets Known for vivid colors innovative marketing oriental overtones Hobble skirts Made by Paul Poiret Hems were so narrow women could hardly move Straight narrow slits at bottom to allow walking Delphos gown Inspired by ancient Greek styles 1907 Mariano Fortuny Functionality ease of movement high quality silk duster long cotton or linen coat 2 worn when driving cars were open roads were unpaved lingerie dresses white frilly cotton or linen dresses with tucks ruffles pleats lace resembled the lingerie of the period bishop sleeve sleeves that softly gathered to a wristband Art Nouveau jewelry was often made in the art noveau style tailor made today would be called a woman s suit jackets varied in length from the waist to below the hip many imitated the cut of men s jackets tea gowns soft less fitted worn in the late afternoon pompadour hair built high in front and at the sides around the face combination underwear ornamented with lace and embroidery knickers French style had wide frilled legs Directoire style was close fitting Peg top skirts fullness concentrated at the hip then narrowing gradually to the ankles minaret tunic hobble skirts Designed by Poiret Wide tunic boned to hold out the skirt in a full circle and worn over the narrowest of Pullovers Knitted sweaters that pulled on over the head 3 Had no waist belted at the hip had long sleeves Popular during WWI lounge coat Sack jackets that became the standard suit jacket for men during the 20th century Worn for all occasions appeared for leisure time wear as sport jackets Ascots ties with wide ends that were worn with one end looped over the other and held in place with a tie pin Overcoat that ended at the hip Worn by affluent men who could afford more than 1 overcoat top coats blazer Worn for tennis yachting or other sports Worn with unmatched trousers Ch 16 The Twenties Thirties and World War II Flapper identical to those of men Wore rouge lipstick eyebrow pencil Free from all restraints of the past Smoked and drank in public wore shorter skirts L 85 Regulations Fashionable young women who cut their hair short the most extreme being almost During World War II Restricted the quantity of cloth that could be used in clothing Eliminated trouser cuffs extra pockets vests with double breasted suits Regulating the width of skirt hems and the length of men s trousers Limited supplies of nylon wool silk natural rubber leather needed for the war effort Active sports became more widespread so sports clothing became more important The move to outdoor recreation established sportswear as a separate category Sportswear hookless fasteners Made by Gideon Sunback who improved the zipper Used in corsets gloves sleeping bags money belts and tobacco pouches Gabrielle Coco Chanel jackets pullover sweaters Began working as a designer before WWI in a small shop where she made casual knit Soon she was having these garments made specially for her own clients After the war she returned to Paris and set up the most influential salon in Paris 4 Credited with making the suntanned look and costume jewelry popular Designed simple classic wool jersey styles Briefly designed for Hollywood films Madeleine Vionnet Began designing before 1920 retired in 1939 Rejected corsets padding or stiffening Designs compared to Greek sculptures Worked on life models Slim firm figures oose robes Clients Isadora Duncan European nobility Hollywood royalty Marlene Dietrich Katharine Hepburn Gypsy Rose Lee bias cut Elegant feminine look Fabric clings Shows curves Elsa Schiaparelli known for her dramatic flair and her use of surrealist motifs Begins career in Paris in 1930s where she created sweaters in bizarre designs New York store 1949 First to o Use synthetic fabrics o Zipper fastenings o Use vivid colors such as hot pink shocking pink o Open a boutique offering ready to wear haute couture firms that create garments that may be sold to private customers or to other segments of the fashion industry who also acquire the right to reproduce the designs American born designer who went to Paris in the 1920s to work as a fashion editor When the war came he left Paris went to New York where he continued to practice Mainbocher French couture Claire McCardell Studied at Parsons and in Paris 1st individual collection was for Townley Frocks in 1931 where she designed mainly sportswear and casual clothes after 1940 she designed under her own name clothing was considered radical at first and was hard to sell but women found her designs fit well were comfortable credited with making popular matching separates dirndl skirts the monastic a bias cut full tent dress that followed body contours hardware closings spaghetti ties the diaper bathing suit ballet slippers and the poncho 5 Adrian gained early recognition as a designer for contemporary period films in 1941 he opened his own business work is known for his subtle details designed in the round thinking about how a woman would look from all angles American designer Worked for Hattie Carnegie then joined with a fine tailor Anthony Traina to form a new firm Later went off on his own French came to America in 1937 Worked for Hattie Carnegie then formed her own business and showed her 1st collection in 1942 a group of 12 dresses Typical of art produced in the 1920s and 1930s Geometric forms that could be derived from artistic expressions of the past or present Seen in 1920s fashions in the geometric lines of many garments Includes Egyptian and Mayan motifs as well as other modern art movements beyond the real literary and art movement that began in the 1920s and was influenced by Freudianism dreamlike state influences are seen in Elsa Schiaparelli s designs Norman Norelll Pauline Trigere Art Deco Surrealism panties short buttoned or elasticized at the waistline often very decorative replaced drawers or knickers step ins cami knickers teddies combination of a camisole and panties handkerchief skirt had pleats and gathers placed off center scalloped hems godet inserts and paneled effects ensembles matching dresses and coats or skirts overblouses and coats robe de style Inspired by wide skirted Spanish styles