Renaissance A period of intense artistic and intellectual activity and is said to be the re birth of Greco Roman culture It is usually divided into an Italian Renaissance from roughly the mid fourteenth to mid fifteenth century and a Northern Renaissance 1400 1600 Chapter 7 Italian Renaissance 1400 1600 Guardaroba a set of clothing made up of three garments two layers of indoor clothing and a mantle for outdoors For middle class Italian families regulated by sumptuary laws Camicia an undershirt Italian word for Chemise made of linen little change over the course of the renaissance worn by working men with loosened hose Men 1450 1500 o o o fashionable when visible at edges and openings of outergarments heavy coarse for lower class men lighter softer linen for upper class men length from between waist and hip to above knee Women 1450 1500 worn as an undergarment underneath a dress with a second overdress on top also with just one overdress full length to the floor long sleeves remained the same for two centuries o o o When one layer was visible it either fell straight from the shoulder which opened into full pleats or gather over the bust line generally belted o Women 1500 sometimes cut above neckline of gown embroidered or decorated Ferroniere chain of metal or pearls worn across the forehead with a jewel on forehead Popular for women 15 th century 1450 1500 Chopines typical accessory very high platform soled shoes worn throughout Italy and northern Europe exceptionally high in Venice Codpiece specific part of garment to cover genitals originated because medication for syphilis would stain clothes disappeared in late 1500 s Men 1500 s Was used as storage for little things like handkerchiefs was introduced as joined into hose grew to enormous proportions suggesting syphilis epidemic Doublets Heavy jackets worn by merchants and men waist to knee length quilted and laced up the front with buttons Four seams front both sides back allowed for close fit Might be worn under a jacket Men 1400 1450 Men 1450 1500 worn with hose and were knee length ended from waist to below hip sometimes cut with small skirt at longer lengths distinctive neckline finish appeared collarless at front but had U shape cut out of back with a U curved straight top edge worn by working men and soldiers extremely narrow first decade then unusually wide Men 1500 Houppelandes first mentioned in 1359 constructed from four long pieces that were sewn at sides front and back mid calf version came about in 1400s suite for heavy fabrics A woman s had imaginatively cut sleeves It is an outer garment with full body and flaring sleeves worn by both men and women Originally worn as a man s housecoat but later influenced women s fashion Portrayed as conservative simple and innocent Men 1400 1450 wide funnel shaped or hanging sleeves Women 1400 1450 Beehive popular headdress for women in 1400 1450 look below Turbanlike hat style Italian women s headdress during 1400 1450 Women 1500 Large round beehive shaped Hints contacts with Middle East Also for men 1450 1500 became extremely fashionable Hanging sleeves generally nonfunctional purely decorative attached to jacket arms did not go through Men s costume 1400 1500 o o Jackets with hanging sleeves were worn over doublets Ceremonial robes worn by state officials and lawyers often had hanging sleeves Women s 1450 1500 Mantles cape like Women 1450 1500 worn outdoors both opened and closed often lined in contrasting fabrics and sometimes matched dress Decorative slashing change for men and women in 1500 s French and Spanish influence A cut in the fabric through which an under layer of the contrasting colored fabric might be pulled especially popular during the Renaissance Periods Caterina Sforza ruled and defended the town of Forli against the assassins of her husband an exception to the rule of men making up the ruling class existed outside of the general social framework of the Renaissance The Doge highest official in Venice wore a long traditional robe with wide sleeves the wider the sleeve the more important the rank Hukes placed over doublets Token head cover Italian women wore this small jeweled net set at t he back of the head or a sheer small veil Ottoman Turks conquerors of the Byzantine Empire in 1453 military threat to Austria treaties were made with Italians French and later the English Important style that originated from the Turks was the turban like hat style Venetian influence Regional difference from other city states in Italy especially those under Florentine rule Women 1400 1500 Women 1500 1600 Men 1400 1500 normal waistlines in back with deep U in front twin horns in front chopines grew taller gowns had waistline just below boobs fabrics were less heavy and rigid exceptionall high Chopines light blonde bleached hair underdrawers still worn Men 1500 1600 Venetian Officials sleeve the more important the rank headdress looked like Phrygian bonnet with a point at the back that was stiff and rigid influence of Spanish and french worn by DOGEs and hereditary ruling class of nobles traditional long robe with wide sleeves the wider the normal waistlines or slightly below at back V shaped in front long outer tunics preferred over jackets jackets were CHAPTER 8 The Northern Renaissance 1500 1600 Ropa Spanish origin outer gown or surcote either sleeveless or different types of sleeves fell from shoulders unbelted Aline to the floor most were open to display dress underneath Stomacher a filler of contrasting color fabric inserted under the V cut in the front of doublets paltocks Men 1500 1515 Separate ones could be tied or pinned to the front for a varied appearance Jerkin word meaning jacket in England Men 1500 1515 sometimes worn over doublets and cut the same length Men 1515 1550 Slashings narrow strips of fabric under which contrasting linings were placed said to have originated from a ragged but victorious swiss army that stuffed the colorful silk fabrics they had looted under their clothes for warmth Filet or lacis artisan embroidered patterns on a net background considered to have been the forerunners of lace Panes narrow strips of fabric under which contrasting linings were placed worn over trunk hose and attached at waist and hem popular during the Renaissance Breeches Bases and hose were divided into two parts upper and nether stocks and were usually sewn together the upper stock was also called breeches eventually appeared as separate garment and were cut somewhat