FSU CTE 3512 - Chapter: The Crinoline Period

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Chp. 13 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1869Crinoline PeriodIncreasing width of skirts led to use of more and more petticoats, making skirts heavy and stiff; hoop skirts were revivedNamed after the cage crinoline, a device for holding out women’s skirtsWomen’s rights advocates were pushing for dress reform and abolishing slaveryDuring the civil war: 1861-1865Sewing machines boomedCharles Worth: founder of French couture, interchangeable parts for clothingLevi’sGold rush in California in 1848, miners needed sturdy clothingOriginated when Levi Strauss took a supply of heavy duty canvas to San Francisco in 1850 to sell to miners for tentsMiners complained that their work pants were not holding up in the conditions, so Levi Strauss hired a tailor to make sturdy clothing with his canvasThey were a success; the next batch he used sturdier fabric-denim- and dyed them blue with indigoTurkish trousersan early attempt at women’s dress reformadopted by Elizabeth Smith Miller who saw them at health sanitariums in Europe, women wore short skirts over themhad full legs that were gathered to fit tightly at the ankleBloomersThe bloomer costume consisted of a pair of full trousers (Turkish) gathered in at the ankle with a knee length skirt over itFew people took up the style, much ridiculeOne lady, Amelia Bloomer, took up the style too. It was later named after her.The cut of the trousers retained the name bloomer, and the women’s undergarments that had the similar cut were nicknamed after them.Used in sports and swimwear mainlyCrinoline cage made skirts lighter and better, so bloomer dress faded awayEmpress EugenieA Spanish countess who married Louis Napolean III (Napolean’s nephew) in 1853Worn designs made by Charles WorthKnown for dressing extravagantly in public, even though she did not care about fashion and was reluctant to adopt new stylesAt home, she wore a black dressFollowed fashion, was not a fashion setterWrote that she was “obliged to have 20 dresses a day”Women 1850-1870:CamisoleAlso called corset cover, because it was placed over the corsetWaist length, shaped to the figure, had short sleeves, buttoned down the frontCorsetsAn undergarment worn over the chemise but under the camisoleLess whalebone was used now; shaped with gores of fabric and inset gussets of elasticWith introduction of crinolines, corsets shortenedWhen crinolines became smaller, corsets became tighterNo longer called “stays”Also worn by menBasquesAn extension of the bodice below the waist; looks like a tiny skirtSome extended 6 inches below waist and were even all the way around; others were short in front and low in backEngageantesFrench term for the removable lace or muslin undersleeves worn with open sleevesPagoda sleevesSleeves that were narrow at the shoulder and expanded abruptly to a wide mouth at the endSometimes shorter in front and longer in backUsually worn over an engageante or false undersleeveGaribaldiA red cotton blouse named after General Giuseppe Garibaldi that was popular in the 1860sThe general and his soldiers wore something very similar as uniform in the military campaign to unite ItalyPrincess dressA new, one piece style that was cut without a waistline seam.Long, gored sections extended from the shoulder to the floor and were shaped to fit at the waist through the curved cut of the sectionsSnoodA net that hair was usually worn in during the dayMade of colored silk or chenilleMen 1850-1870ReefersAlso called Pea JacketsLoose, double-breasted jackets with side vents and small collarsAlso worn as overcoatsKnickerbockersSportswear garment in the 1850sCut with loose legs and belted into a band that buckled just below the kneeName later shortened to KnickersFrock overcoatOutdoor garment cut along the same lines as a frock coat, but longerCutaway coatEnglish term for a morning coat, new market coats, or riding coatsA single-breasted coat, waist seam, curves away gradually from the waist, into a pair of tails behind that are rounded off, topped by two ornamental buttons on the waist seamTail coatAlso called dress coatsCut with a short, square “cut in” in front and tails at the back1850s: worn for both day and for evening formal occasions1860s: strictly evening dressInverness capeOutdoor garment; large, loose overcoat with full sleeves and a cape ending at wrist lengthThink Sherlock HolmesRaglan capeA full overcoat where the setting of the sleeve was joined in a diagonal hole seam running from under the arm to the necklineSewing machineIsaac Singer developed the first successful domestic sewing machines to be manufactured on a production-line basis using interchangeable partsCrucial for making ready-to-wear clothing for soldiersContributed to the fashions of ready-made women’s cloaks and hoopskirtsReady-to-wear industrySewing machine was very important to supply the growing American population with ready-to-wear clothing after the warFirst items to be mass-produced: men’s shirts, aprons, and calico dressesThen came men’s and boys’ suits and overcoatsTuxedoA dress version of the sack suit jacketIntroduced in the 1880s, named after where it originated- Tuxedo, New YorkAlso called dinner jacket in EnglandBowlerAlso called a Derby HatHad a hard, round crown and a small brim, slightly turned up on sidesChp. 14 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900Bustle Period: (1870-1890)Got its name from the device that provided the shaping for a skirt silhouette with marked back fullnessBustle: padded cushion-like devices, hoop frames, rigid shelf-like structure, drapery manipulation1870-1878: the earliest bustles were created by manipulating the skirt in a waterfall-like effect, often with a train1878-1873: called a sheath or cuirass bodice, the second bustle type dropped fullness to below the hip at the back of the knee1883-1890: The final bustle was rigid and shelf-like and rarely had a trainIn the 1890s, skirts lost back fullness, and sleeves grew larger (usually “leg of mutton” sleeves), skirts more circular, and an hour-glass shape silhouette became fashionable1890s called “The Gay Nineties” because the western world was emerging from the serous, moralistic tone of the Victorian EraWomen were entering workforce, participating in sports, bicyclingPre-Raphaelite, Aesthetic, and Art Nouveau movements were reflected in dressRationalsThe English term for a bifurcated garment, a sort of full knicker, that was created as a practical costume for women cyclists, in the


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