CTE 3512 Exam 1 Review Naomi Elizee Chapter 7: The Italian Renaissance 1400-1600 Renaissance • A period of intense artistic and intellectual activity and is said to be the “re-birth” of Greco-Roman culture. It is usually divided into an Italian Renaissance, from roughly the mid-fourteenth to mid-fifteenth century, and a Northern Renaissance 1400-1600. Guardaroba • A set of clothing made up of three garments: o 1. Two layers of indoor clothing o 2. Mantle for outdoors Camicia • Italian Chemise (women) or Italian undershirt (men) Ferroniere • A chain or brand of metal or pearls worn across the forehead with a jeweled decoration located over the center of the forehead • Popular during the late 15th century for women Chopines • High platform-soled shoes, worn throughout Italy and northern Europe • Worn especially high in Venice Codpiece • During the 15th-16th century, this was a pouch of fabric sewn into the crotch of men’s tight-fitting breeches. • Tied shut with laces • Thought to be created due to the epidemic of syphilis and was also used as storage for little things such as handkerchiefs. • Went our of use by the 17th century Doublets • Heavy jackets worn by merchants and men. Ended anywhere from the waist to below the hip, four seams and often had a distinctive neckline. Houppelandes • Woman’s had imaginatively cut sleeves. It is an outer garment with full body and flaring sleeves worn by both men and women. • Originally worn as a man’s housecoat but later influenced women’s fashion. • Portrayed as conservative, simple and innocent. Beehive • A term used to describe the shape of a hat or hairstyle Turbanlike hat style • A large round beehive shaved hat Hanging sleeves • Generally Non-Functional • Purely decorative and attached to the jacket by lacing them to the arm holeMantles • Worn outdoors either opened or closed • Loose, sleeveless cloak • Like a cape fastened to the dress at the shoulder Decorative slashing • A cut in the fabric through which an under layer of the contrasting colored fabric might be pulled especially popular during the Renaissance Periods. Venetian influence • Waistlines below the waistline • High platformed shoes • Bleached hair • By the end of the 16th century they would have a normal waistline in the back and have a U-shaped waistline in the front Ch. 8: The Northern Renaissance 1500-1600 Ropa • A garment of Spanish origin from the 16th century • Outer gown or surcote made either sleeveless or with one of the following types of sleeve o A short puffed sleeve o Long sleeve puffed at the top o Fitted for the rest of the arm’s length o Possibly derived from Middle Eastern Styles Drawers • A 16th century English term for undergarment that evolved from the braies or breeches Stomacher • First used in men’s doublets in the 16th century (also called a patlock in England), later with women’s corsets and dresses • A garment was cut with a deep V at the front and a filler of contrasting color was inserted under the V, extending to the waist or beyond • Separate ones could be tied or pinned to the front for a varied appearance. Jerkin • In England after 1500, this term was used synonymously with jacket Panes • Garments ornamented with narrow strips of fabric • Contrasting linings were placed • Popular during the Renaissance Breeches • General term referring to any of a variety of garments worn by men to cover the lower part of the body • First appeared in the Middle Ages Trunk hose • Breeches worn by men in the mid-16th century that were joined to nether socks • Ranged in size from very wide and padded to very small and worn with tight fitting hose Ruff• Wide, separate collar used during the second half of the 16th century and the first decades of the 17th century • Often made of lace and stiffly starched Peascod belly • Pronounced from the double • Popular by 1570 • Resembled the puffed-out chest of a peacock Venetians • Skintight version of breeches from the late 16th century • Wide at the top and tapering at the knee Slops • Style of trunk hose that sloped gradually from a narrow waist to fullness concentrated about mid-thigh (where they ended) • Used from the 16th to 19th century Culots • A type of trunk hose worn by men during the late 16th century • Not much more than a pad around the hips with very tight fitting hose Bombast • Stuffing made of wool, horsehair, short linen fibers called tow, or bran • Used to pad trunk hose and doublets Canions • Extensions from the end of the trunk hose to the knees or slightly below, made in either the same color as the trunk hose or a color contrasting with the trunk hose. • Fastened to separate stockings at the bottom • Used by men in the late 16th century Stays • English term for “corset” Petticoat • In the 16th century, an underskirt worn with an over dress that created an overall silhouette like an hourglass • In later periods, an underskirt that was sometimes an invisible undergarment and sometimes visible garment Verdugale • Farthingale • A hoop or framework worn under skirts to shape and spread them • Popular in the 16th and 17th century Spanish farthingale • Garment constructed of whalebone, cane or steel hoops graduated in size from the waist to the floor and sewn into a petticoat or underskirt that provided support to the flared, cone-shaped skirt • First appeared in the mid-16th century (called the verdugale) Bum rolls • Padded roll placed around the waist in order to give skirts greater width below the waist, popular in the late 16th century. French farthingale • Women’s undergarment used for shaping floor-length dresses• Steel or cane spokes of the same diameter were fastened from a topmost hoop at the waistband down • AKA wheel or drum Supportasse • Frame that supported ruffs of enormous widths during the 16th century the 16th century Medici collars • Open ruffs, almost a cross between a collar and a ruff, stood behind the head and fastened in from into a wide, square neckline • Named for the 16th century Medici queens of France, Catherine and Marie, during whose reigns this style was popular. Conch • Sheer, gauzelike veil worn by women in the late 16th century • Cut the full length of the body form shoulder to floor and worn cape-like