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1Review for Exam 3CTE 3512 History of Dress (Fall 2012)* 32 Multiple Choices and True/False Questions (1.5 points x 32 = 48 points) + 32 Matching Questions (1 point x 32 = 32 points) = 80 pointsCh. 15 The Edwardian Period and World War IEdwardian styles with emphasis on S-shaped silhouette 1900-1909Empire revival and hobble skirt 1909-19141914-1918 WWI1918-1919 Postwar stylesPaul Poiret: Young French designer, left House of Worth after Jean Phillipe didn’t approve. His work captures focal point of style from 1903 to WWI in Paris couture. Did away with corsets uses vivid colors and creator of hobble skirts. First to market perfume.Hobble skirts: Created by Paul Poiret. Skirt with such narrow hems that women could hardly move. Breasts fee but leg shackled. Worn with long tunic was very popularDelphos gown: Created by Spanish designer, Fortuny, who was popular from 1906 to 1949. Designed Delphos gown in 1907, which were inspired from ancient Greek styles, was his most famous design. PLEATED. Designer Fortuny was inspired by Renaissance and Oriental designs. Oriental MAJOR in this period. Duster: Long coat worn for driving cars so dirt wasn’t kicked up on you. Usually cotton or linen and long, shown in book as tan and long. Lingerie dresses: Dresses of the time were S-shaped with frilly and very decorated with soft fabrics. The lingerie dresses were a popular white frilly cotton or linen dress with decorations like tucking, pleating, lace inserts, bands of fabric, lace and embroidery. Resembled lingerie of the period. Frilly ruffles, jabots, on front of neck.Bishop sleeve: Gathered at armhole and full below the elbow with fabric puffed or pouched at the wrist. Art Nouveau: Style of art, architecture and applied art—especially the decorative arts—that was most popular during 1890–1910Tailor-made: Today called a “Women’s suit”. Jackets varied in length ending from either hips to below the waist. Many imitated cut of men’s jackets. Blouses (shirtwaists) were separate.2Tea gowns: Soft less fitted gowns worn in late afternoon by more wealthy women. Gowns created by Fortuny were often worn as tea gowns. Pompadour: Hair style from 1900- with hair built high in front and at sides around the face. Knickers: “drawers”. In 1909-1914 most women wore combination underwear like a brassiere ornamented with lace and embroidery rather than drawers “knickers” and a chemise. This was because of the more narrow silhouette after 1909 which required princess line petticoats. Dresses replaced with a straighter line and women now show their necks.Peg-top skirts: Skirts (still narrow circumference) with fullness concentrated at the hip then narrowing gradually to ankles. Worn with long tunic. Minaret tunic: Designed by Paul Poiret, was a wide tunic boned to hold out the skirt in a full circle and worn over the narrowest of hobble skirts. Pullovers: Knitted sweaters that were pulled over the head, became popular in 1915. Had no discernable waist, belted at hip, and had long sleeves. Usually attributed to Coco Chanel in WWI. Also during wartime (1914-1918) tailored suits became more popular and one piece dresses preferred over two piece, skirts shorter with kind of wider skirts. After the end of the war, skirts were narrow again and hemlines went back down to the ankle. Sport jackets: (Casual jackets). Sack jackets became standard suit for men in 20th century even for leisure. American tailors called these coats sack jackets and the British preferred the term lounge coat. Basically just men’s hip length coat, most outer part of suit.Ascots: Necktie variation which were ties with wide ends that were worn with one end looped over the other and held in place with a tie pin (Scott Disick) Top coats: Ended at the hip. Worn by affluent men who could afford more than one overcoat. Blazer: Ascendants of the modern sport jacket, worn with unmatched trousers for tennis, yachting, or other sports.3Jodhpurs: A pair of trousers fitted closely around the lower leg and flaring out above the knee. Originated in India where they were adopted by the British colonials and spread through West. Worn for horse riding with a jacket with flared skirt. Ch. 16 The Twenties, Thirties, and World War IIFlapper: Until WWI, there were certain standards of behavior for women to not drink, smoke, or kiss boys unless intend to marry. By the 1920’s all this changed and the “flapper” was a women free from all restraints of the past that smoked, drank and wore skirts revealing legs with flesh colored stockings, and lipstick. Paralleled changing social roles of women after the war. L-85 Regulations: Guidelines during WW2 (1941-1945) that restricted the quantity of cloth that could be used in clothing because of the shortage of many fabrics. They saved fabric by eliminating trouser cuffs, extra pockets, vests with double breasted suites and regulating width of skirt hems. Used more Rayon during this time, wool was scarce. Most women entered workforce at this time because the men were drafted for war and it required special clothes for active physical labor. Shortage of fabrics for stockings led to women to paint legs with makeup. Leather shoes rationed> 2 new pairs a year during war. Decreased max lengths for jackets and trouser inseams, eliminated waistcoats and double breasted suits, cuffs, pleats in trousers and overlapping waitsbands.Sportswear: Attendance at sporting events in 1920’s broke all records. Interest in watching sports had side effect of greater interest in participating in sports, making sports clothing more important. The need for practical, casual dress established sportswear as a separate clothing category in 1920s. Became popular by rich first for tennis, riding, and skiing sportswear as well as recreational use of car. Hookless fasteners: Eventually renamed the zipper. Whitcomb Judson invented hookless fastner in 1891, didn’t work well then Gideion Sundback fixed it and used them for corsets, gloves, sleeping bags, money belts, and tobacco pouches. BF Goodrich bought “hookless fasteners” for rubber boots and used the term “Zipper boots”> Word Zipper TM in 1925. Eventually very widely used and popular when English Prince of Whales wore zippered trousers to zip fly area. Charles James first major designer to use zipper as decorative element in 1933 and took off. By early 1940’s zipper used as basic closure for all clothing of different price ranges. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel:

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