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! 1Review for Exam 3 CTE 3512 History of Dress (Spring 2014) !* 32 Multiple Choices and True/False Questions (1.5 points x 32 = 48 points) + 32 Matching Questions (1 point x 32 = 32 points) = 80 points!!Ch. 15 The Edwardian Period and World War I!Paul Poiret- (1877-1944) credited with making narrow “Hobble” skirts popular, was a major influence on fashion. Bra- Claimed to have liberated women from corsets • Vivid colors • Innovative marketing • Oriental overtones Hobble skirts- Straight, Narrow, Slits at bottom to allow walking. !Delphos gown- 1907Inspire from ancient Greece. High quality silk, functionality and ease of movement. duster- motoring coats lingerie dresses- Childrens (Girls): lingerie dresses, with waistline low on hip, knee length !bishop sleeve- Sleeves often softly gathered to a wristband Art Nouveau- tailor-made- Ready to wear tea gowns- frilly lingerie pompadour- false hair piece knickers- sportswear and children's •French style had wide frilled legs •Directoire style was close fitting Peg-top skirts-Full at hip, Narrowing to ankles, Tunics and underskirts minaret tunic pullovers- knitted sweaters; Pullovers become popular after 1915 lounge coat ascots- Scarf looking, Narrow band top coats- mens outerwear blazer-mens sportswear !!Ch. 16 The Twenties, Thirties, and World War II !Flapper- Fashionable women cut their hair short, with the most extreme bobs being identical to men, wore rouge, lipstick, and eyebrow pencil. L-85 Regulations- Restricted the quantity of cloth that could be used in clothing during the war! 2Sportswear- worn for leisure time but not dedicated to one particular sport, refers to clothing for men and women that is worn for leisure time or informal situations hookless fasteners- a form of a zipper used in corsets, gloves, sleeping bags, money belts, and tobacco pouches !Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel- Born outside Paris(1883 – 1971) 1912: Opened her first millinery shop 1920: her designs had become the epitome of 20’s style. Designs for the “Corset-free Gal who lived for pleasure, self-invention, and independence.” Known for using wool jersey in the 1920’s 1954: Surprises fashion industry by coming out of retirement Influential in developing the simple styles of the period. Madeleine Vionnet- bias cut-Elegant, feminine look, Fabric clings, Shows curves. a technique for cutting clothing to utilize the diagonal direction of the cloth, which has greater stretch and drapes in such a way that the body lines and curves are accentuated Elsa Schiaparelli- Rome, 1890, Begins career in Paris: 1930s New York store: 1949 Known for being bizarre, theatrical. First to: -Use synthetic fabrics -Zipper fastenings -Use vivid colors such as hot pink. -Open a boutique offering ready-to-wear haute couture- firms that create garments that may be sold to private customers or to other segments of the fashion industry who also acquire the right to reproduce the designs Mainbocher- American designer who went to Paris in the 1920s to work as a fashion editor, opened up his own couture house Claire McCardell- American designer, clothing considered radical at first but women found her clothes fit well and were comfortable, credited with matching separates Adrian- started as a costume designer for film, synonymous with high fashion and glamour, known for subtle details Norman Norelll- worked for Hattie Carnegie, joined a fine tailer, Anthony Traina, then went off on his own Pauline Trigere- worked for Hattie Carnegie, form her own business and showed her own collection in 1942 of 12 dresses Art Deco- Geometric forms Surrealism- Dreamlike state, No planning, Dadaism panties- drawers or knickers step-ins- under garments that maintain straight lines. A combination of camisole and panties. teddies- under garments that maintain straight lines. step-ins handkerchief skirt- paneled effects that achieved this look ensembles- matching dresses and coats, or skirts, overblouses, and coats robe de style- Jeanne Lanvin, evening dress with a dropped waistline and full skirt! 3!clutch coats- women’s coats. had to be held shut because they had no fastening bobbed- to have one’s hair cut shingle- exceptionally short cut in which the back hair was cut and tapered like that of a man eton crop- a style in which hair was exceptionally closely cropped and dress like that of the men. Panty Briefs – Briefs Replaced “Drawers” Panties grew shorter to fit under active sport wear: Changed the term to panty briefs, then briefs Buttoned or with elastic at waist Eisenhower jackets- based on military jackets that were slightly bloused above the waist and gathered to a fitted belt at the waist sloppy joes- Loose pullovers - Adolescent women !dirndl skirts-popular about 1945. full and gathered page-boy bob- straight hair turned under at the ends feather cut-Curly, short hairstyle. slacks-become a well-established sportswear item in the 1930s. women’s garments like that of men’s trousers for casual wear. Lastex- used to make bathing suits. a fabric made from yarns with a rubber core covered by another fiber, used in making bathing suits that had stretch and were more form fitting and wrinkle free. boxer shorts- undergarments introduced in 1930s. inspired by professional boxers. Jockey shorts- undergarments. knitted briefs. Oxford bags- trousers with exceptionally wide legs that could be slipped on over the knickers English drape suit-War time restrictions modified the English drape cut - Maximum lengths for jackets & trouser inseams in each size - Eliminated waistcoats with double-breasted suits, cuffs, pleats in trousers, overlapping waistbands !Windsor- spread collars worn with the wide Windsor tie knot zoot suit- an extreme form of the sack suit, jacket was long with wide shoulders and long, wide lapels, trousers were markedly pegged Early 1940s, then eliminated during wartime •High waist pants •Broad shoulders •Wide lapels •Suspenders •Large bow tie •Watch chain !Polo coats- made of tan camel’s hair, worn by a British polo team playing exhibition matches in the US, the style swept the US into the 1930s. outdoors coat.! 4English guards’ coat- dark blue coat with wide lapels and an inverted pleat in the back and a half belt Zip-in linings- made cold-weather coats convertible to use in warmer temperatures mackinaws- sturdy jackets made of heavily fulled wool pea jackets- military influence: American sailors, boxy, double breasted, dark.

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