CTE3512 Exam 3 Study Guide Chapter 15 The Edwardian Period and WWI Paul Poiret o Established himself as one of the fashion leaders in the haute couture along with Mariano Fortuny o Worked at the House of Worth for Gaston and Jean Philippe but left when they started arguing about his potential o A few years after leaving he opened his own place o He was described in the book at not only an outstanding designer but also a colorful character whose personality idiosyncrasies help to perpetuate his legend o Between 1903 and WWI he changed the way people dressed o He got rid of corsets and made dresses that were loose but with a hobble skirt o Introduced the harem skirt o I freed the bosom shackled the legs but gave liberty to the body Poiret o Used lots of vivid colors that inspired the costumes of the Russian Ballet and the ones designed by Leon Bakst o He designed costumes for Le Minaret and from this tunics and hobbles skirts o Was the first of the couturiers to market perfume named it after his became the new trend daughter o Was also known for dresses with the lampshade effect o After WWI his business went downhill and he died in 1943 o Had hems so narrow women could barley move o Some were so tight a slit had to be made at the bottom so women could walk Hobble Skirts Delphos Gown o The most famous designs of Fortuny o Inspired by ancient Greek styles o Pleating Duster o Worn by drivers of automobiles o A long coat looks like a trench coat o Was used to cover the peoples clothes when in a car since they were open and dirt would be kicked up o Usually was a tan color so the dirt wouldn t show as much Lingerie Dresses embroidery Bishop Sleeve o Popular white frilly cotton or linen dresses o Had tucking pleating lace insertions bands of applied fabric lace and o Were named this because it resembled women s undergarments o Gathered in the armhole and full below the elbow with fabric puffed or pouched at the wrist o More common in the first half of the decade Art Nouveau o An attempt of artists and artisans to create a style with no roots in earlier artistic forms o Emphasized sinuous curved lines contorted and stylized forms from nature and a constant sense of movement o Was seen as a revolt during the Victorian Era o Formed a bridge of styles of the 19th century to those of the 20th century o Jewelry was often made in this style Tailor made o Today this would be called a women s suit o Jackets varied in length waist to hip o Shorter ones were fitted o May of them imitated the cut of men s jackets Tea Gowns o Less fitted than tailor made o Worn by women in the late afternoon o Designed by Fortuny Pompadour Knickers o Hairstyle o Hair built high in the front and at the sides od the face o Combination underwear worn by women instead of drawers o Decorated with lace and embroidery o Popular skirt fullness concentrated at the hip and gradually became more Peg top Skirts narrow to the ankles Minaret Tunic o Designed by Poiret o A wide tunic that was boned to hold the skirt out in a full circle o Worn over the narrowest hobble skirts Pullovers o Knitted sweaters that were pulled on over the head o Became popular after 1915 o Had not defined waist were belted at the hip and had long sleeves o Chanel given credit for being the first to interest people in these Lounge Coat o British called it lounge coat Americans called it sack jackets o Became the standard suit for men in the 20th century o Worn for all occasions even leisure times Ascots Top Coats Blazer o Necktie o Ties made with wide ends that were worn with one end looped over the other and held in place with a tie pin o Outdoor garment ended at the hip o Worn by wealthy men who could generally afford more than one o Worn for tennis yachting or other sports o Antecedents of the modern day sport jacket Chapter 16 The 20 s 30 s and WWII Flapper o Woman who behaved against the expected behavior of women o Free from all the restraints of the past o These women smoked drank hooked up in cars went out dancing an even looed different than women were supposed to o Short dresses as well as hair colored lipstick L 85 Regulations o Guidelines that restricted the amount of cloth that could be used in clothing o During WWII scarce good were rationed o Cut out trouser cuffs extra pockets vests with double breasted suits and regulated skirt hems and the length of men s trousers and suit jackets Sportswear o Was established to expand outdoor recreation o Practical causal Hookless Fasteners o Designed by Gideon Sundback o Used in corsets gloves sleeping bags money belts and tobacco pouches o Later became known as the zipper Gabrielle Coco Chanel o Started working as a designer before WWI o Had a small shop at Deauville where she made casual knit jackets and o Comfortable practical clothes o After the war opened a salon that was one of the most influential in Paris o Made the suntanned look and jewelry popular o Her real genius lay in designing simple classic wool jersey styles o Spent some time designing for films dressed the stars in the most elaborate pullovers clothes o Was a leading designer through the 30 s closed her shop during WWII o Came out of retirement in 1954 Madeleine Vionnet o Worked as an apprentice in a dress makers shop when she was 13 o Worked at the house of Callot Soeurs and then for Doucet o Plain unadorned but well cut designs o Set up her own shop before WWI o Didn t become successful until after the war House of Vionnet became part of haute couture o Distinctive talent was the cutting of dress originated the bias cut o Has been compared to an architect or sculptor o Retired in 1939 Bias Cut o Technique for cutting clothing to utilize the diagonal direction of the cloth o Especially fashionable in the 1930 s o Italian designer worked in Paris in the 1930 s began by creating sweaters Elsa Schiaparelli in bizarre designer o By the end of the 1930 s she was a very popular designer o Emphasis on color and unusual decorative effects o Credited with being one of the first to use zippers put them on pockets and o Made the first evening dress with matching jacket skirts with matching in dresses sweaters o Came to the United states when the war broke out Haute Couture o Firms that create garments that may be sold to private customers or to other segments of the fashion industry who also acquire the right to reproduce the designs o French haute couturiers were sold to private customers …