Chapter 7 Italian Renaissance 1400 1600 Renaissance rebirth Guardaroba a set of clothing made up of three garments two layers of indoor clothing and a mantle for outdoors For middle class Italian families regulated by sumptuary laws Camicia an undershirt Italian word for Chemise made of linen worn by working men with loosened hose Men 1450 1500 little change over the course of the renaissance outergarments upper class men o fashionable when visible at edges and openings of o heavy coarse for lower class men lighter softer linen for o length from between waist and hip to above knee dress with a second overdress on top also with just one overdress worn as an undergarment underneath a Women 1450 1500 o full length to the floor long sleeves o remained the same for two centuries o When one layer was visible it either fell straight from the shoulder which opened into full pleats or gather over the bust line generally belted embroidered or decorated o Women 1500 sometimes cut above neckline of gown Ferroniere chain of metal or pearls worn across the forehead with a jewel on forehead Women 1450 1500 Chopines typical accessory very high platform soled shoes worn throughout Italy and northern Europe exceptionally high in Venice Codpiece specific part of garment to cover genitals originated because medication for syphilis would stain clothes disappeared in late 1500 s enormous proportions suggesting syphilis epidemic was introduced as joined into hose grew to Men 1500 s Doublets waist to knee length quilted and laced up the front with buttons worn with hose and were knee length ended from waist to below hip sometimes Four seams front both sides back allowed for close fit Might be worn under a jacket Men 1400 1450 Men 1450 1500 cut with small skirt at longer lengths distinctive neckline finish appeared collarless at front but had U shape cut out of back with a U curved straight top edge worn by working men and soldiers extremely narrow first decade then unusually wide Men 1500 Houppelandes first mentioned in 1359 constructed from four long pieces that were sewn at sides front and back mid calf version came about in 1400s suite for heavy fabrics Men 1400 1450 wide funnel shaped or hanging sleeves Women 1400 1450 Beehive popular headdress for women in 1400 1450 look below Turbanlike hat style Italian women s headdress during 1400 1450 Large round beehive shaped Hints contacts with Middle East Also for men 1450 1500 Women 1500 became extremely fashionable Hanging sleeves generally nonfunctional purely decorative attached to jacket arms did not go through Men s costume 1400 1500 o Jackets with hanging sleeves were worn over doublets o Ceremonial robes worn by state officials and lawyers often had hanging sleeves Women s 1450 1500 Mantles cape like Women 1450 1500 often lined in contrasting fabrics and sometimes matched dress worn outdoors both opened and closed Decorative slashing change for men and women in 1500 s French and Spanish influence sometimes had puffs of contrasting fabric pulled through the slits Venetian influence Regional difference from other city states in Italy especially those under Florentine rule Women 1400 1500 Women 1500 1600 Men 1400 1500 gowns had waistline just below boobs fabrics were less heavy and rigid exceptionall high Chopines light blonde bleached hair underdrawers normal waistlines in back with deep U in front twin horns in front chopines grew taller normal waistlines or slightly below at back V shaped in front long outer tunics preferred over jackets jackets were still worn of nobles traditional long robe with wide sleeves the wider the sleeve the more important the rank headdress looked like Phrygian bonnet with a point at the back that was stiff and rigid worn by DOGEs and hereditary ruling class influence of Spanish and french Men 1500 1600 Venetian Officials The Italian Renaissance 1450 1500 Garments pp 187 192 Hair Headdress pp 189 192 Jewelry p 192 Medium to longer lengths older men cut their hair shorter Men are generally clean shaven Variety of hat styles turban like styles pillbox styles and hats with soft crowns and upturned brims or round crowns and narrow brims Footwear pp 189 192 Pointed toes begin to round off by the end of the century Most popular footwear leather soled footed hose Boots worn in bad weather or for riding have turned down cuffs end mid calf MEN WOMEN Camicia Shirt worn visible at the openings of outermost garments sleeves and body cut in one piece with gussets Doublets and jackets with distinctive necklines Hose made from woven fabrics laces untied for physical activity Decorative hanging sleeves Full length ceremonial robes Fur trimmed open and closed capes for warmth Chemise camicia worn as an undergarment beneath a dress with a second overdress on top Lavish use of opulent fabric for upper class women At mid century rounded necklines cut high lower necklines by end of century Sleeve styles similar to men s Open and closed Elaborate arrangements of buns braids loops and curls very different from style of northern European women who cover their heads Token head covers Rarely seen in paintings women s shoes appear to be cut along the same lines as those of men Necklaces earrings brooches and many interesting hair ornaments Ferroniere mantles or capes The Italian Renaissance 16th Century Garments pp 187 192 Hair Headdress pp 189 192 MEN French and Spanish influence by mid century Men begin to wear beards again Camicia with embroidered necklines Narrow silhouettes Large codpieces c 1500 Codpieces disappear by latter part of the century Camicia sometimes cut high Silhouttes of dresses grow wider and fuller Spanish influenced dresses with V shaped waists gain popularity as the century progresses CHILDREN p 197 Once out of swaddling clothes adult like dress Venetian Costume pp 195 197 Anatomical waistlines Mobility wear special distinctive costumes Hair arranged at the front in little twin horns Hair bleached to light blond shades Underdrawers WOMEN Turbans Distinctly high chopines Chp 8 The Northern Renaissance 1500 1600 Ropa Spanish origin outer gown or surcote either sleeveless or different types of sleeves fell from shoulders unbelted Aline to the floor most were open to display dress underneath Stomacher a filler of contrasting color fabric inserted under the V cut in the front of doublets paltocks Men 1500 1515 Jerkin word meaning jacket in England Men 1500 1515 sometimes worn over doublets and cut the Men 1515 1550 same length