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Review for Exam 2CTE 3512 History of Dress (Spring 2014)* 30 Multiple Choices and True/False Questions (1.5 points x 30 = 45 points) + 20 Matching Questions (1 point x 20 = 20 points) = 65 pointsPart V The Nineteenth Century: 1800-1900Holoku- A dress made for Queen Dowager Kalakua that was full length with a loose fit that fell from a yoke, had a high neck, and long sleeves. The style is considered tradi-tional Hawaiian dress.Mu’umu’u- Hawaiian version of the chemise. Meaning “cut-off” Women wore them for swimming and sleeping.Impressionist- Painters that often displayed Japanese kimonos in their work. They were inspired by Japanese woodblock prints.Dress reform- Attempts to change apparel for women in 1851 and 1854 by the suffrag-ists.Bloomer costume- The costume the dress re-form was leaning towards. Where a short full dress was worn over trousers. Named af-ter Amelia Bloomer and adopted by Susan BAnthony and Lucy Stone. It was not a suc-cess.Rational-artistic dress- Appropriate dress on the artistic ideal.Arts and Crafts movement- Aesthetic or artistic dress with looser fit, diminished draperies, and less restrictive corseting for a more healthful instead of fashionable ap-proach.Ch 11 The Directoire Period and the Empire Period: 1790-1820Kashmir shawls- made from soft hair of the cashmere goat, woven in Kashmir, a north-ern province on the Indian subcontinent. Wore mainly by Indian men.Paisley shawls- Produced in the Scottish town of Paisley, the traditional palm design took the shape of a pine cone and was so widely known that it became known as Pais-ley. Native American influence- Designs that were practical for the climate and geographywere adapted from Native American influ-ence into Western dress.Directoire Period- “Directory” 1790-1800, 5 man executive governmentEmpire Period- The period in which Napoleon Bonaparte was head of state in France. Bonnet rouge- The red cap of liberty, sym-bol of freedom since Roman timesSans culottes- “Without knee breeches” The group of working class men that wore trousers and supported the RevolutionMerveilleuses- “The marvelous ones” women, long flowing trains. sheerest fabrics,extremely low-cut necklines, huge hats, shaggy unkempt hair dressIncroyables- “The incredibles” men, loose waistcoats fit at shoulders, excessively tight breeches, huge cravats and collars, shaggy unkempt hair dress.Dandy- a fashionable man who dresses well,circulated in the “best” society, and who wasalways ready for a witty commentPantalettes- long drawers with lace and ruf-fles or pleats at the edges that showed at the hem of the dressesRound gowns- Dresses that did not open in the front to display the petticoatHigh stomacher dress- complex construc-tion, the bodice was sewn to the skirt at the back onlySpencer- short, was it length jacket, cut just below the bustline, short or long sleeves, could be worn by both men and womenPelisse- coat-like garment, empire silhou-ette, often had a fur wrap with or on itToques- high, brimless hatsReticules- small handbags with a drawstring at the top, interchangeable with the word in-dispensibles.Indispensibles- see reticulesCravats- interchangeable with the word stocks, a tie-like garment worn around a high standing collar. Stocks- see cravatsPantaloons- tightly fitted, had straps that fit under the instep to keep from riding up, worn by menCossacks- Extremely full trousers were based on the dress of Russian soldiers Top hats- predominant styleBicorne- two-pointed hat worn with the points from front to back or from side to side. Chapeau bras- two-pointed hat worn for the evening and carried flatted under the armA la victime- a short hairstyle referring to the short hair of the victims of the guillotineCh 12 The Romantic Period: 1820-1850Carriage dresses- day dressesRomantic movement- A form of rebellion against restrictions on artistic expressionBustles- small down or cotton-filled pads that tied on around the waist at the back and held out skirts in the back Promenade- day dressesPelisse-robe- outdoor garmentImbecile sleeves- same as idiot sleevesLeg-of-mutton sleeves- full at shoulder, gradually decrease to fitted cuffGigot- same as leg-o-muttonDemi-gigot- full from shoulder to elbow, fit-ted from elbow to wristIdiot sleeves- extrememly full from shoulderto wrist, gathered as wrist in fitted cuff, named for a sort of “straight jacket” lookMarie sleeve- full, tied in puffs with ribbons or bandsPelerines- a cape-like garment, typical women's dress of 1830, cross between a col-lar and a cape, reinforces the broad but slop-ing shoulder effectFichu pelerine- two wide panels or lappets extending down the front of the dress and passed under the beltSanton- a silk cravat worn over a ruffCanezou- a small sleeveless spencer worn over a bodice or a garment similar to the pelerineA la chinoise- pulled back and side hair into knot at top, hair at forehead and temples in curlsEton suit- for boys, consisted of a short, sin-gle breasted jacket, ending at the waitsTunic suit-for boys, consisted of a jacket, fitted to the waist where it attached to a full, gathered or pleated skirt that ended at the kneeMackintosh- waterproof, rubber coat, loose fittingChesterfield- no waistline, short vent in back, no side pleats, other velvet collar, of-ten double breastedDerby hats- United States term for stiff, round, bowl-shaped crowns with harrow brims hatsBowlers- Term for derby hats in EnglandBerthas- wide, deep collars following the necklineThe Victoria- a variation of the sleeve en bouffant with a puff at the elbowSleeve en bouffant- also called en sabot, al-ternated places of tightness and puffed out expansionsBishop sleeve- vertical pleats at shoulder, release to a fitted cuffCapote- soft fabric crown, stiff brimBonnet, Sun bonnet- Mantlet- a short garment rather like a hybridbetween a shawl and a short mantle with points handing down at either side of the frontShawl-mantlet- same as mantletPelerine-mantlet- with a deep cape, coming well over the elbows and having long, broadfront lappets worn over, not under, a beltBurnous- a larger mantle of about three-quarter length with a hood, the name and style deriving form a similar garment worn by Arabs who lived int he Middle Eastern desertsPardessus- outdoor wear that had a defined waistline and sleeves and were from one half to three quarters in lengthGaloshes- rubber overshoesMittens- gloves cut to cover the palm and back of the hand but not the fingersMitts- same


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