!1!CTE 3512 Exam 2 Study Guide Chapter 13: The Crinoline Period: 1850-1869 1. Crinoline Period a. The Crinoline is a device that holds women’s skirts b. Dress reform c. Invention of the sewing machine and photography 2. Levi’s a. Blue denim trousers and were popular as durable pants for men of the California Gold Rush. 3. Turkish trousers a. Full legs that were gathered to fit tightly at the ankle. 4. Bloomers a. Cut of trousers retained this name but women’s undergarments were nicknamed this. 5. Amelia Bloomer a. Adopted the style of wearing short skirts over Turkish trousers. She did not originate the style but it was named after her. 6. Empress Eugenie a. Fashion icon and adopted the designs of English fashion designer Charles Worth. 7. Camisole a. Or corset cover b. Waist length garment was shaped to the figure, had short sleeves and buttoned down the front. 8. Basques a. Cut like a jacket and had extensions of the bodice below the waist and flared out below the waist. 9. Engageantes a. Sleeves that were open at the end and were worn with removable lace or muslin under sleeves. 10. Pagoda sleeves a. Narrow at the shoulder and expanded and expanded abruptly to a wide mouth at the end. 11. Garibaldi a. Red; Blouse especially popular in the 1860s. 12. Princess Dress a. New, one piece style that was cut without a waistline seam 13. Reefers a. Identical in design to a pea coat but for officers and chief petty officers 14. Snood a. In daytime, hair was frequently made of colored silk or chenille. 15. Knickerbockers!2!a. Sportswear garment, cut loose legs and belted into a band that buckled just below the knee, 16. Knickers a. Shortened name for Knickerbockers 17. Frock Overcoat a. Cut along the same lines as the frock coat but longer 18. Cutaway Coat a. A mans formal daytime coat having the front portion of the skirt cut away from the waist so as to curve or slope to the tails at the back 19. Inverness cape a. A large, loose overcoat with full sleeves and a cape ending at wrist length 20. Raglan Cape a. A full overcoat with an innovative sleeve construction. Instead of setting the sleeve into a round armscye t was joined in a diagonal hole seam running from under the arm to the neckline. 21. Ready-to-Wear a. Made for the general market and sold through stores rather than made to order for an individual customer; off the rack. 22. Tuxedo a. A mans dinner jacket for a formal evening. 23. Bowler a. A mans hard felt hat with a round dome shaped crown Chapter 14: The Bustle Period and the Nineties 1. The Bustle Period • Derived its name from the device that provided the shaping for a skirt silhouette with marked back fullness. • Last decade of the 19th century was called the “Gay Nineties” or, in France, “La Belle Epoque.” • This period began in France with the shock of the Franco-Prussian War, (French Aries were defeated and Napoleon III surrendered to the victorious Prussian armies. 2. Bicycles • The English Bicycle: front wheel five feet high and a rear wheel of eight inches intrigued a few manufacturers. • First Lady Cyclists i. Originally in long skirts, even while wearing bustles but in the 1890s a bifurcated garment (a sort of a full knicker) was devised as a practical costume for the sport. ii. Few women adopted this and were called rationals. 3. Weighting • Gave silk fabric greater body in which the silk was treated with chemical salts. i. Excessive weighting causes fabric to wear out more quickly. 4. Mercerizing • Treating cotton fabrics with sodium hydroxide.!3!i. Improved strength, receptivity to dyes and luster. 5. First women’s garment to be available in stores • Underclothes and “Wrappers” 6. Mass Production • Invention of the sewing machine was a major factor. • Ebenezer Butterick i. Patented a special type of tissue paper pattern that he sold. i. Made in different sizes ii. The sized paper dress pattern helped to standardize sizes necessary for RTW. 7. Victorian Period • Arts ! eclectic • Architecture ! Gothic and Renaissance styles • Revivals of Rococo, Louis XVI and neo-Greek forms. 8. Pre-Raphaelite movement • A group of painters who opposed the direction of English art of the 1840s. • Took themes form medieval and Renaissance stories. • Japanese influences as well 9. Aesthetic movement • A popular form of the Pre-Raphaelie philosophy i. Japanese and Asian influences were pronounced especially in textiles and other decorative arts. • Oscar Wilde ! wore his own version of Aesthetic costume. 10. Art Nouveau • An attempt by artists and artisans to develop a style with no roots in earlier artistic movements. • Emphasizes sinuous, curved lines, contorted and stylized forms of nature, and a constant sense of movement. 11. Shaping of the Bustle • 1870-1878 ! A full bustle created by the manipulation of the drapery in the back of the skirt. • 1878-1883 ! the sheath or cuirass bodice i. Fashionable, fullness dropped to below the hips, and a semicircular frame supported the trailing skirts. • 1884-1890 ! Large, rigid, shelf-like bustles. 12. Combination • A garment combining the chemise and drawers. 13. Tea Gown • Intended to provide some relief from the tight lacing, it was worn without a corset, loosely fitted and had softer lines compared to daytime and evening gowns. • Viewed as national or reform garments. 14. Princess Polonaise • When the outer fabric was looped up or draped over the hip. 15. Cuirass Bodice!4!• A long jacket ending in a point at the front and fitting smoothly over the hips. This cut req. less back fullness and the bustle fullness decreased gradually. 16. Kick-Up • Puff at the sleeve cap 17. Ulster • A long, belted coat often made with a removable shoulder cape or hood. 18. Dolman • Semi fitted garment of hip to floor length that was shaped like a coat but had a wide bottomed sleeve that was part of the body of the garment (a sort of coat/cape). 19. Jersey • Lillie Langtry ! adopted wool knit fabric as a tennis costume. She was born on the British island of Jersey and was nicknamed “the Jersey Lily” and as a result the fabric became know as “Jersey.” 20. Clocks • A small design 21. Camisoles • Corset covers i. It was usual to wear one or two petticoats. 22. Shirtwaist or Waists • Name for blouses • Were among the first