Review for Exam 3 CTE 3512 History of Dress Fall 2015 1 Ch 15 The Edwardian Period and World War I 1900 1920 Paul Poiret claimed to have liberated women from corsets Credited with making narrow hobble skirts Known for vivid colors oriental overtones innovative marketing straight narrow skirt with slits at bottom to allow walking Hobble skirts Paul Poiret Delphos gown 1907 high quality silk functionality and ease of movement inspiration from Classical Greece Duster motoring coat used when operating an automobile lingerie dresses also called a Tea Gown white cotton or linen dress soft and ornamented with tucks ruffles pleats and lace frilly lingerie Bishop sleeve sleeves often softly gathered to a wristband Art Nouveau influence on women s accessories Tailor made a woman s suit Tea gowns soft and less fitted gowns worn in the late afternoon by women Pompadour had hair built high in front and at the sides around the face false hairpiece Rats Knickers French style wide frilled legs Directoire style close fitting Peg top skirts full at the hip narrowing to the ankles Minaret tunic Paul Poiret a wide tunic boned to hold out the skirt in a full circle and worn over the narrowest of hobble skirts Pullovers knitted sweaters belted at the hip and had long sleeves WWI Gabrielle Chanel Lounge coat British term for a sports or sack jacket Ascots scarf looking narrow band 2 Top coats ended at the hip worn by affluent men who could afford more than one overcoat Blazer men s sportswear jacket worn for tennis yachting or other sports worn with unmatched trousers WWI more practical clothing shortened skirts and widened clothing clothing became less cumbersome because women started doing tasks usually done by men Ch 16 The Twenties Thirties and World War II 1920 1947 Flapper fashionable young women that changed the styles radically free from all of the restraints from the past smoking fashion drinking L 85 Regulations restricted the quantity of cloth that could be used in clothing General Limiting Order Restricted the quantity of cloth that could be used in clothing Eliminated trouser cuffs extra pockets double breasted suits Regulated width of skirt hems and trousers Limited supplies of nylon wool silk rubber leather needed for the war effort Sportswear separate category of clothing used for practical casual dress and outdoor recreation clothing worn by men and women for leisure not dedicated to one particular sport Hookless fasteners Gideon Sundback used for corsets sleeping bags gloves money belts and tobacco pouches ZIPPERS Gabrielle Coco Chanel simple styles of the period Wool jersey Started designing before WWI Designs for the corset free gal who lived for pleasure self invention and independence Jeanne Lanvin Robe d Style Madeleine Vionnet Talented in the cutting of dresses BIAS CUT diagonal direction Rejected corsets padding or stiffening Designs compared to Greek sculptures Worked on life models Loose robes Slim firm figures Bias cut Madaleine Vionnet elegant feminine look fabric clings and showed curves technique for cutting clothing to utilize the diagonal direction of the cloth which has greater stretch and drapes in such a way that the body lines are accentuated 3 Elsa Schiaparelli dramatic flair and use of surrealist motifs designed sweaters in bizarre designs First to Use synthetic fibers Zipper fastenings Use vivid colors such as hot pink Open a boutique offering ready to wear clothing Haute couture firms that create garments that may be sold to private customers or to other segments of the fashion industry who also acquire the right to reproduce the designs Mainbocher American fashion editor that opened his own couture house in 1929 Claire McCardell practical clothes for working girls American Look most original American designer sportswear and casual clothes Adrian American designer for both contemporary and period films Adrian was known for high fashion and glamour 1920s and 30s Norman Norelll American precision tailoring purity of line conservative elegance Pauline Trigere French used unusual fabrics and prints and intrinsic cuts Art Deco Geometric forms Surrealism beyond the real dreamlike state no planning Dadaism ELSA SCHIAPARELLI Panties replaced drawers in the 1920s grew shorter to fit under active sports wear buttoned or with elastic at the waist Step ins Teddies Women s undergarments combination of camisole and panties SLIP Handkerchief skirt style of skirts with pleats gathers scalloped hems godets Ensembles matching dresses and coats or skirts overblouses and coats Robe de style inspired by the wide skirted Spanish styles of early 1600 s dropped waistline and full skirt Jeanne Lanvin Clutch coats women s coat that had to be held shut because it had no fastening Bobbed meaning hair was cut Shingle cropped hair cut for women exceptionally short in the back almost like a men s cut Eton crop extremely manly hair cut for women the shortest cut Briefs panties name changed to panty brief to briefs Eisenhower jackets based on military jackets 4 slightly bloused above the waist gathered to a fitted belt at the waist lower edge attached to belt of the same fabric Sloppy joes loose pullovers for adolescent women Dirndl skirts 1945 full and gathered skirts Page boy bob women s hair style straight hair turned under at the ends Feather cut short curly hairstyle Slacks in 1930 s slacks became a sportswear item for women Lastex used to make bathing suits and wrinkle free items in the 1930s Boxer shorts 1930s for men s undergarments influenced by boxers Jockey shorts men s undergarment fitted brief knit shorts Y shaped front opening Oxford bags 1920s wide legged trousers worn for changing at school English drape suit Men s suit Double breasted Wide shoulders More fitted at the hips Full sleeves and trousers Windsor spread collar Zoot suit Early 1940s then eliminated during wartime High waist pants Broad shoulders Wide lapels Suspenders Large bow tie Watch chain Polo coats made of tan camel s hair worn by a British polo team playing in the US popular outdoor garment for men late 1920 s and carried on into the 1930s English guards coat dark blue coat with wide lapels and an inverted pleat in the back and a half belt Zip in linings a new feature in the 1930s that made cold weather coats convertible to use in warmer temperatures Mackinaws lumber jackets study jackets made of heavily fulled wool Pea jackets American sailor military influence boxy dark and double breasted Sports jacket made