Part V The Nineteenth Century 1800 1900 Holoku a full length dress with a loose fit that fell from a yoke had a high neck and long sleeve Originated when the Hawaiian Queen Dowager Kalakua requested a dress that looked like that of the missionaries Mu umu u chemises that were meant to be worn under the holoku but instead the native women wore them for swimming and sleeping Impressionist a group of artists in the nineteenth century whom painted strokes of unmixed colors to give the appearance of reflected light Unfinished sketch like appearance Ch 11 The Directoire Period and the Empire Period 1790 1820 Kashmir shawls type of outdoor coat worn over dresses made in a square or oblong shapes so popular that napoleon ended importation to make them in France to boost economy Paisley shawls knockoffs made in Scotland Directoire Period 1794 1799 Napolean favors neoclassicism Empire Period men have more subdued color lacked decoration trousers became more popular trousers shirt vest coat silhouette still the same Sans culottes name for the French revolutionaries means without knee breeches Wore loose trousers of the working class instead of the knee Also wore carmagnoles short woolen jacket of a dark color Red cap of freedom breeches of the aristocratic Merveilleuses the marvelous ones women who affected the most extreme of the Directoire styles Long flowing trains the sheerest of fabrics necklines cut in some extreme cases to the waistline and huge exaggerated jockey like caps huge hats unkempt hair Incroyables incredibles men who wore waistcoats of loose fit at the shoulders excessively tight breeches huge covering cavats and neckties shaggy unkempt hair Dandy a favorite companion of the Prince Regent who was known for his dress circulated in the best society and always had a witty comment George Beau Brummel Round gowns no opening at front to show underskirt daytime or evening dress for women in this period High stomacher dress apron that had a complex construction in which the bodice was sewn to the skirt at the back only Spencer jacket worn for outdoors by both men and women short and cut at waistline or just below bust short or long sleeves Pelisse coat like garment worn outdoors empire silhouette often had fur wrap with or on it generally full length Poke bonnet 1800 1810 bonnets with brim over face embroidered ribbons and feathers A la victim Haircut a la victim cut short like the women going to the guillotine with red velvet ribbons around the neck Reticules small handbags often with a drawstring on top dress silhouette was small so pockets were not there usually Also called Indispensibles Cravats shirts were cut full and had high standing collars cravats or stocks were wrapped up around these collars Men Empire Period Or Stocks Pantaloons tightly fitting trousers had straps that fit under the instep to keep them from riding up Cossacks extremely full trousers based on Russian soldiers dress Top hats predominant hat style taller or shorter crowns and medium sized brims that curled up slightly at the sides and dipped in front or back Bicorne points worn front to back or side to side Chapeau bras French word meaning hat for the arm bicorne hat was flattened and carried under the arm for evening wear Directoire and Empire Periods At a Glance Garments pp 315 316 319 321 Hair Headdress pp 317 321 Footwear pp 317 319 321 Accessories and Jewelry pp 277 285 287 Cosmetics p 322 MEN Men cut their hair short Top hats are the predominant style Bicorne Chapeau bras Some fashion conscious men rouge their cheeks bleach their hands and use cologne Gloves are short made of cotton or leather Quizzing glasses Rings decorative watch fobs and occasionally decorative brooches Shoes have low round heels rounded toes tie closing gradually supplants buckles Many boot styles named for military heroes True military boots cover front of knee are open at back of knee Linen or cotton drawers Full cut shirts with high standing collars made from linen or cotton Cravats Stocks A coat a waistcoat worn beneath the coat and either breeches or trousers make up the suit Formal and informal dress differs only in quality and color of fabric Coats have tails where the cut in ends Pantaloons Cossacks Full overocats single or double breasted some with capes at the shoulder Dressing gown or banyan for home street and office wear Directoire and Empire Periods At a Glance Garments pp 271 276 279 284 Hair Headdress pp 276 281 282 244 Footwear pp 276 284 Accessories and Jewelry pp 277 285 287 Cosmetics and Grooming pp 277 287 WOMEN Women s clothing becomes more complicated Directoire styles based on Greek prototypes with hair combed back and Shoes in colors that match dresses or Gloves made of leather silk or net Reticules or indispensibles gathered in curls around the head other styles include a short curly tyle a la victime or a la Titus Jockey caps Influences from Egypt and ancient Greece and Rome Bonnets toques and gypsy hats Mature women wear day caps indoors Hand carried items include muffs parasols fans and decorative handkerchiefs Necklaces earrings rings small watches pinned to the dress brooches and bracelets in imitation of the Greek and Roman style pelisses made of leather velvet or satin Return of flat shoes and right and left cut soles Slippers with criss cross lacings Alf high short boots For bad weather women wear pattens with small platforms of wood or steel that fasten over the shoes and more subject to change Very fashionable women cease wearing corsets in Directoire Period Corsets cut in a straight line without waistline indentation push breasts up and out Some women use false bosoms made of wax or cotton Cotton or linen drawers Some women place petticoats over chemises Pantalettes Grecian style gowns Round gowns high stomacher dress Habit shirt Low cut necklines both round and square Shawls stoles cloaks and capes worn outdoors The spencer Ch 12 The Romantic Period 1820 1850 Romantic movement named after the movement in art and literature stressed expression of emotions valued imagination over rational thought Bustles small down or cotton filled pads that tied on around the waist at the back and held out skirt baboon butt Promenade synonymous with day dresses walking dresses and carriage dresses Pelisse robe a dress adapted to pelisse coat like garment worn outdoors empire silhouette often had fur wrap with or on it generally full length Leg of mutton sleeves very full at the shoulder with a gradual