Review for Exam 3 CTE 3512 History of Dress Fall 2014 1 32 Multiple Choices and True False Questions 1 5 points x 32 48 points 32 Matching Questions 1 point x 32 32 points 80 points Ch 15 The Edwardian Period and World War I Paul Poiret a young designer the focal point for style of the time between 1903 and the World War 1 captured the spirit of the age he reigned supreme in Paris couture at the time he altered customers way of dress by taking away corsets used vivid colors and making gowns that were loose and free through the body he put women in hobble skirts Hobble skirts hems so narrow that they could hardly move He is quoted saying I freed the bosom shackled the legs but gave liberty to the body Fortuny Spanish born designed clothing and textiles rare designers whose work seems timeless a creative artist of dress his fabrics conceived like painting he built up colors in layers printing and retouching to create textures and harmonies of color that were impossible to repeat Delphos gown Fortuny drew from the past and non European cultures as inspiration this was the most notable from ancient Greek styles fortuny s most famous design the way he pleated was unknown and they would be removed with dry cleaning and would have to be repleated by him Duster a cap with a duster worn backward at high speeds to prevent it from being blown off cars were opened roads unpaved Lingerie dresses the popular white frilly cotton or linen dresses with decorations included tucking pleating lace insertions and bands of applied fabric lace and embroidery Bishop sleeve was gathered into the arms eye armhole and full below the elbow with fabric puffed or pouched at the wrist Art Nouveau jewelry was often made in this style A style of decoration and architecture of the late 19th and early 20th centuries characterized particularly by the depiction of leaves and flowers in flowing sinuous lines Tailor made today would be called a woman s suit was important item of clothing for women Tea gowns affluent women wore soft less fitted dresses in the late afternoon created by Fortuny Pompadour had hair built high in the front and at the sides around the face Knickers many women wore combination underwear ornamented with lace and embroidery rather than drawers and a chemise Peg top skirts fullness concentrated at the hip then narrowing gradually to the ankles 2 Minaret tunic a wide tunic boned out to hold out the skirt in a full circle and worn over the narrowest of hobble skirts Hobble skirts the most extreme of the skirts where they could barely take a full step Pullovers knitted sweaters that pulled on over the head became popular after 1915 Lounge coat British term for sack jackets Ascots today s standard necktie Top coats ended at the hip was worn by affluent men who could afford more than one overcoat Blazer antecedent of the modern sport jacket was worn with unmatched trousers was worn for tennis yachting or other sports Ch 16 The Twenties Thirties and World War II Flapper seemed free from all the restraints of the past She smoked and drank she necked in parked cars she danced the Charleston until all hours of the night and looked totally different short hair short dresses flesh colored stockings rouge and lip color L 85 Regulations were passed that restricted the quantity of cloth that could be used in clothing savings in fabric were made by eliminating trouser cuffs extra pockets vests with double breasted suits and regulating the width of skirt hems and the length of men s trousers and suit jackets Some garments such as wedding dresses and burial gowns were exempt Sportswear there was a need for practical casual dress and it became a separate category of clothing Hook less fasteners was sold for use in corsets gloves sleeping bags money belts and tobacco pouches Gideon Sundback Goodrich bought them for rubber boots and used the word zipper boots and trademark the word zipper but they became a generic term to any toothed slide fastener Gabrielle Coco Chanel began to work as a designer before World War I During the war she had a small shop in Deauville a seaside resort where she had great success in making causal knit jackets and pullover sweaters She designed comfortable practical clothes buying sailor s jackets and men s pullover sweaters that she combined with pleated skirts After the war she returned to Paris and set up a salon that became one of the most influential She is credited with making the suntanned look and jewelry popular she designed simple classic wool jersey styles She closed shop in World War II then came out of retirement and had a successful second career Madeleine Vionnet began to work as an apprentice in a dressmaker s shop at the age of thirteen She worked at the important fashion house of Callot Soeurs and later for Doucet Her plain unadorned but well cut designs were not acceptable to Doucet where elaborate and lavish clothes were the mode She had a distinctive gift for bias cut Bias cut a technique for cutting clothing to utilize the diagonal direction of the cloth which has greater stretch and drapes in such a way that the body lines and curves are accentuated Elsa Schiaparelli an Italian designer worked in Paris in the 1930s where she began by creating sweaters in bizarre designs Hers was a flair for the theatrical her emphasis on color and unusual 3 decorative effects were widely praised She is credit with being the first in couture to use zippers her innovations included the first evening dress with a matching jacket and skirts to match sweaters She worked with Salvador Dali Surrealism who designed fabrics for her She was friend of many surrealist and are pronounces in her work use of body parts in prints and animals Named shocking pink Haute couture firms that create garments that may be sold to private customers or to other segments of the fashion industry who also acquire the right to reproduce the designs were sold to private customers and to retail stores where they were resold or copied and sold to customers of the store Through this system the designs of the couturiers influenced international fashions A trade association called the Chambre Syndicale de la couture Parisienne Mainbocher an American born designer who went to Paris in the 1920 s to work as a fashion editor He opened his own couture house in Paris in 1929 He went back to New York and continued to work as he had in Paris following the practices of the French couture Claire McCardell one of the most