1 CTE3512 HISTORY OF DRESS FINAL EXAM KEY TERMS 32 Multiple Choices and True False Questions 1 5 points x 32 48 points 32 Matching Questions 1 point x 32 32 points 80 points Ch 15 The Edwardian Period and World War I 18 Paul Poiret Edwardian Period 1900 1920 Engaged to Charles Worth s son Gaston Left house of worth and opened his own establishment Was a figure whose influence was so great whose work captures the spirit of the age that they seem to serve as a focal point for style in that time First radical step he took was to do away with corsets Made gowns that were loose free through the body Put women in hobble skirts Use of vivid colors I free the bosom shackled the legs but gave liberty to the body First of couturiers to begin marketing perfume named after his daughter 19 Hobble skirts walk 20 Delphos gown Edwardian Period Women 1909 1914 Skirts with hems so narrow that you could hardly move Some were so tight a slit had to be made at the bottom to enable women to Edwardian Period 1900 1920 Pleated gown inspired by ancient Greek styles Most famous design by Fortuny Patterned fabrics were in rich often dark shades influenced by renaissance and oriental designs Usually made in bright solid colors 21 Duster Edwardian Period 1900 1920 Cars were open and roads unpaved therefore this term was appropriate 2 22 Lingerie dresses Term used to show the effects of dirt kicked up by automobiles less than if it were made in a darker or lighter shade Edwardian Period Women 1900 1908 Popular white frilly cotton or linen dresses with decorations tucking pleating lace insertions bands of applied fabric lace embroidery Referred to as this probably because the fabric and decoration so much resembled women s undergarments lingerie of the period 23 Bishop sleeve Edwardian Period Women 1900 1908 Gathered into the armseye armhole and full below the elbow with fabric puffed or pouched at the wrist 24 Art Nouveau A style of decorative art architecture and design prominent in western Europe and the US from about 1890 until World War I and characterized by intricate linear designs and flowing curves based on natural forms Edwardian Period Women 1900 1908 Today would be called a women s suit Jackets varied in length ending anywhere from waist to below the hip Shorter jackets generally fitted longer jackets sometimes loose and sack like Many imitated cut of men s jacket Edwardian Period Women 1900 1908 Worn by more affluent women in the late afternoon Were soft less fitted Edwardian Period Women 1900 1908 Important hairstyle that had hair built high in front and at the sides around face Edwardian Period Women 1909 1914 Undergarment also referred to as drawers Quantity of underclothing worn decreased Instead of drawers many women wore combination underwear ornamented with lace and embroidery 29 Peg top skirts Edwardian Period Women 1909 1914 25 Tailor made 26 Tea gowns 27 Pompadour 28 Knickers 3 30 Minaret tunic Fullness concentrated at the hip then narrowing gradually to the ankles Edwardian Period Women 1909 1914 Designed by Paul Poiret A wide tunic boned to hold out the skirt in a full circle and worn over the narrowest of hobble skirts 31 Pullovers women in these sweaters 32 Lounge coat Knitted sweaters that pulled on over the head popular after 1915 Had no discernible waist were belted at the hip had long sleeves Designer Gabrielle Chanel given credit for being the first person to interest Edwardian Period Men 1900 1920 Became standard suit jacket for men during 20th century Were worn for all occasions and even appeared for leisure time wear as sport jackets Called sack jackets by American tailors British preferred this term 33 Ascots Edwardian period Men 1900 1920 Ties with wide ends that were worn with one end looped over the other and held in place with a tie pin 34 Top coats Edwardian Period Men 1900 1920 Ended at the hip Worn by affluent men who could afford more than one overcoat Raglan and chesterfields Ulsters with whole or half belts and detachable capes or hoods Inverness coats with single or double capes Mackintosh anything waterproof Trench coat 35 Blazer Antecedents of the modern sports jacket worn with unmatched trousers can be seen in this Worn for tennis yachting or other sports Sources of where this name came from 4 Queen victoria is said to have decreed that henceforth jackets of this Name came from the blazing red color of these jackets when worn for style would be called this sports Ch 16 The Twenties Thirties and World War II 36 Flapper past 37 L 85 Regulations 20 s 30 s WWII Nickname for a woman in the 1920 s who seemed free of all the restraints of the Smoked drank dressed completely different wore skirts revealing their legs short hair flesh colored stockings rouge lip color hadn t been worn by nice girls 20 s 30 s WWII Guidelines passed during ww2 restricting the quantity of cloth that could be used in clothing Scarce goods were rationed few clothing items were actually rationed except for shoes made of leather which in short was supply 38 Sportswear 20 s 30 s WWII The move to expanded outdoor recreation reinforced the need for practical casual dress and established this as a separate category of clothing Special dress required for sports such as tennis and skiing 39 Hookless fasteners 20 s 30 s WWII Zipper improved by Gideon Sun back Sold for use in corsets gloves sleeping bags money belts and tobacco pouches 40 Gabrielle Coco Chanel 20 s 30 s WWII Began working as a designer before ww1 had a small shop in Deauville where she had great success in making casual knit jackets and pullover sweaters Designed comfortable practical clothes buying sailor s jackets and men s pullover sweaters that she combined with pleated skirts After ww1 came back to Paris and set up a salon that became one of the most influential in Paris 5 Credited with making suntanned look and costume jewelry popular but real genius comes from designing simple classic wool jersey styles Went to Hollywood in the 1920s to design for films Insisted the costumes be appropriate for the action of the drama and in this way she was responsible for new authenticity in film clothes 41 Madeleine Vionnet 20 s 30 s WWII At the age of 13 began working as in apprentice in a dress makers shop Worked at the important fashion house of callot soeurs later for doucet Plain unadorned but well cut designs were not acceptable to Doucet where elaborate and lavish clothes were the focus So left in the years before ww1 and opened her