CTE 3512 Exam 3 Review CH 15 THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD WORLD WAR I 1900 1920 1st decade of the 20th century Edwardian Period after King Edward VII of England USA o The Good Years Confident Years Age of Optimism Innocent Years o Reflect a sense of well being 45 states population was over 76million War Influence on Fashion o 1914 1918 o Women wore more comfortable practical clothing Short skirt that was wide around the hem o Wool was in short supply dyes restricted use of dark colors o Telephone Type Writer Motion picture electricity in homes cars 8 000 registered motoring coats Turn of the Century goggles hats with visors veils Influences on Fashion o French Couture Exposition Universelle biggest fashion houses exhibited their designs Gatson Charles Worth s son hired a new designer Paul Poiret o Paul Poiret 1879 1943 Innovative designer that established himself as a fashion leader in haute couture Gatson his brother disagreed on the new hire so Poiret left created his own house Claimed to have liberated women from corsets Hobble Skirts 1903 WWI his peak in Paris couture Skirts with narrow hems women could hardly move had slits to move Popular major influence on fashion Use of vivid colors oriental influenced style 1st of couturiers to begin marketing perfume 1920 s he became less successful bcs he didn t want to adjust to new trends o Fortuny Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo rare designer whose work seems timeless Influence came from past and non European cultures Delphos gown influenced from ancient Greek 1907 Fortuny s most famous design Renaissance Oriental motifs high quality silk 1908 1914 update These gowns had pleats functionality ease of movement o Narrower shoulders semi fitted waistline shorter skirt fewer high boned collars Not that popular but Poiret admired his work Women s Roles o 5 million in workforce Women clubs o June 4 1919 right to vote o Automobiles the rich s toy Dusters were worn motoring coats needed since cars were open o Costume Men long cotton or linen duster cap with visor goggles Women green face veils stylish coats Women Dress 1900 1920 o Phases Edwardian style S shaped 1900 1909 Empire revival hobble skirt 1909 1914 WWI 1914 1918 Postwar Styles 1918 1919 o Ready to wear blouses shirtwaists skirts capes undergarments o Introduction of Maternity clothing o Influences China Japan Middle Ages 18th Century Empire o Garments Full bosom swelled hips trumpet from skirt corseted waist S shaped 1900 1908 High boned collar Narrow waist with a decorative belt Brassiere a modified bust supporter that s more suitable for the new silhouette Bishop Sleeve gathered into the armhole and full below the elbow with fabric puffed or pouched Jabots frilly ruffles that were placed at the front of the neck at the wrist Last half of the decade sleeves were shorter Goring the production of shaping skirts uses number of panels shaped so that when joined they fit the body in some areas hips and flare out in the bottom Tailor made women s suit important item of clothing for women imitated cut of men s jackets o Undergarments Drawers camisoles corsets corset cover petticoats Corset covers had ruffles to make boobs look bigger Lingerie Dress white cotton or linen dresses that were soft ornamented with tucks ruffles Tea Gown soft less fitted dress worn in late afternoon gowns by Fortuny were used as tea pleats lace gowns o Coats Long wide sleeves kimono style capes o Gibson Girl Charles Dana Gibson creator Women in shirtwaists skirts straw hats Personified the ideal of young feminine beauty Full loose around the face chignon o Hair Pompadour popular hair built high in front and at the sides around the face Picture hats large brimmed o Jewelry influenced by Art Nouveau Clasps brooches pendants necklaces chains pendants dog collars long necklaces Knickers underwear that women wore ornamented with lace embroidery rather than drawers Straight silhouette no more high boned collar elevated waistline military collars ruffled jabots wide revers or lapels Sleeves tight fitted ending below the elbow or at the wrist with cuffs of contrasting color Narrow circumference around the ankles Peg top skirts fullness concentrated at the hip then narrowing gradually to the ankles popular Tunics Worn over dresses varied in shape from narrow to wide full bottoms and multiple layered tunics Minaret tunic Poiret designed it wide tunic boned to hold out the skirt in a full circle worn over the narrowest of hobble skirts Harem skirt also by Poiret full Turkish style trouser that wasn t popular Women 1909 1914 o Garments Evening Empire and Oriental influences Less bouffant soft waves o Hair Women 1914 1918 o Garments Cami knickers combination garment that put together a camisole with a skirt that buttoned under the crotch to form drawers popular when skirts became shorter Hems 6inches off the ground Loose fitting belts v shaped or square necklines sailor collars full skirts straight sleeves Pullovers knitted sweaters that pulled over the head popular after 1915 No waist belted hip long sleeves Chanel first person to start knitted pullovers during WWI o Hair Women 1918 1920 o Postwar Closer to face shorter high hats and smaller Narrower silhouette barrel shaped silhouette Jeanine Lanvin fashion designer of the period created chemise dress Robe de style emphasized ornate designs Men 1900 1920 o Changes were less dramatic than women o Undergarments Union or one piece drawers undershirts Primary fabric for underwear wool cotton was coming into use o Standard suit jacket sack jacket Consisted of shirt necktie vest jacket trouser Four in hand ties standard tie Ascot ties with wide ends that were worn with one end looped over the other held in o Lounge coat place with a tie pin British for sack jackets jackets worn for all occasions sports jackets o Frock Coats Cutaway coats For older conservative men business occasions o Shirts were visible only at the collar above the vest the end of the sleeves if worn under coat o Trousers creased narrow at bottom o Hats suspenders and detachable collars were popular o Outdoor garments Sweaters cardigans Top coats ended at the hip worn by affluent men that could by more than 1 coat o Active Sports garments Blazer doesn t match trousers worn for tennis yachting or other sports Jodhpurs pair of trousers fitted closely around the lower leg flaring out above the knee worn for riding Short Same as late 19th century top hate soft felt hats homburg or trilby derbies leisure caps o Hair CH 16 THE