Chp 15 The Edwardian Period and World War I 1900 1920 Paul Poiret Did away with corsets and created the hobble skirt Also designed the minaret tunic which was usually worn over the Also known for vivid colors innovative marketing and oriental hobble skirt overtones Fortuny Delphos gown Known for his timeless styles and Delphos gown Studied painting sculpture architecture chemistry and dyes Influences by history and non European cultures Used renaissance and oriental motifs and pleating Greek influenced Delphos gown o Functionality and ease of movement A coat worn when riding in an automobile cotton or linen Duster Women s 1900 1908 White frilly cotton or linen dresses with decoration like tucking pleating ruffles lace and embroidery Lingerie dresses Bishop sleeve Gathered into the armhole and full below the elbow with fabric Typically in the first part of the decade puffed or pouched at the wrist Tailor made Would be called a woman s suit today Jackets varied in length ending from anywhere at the waist to below the hip Imitated men s jackets Tea Gowns Pompadour New form of dress in the 1870 s Worn without a corset softer in line daytime and evening Fortuny gowns were often worn as tea gowns Hair built high in front and at the sides around the face False hairpieces Women s 1909 1914 Knickers Drawers that could also be combinations French style had wide frilled legs Directoire style was close fitting Straight and extremely narrow slits at bottom to allow walking Designed by Paul Poiret A wide tunic boned to hold out the skirt in a full circle and worn Designed by Paul Poiret over the narrowest of hobble skirts Hobble skirts Minaret tunic Men 1900 1920 Lounge coat collars Loose comfortable jacket with no waistline Straight fronts center vents in back sleeves without cuffs small Became the standard suit jacket of the 20th century Worn for all occasions Also called sack jackets and sport jackets Top coats ended at the hip Worn by affluent men who could afford more than one overcoat Raglan and chesterfields Ulsters with whole or half belts and detachable capes or hoods Mackintosh anything waterproof Trench coat Inverness coats with single or double capes Chp 16 The Twenties Thirties and World War II Flapper Girls who smoke drank kissed boys went dancing etc Cut hair short wore short skirts that showed her legs wore makeup fashionable dress for 20 s L 85 Regulations quantity of cloth that could be used in clothing Regulations that were passed during WWII that restricted the There were shortages in wool silk rayon cotton and linen Eliminated trouser cuffs extra pockets vests with double breasted suits regulated width of skirt hems and length of men s trousers dresses infants clothing religious clothing Exceptions were wedding gowns burial gowns maternity Gabrielle Coco Chanel Her designs became the epitome of 20 s style Simple and classic designs For the corset free gal who lied for pleasure self invention and Known for using wool jersey in the 20 s also credited with the Closed her shop during WWII and came out of retirement in 1954 independence suntanned look and costume jewelry Madeleine Vionnet Specialized in plan unadorned well cut dresses technical skills Worked on live models slim firm figured loose robes Rejected corset padding or stiffening Designs compared to Greek sculptures Originated the Bias cut a technique for cutting clothing to utilize the diagonal direction of the cloth which has greater stretch and drapes in such a way that the body lines and curves are accentuated popular in the 1930s o Elegant feminine look fabric clings shows curves Elsa Schiaparelli An Italian designer who began in Paris in the 1930s by creating sweaters in bizarre designs Worked well to gain publicity Credited as the first of the couture to use zippers to use synthetic fabrics and open a boutique with ready to wear clothing and skirts to match sweaters Also created the first evening dresses with matching sweaters Came up with the vivid pink color shocking pink Haute couture Firms that create garments that may be sold to private customers or to other segments of the fashion industry who also acquire the right to reproduce the designs Trade association called Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne Mainbocher Main Rousseau Bocher An American born designer who went to Paris in the 1920s to work as a fashion editor One exception to the system America had in place where most designers worked for ready to wear manufacturers where they produced lines for each season Designed Wallis Simpson s duchess of Windsor wedding dress Claire McCardell When WWII came he left Paris and moved back to New York where he still followed the practices of the French couture An American fashion designer American Look Clean lined functional comfortable and appropriate First collection was done for Townley Frocks in 1931 designed She designed under her own name in the 40 s and 50 s success Originated mainly sportswear and casual clothes followed the body curves o Matching separates a new idea o Dirndl skirts o The monastic a bias cut full tent dress that when belted o Hardware closings o Spaghetti or shoestring ties o The diaper bathing suit o Ballet slippers o The poncho Jeanne Lanvin Began as milliner in 1890 Emphasized more ornate designs Originated robe de style popular gown of 1920s Art Deco expressions of the past or present fauvism and expressionism prints embroideries beaded decorations and jewelry The name is derived from an art exposition held in Paris in 1925 Geometric forms Egyptian and Mayan motifs as well as designs related to cubism Can be seen in many geometric lines of garments and fabric that could be derived from the artistic Surrealism from the subconscious imagination 30s beyond the real influenced by Freudianism dreamlike state no planning nonconventional scenes drawing Elsa Schiaparelli had surrealist influences in her designs in the o Body parts like eyes mouths and hands in unexpected o An organza dress with a painted lobster on the skirt o Suits with butterflies or cicadas as buttons o Hats shaped like shoes places on garments or in prints Women 1920 1930 Step ins An evolution of the combination combines the camisole and panties Panties were the new drawers or knickers of the 20s they were shorts unbuttoned or elasticized at the waist usually decorative Had a straight cut Also called cami knickers or Teddies Robe de style and a dropped waistline An evening dress with a bouffant skirt think