1 HISTORY OF DRESS CTE 3512 EXAM 2 STUDY GUIDE v Chapter 11 THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD THE EMPIRE PERIOD c 1790 1820 See page 307 in text for full intro The Directoire Period includes the major events of the American Revolution 1776 French Revolution 1789 and the establishment of the Directory a government by a five man executive The Empire Period coincides with the period during which Napoleon Bonaparte was the head of the state in France The French Revolution o Social political and economic troubles high unemployment and high prices along with a bankrupt government resulted in the revolution o Urban bourgeoisie lead the revolution o Louis XVI summoned the Estates General a representative assembly of French citizens o The silhouette of fashions for women did not change much Styles simplified and English influence styles were popular Neckclothes usually associated with peasants became popular o Citizens were expected to declare their loyalty by wearing the revolutionary colors red white and blue These colors were considered fashionable o Wearing a tricolor ribbon cockade was mandatory o Men wore The bonnet rouge 13 in key terms red cap of liberty Sans culottes 14 in key terms the costume of the revolution meaning without breeches at the back Carmagnole a short woolen jacket of dark color hip length and fullness Trousers were of the same material or stripped with red white or blue Clogs or sabots wooden shoes o The Grand Master of Ceremonies sent instructions to participants as to the costume to be worn for the meeting o Each Estate was assigned to a specific mode of dress o The 1st Estate the Clergy wore garments regulated by the church o The 2nd Estate the Aristocrats wore Black silk garments gold trimmings white stockings lace cravats hats with feathers Estates General 2 The Empire o The 3rd Estate the Upper Middle Class to Peasants wore Black suits and stockings short black silk capes black plain muslin cravats black tricorne hats no swords o Napoleon was crowned Emperor of the French o After the establishment of the Empire the basic style lines of men and women continued o The extremes of nudity and the styles of the Merveilleuses 15 in key terms and Incroyables 16 in key terms disappeared o Napoleon was somewhat conservative in his attitudes and considered extreme fashions immoral o More elaborate fabrics and styles began to appear as the Emperor attempted to recreate the elegance of the old regime o Napoleon restricted the importation of fabrics from abroad o Shawls 8 9 in key terms came from India but Napoleon canceled the importation of them and demanded that they be recreated in France England o King George III reigned A pious virtuous man who enjoyed the simple life Wrote articles on farming called Farmer George o After the death of King George III the Prince of Whales was named Regent o The Prince of Whales became known as the first gentlemen of Europe and as a result the court became the center of fashion in England o Women s clothing was not narrow like the French rather women placed padded rolls under the waistline to create a fuller skirt o After 1 or 2 years the English line narrowed and became like the French dress United States o The expansion of the American frontier brought Native American and European populations in to frequent contact Indian blankets blankets colored with colored bands o There were later adapted into coats o Moccasin style shoes became popular o Styles in the US paralleled those of Europe Clothing influenced by neoclassicism resembled Greeks and Romans o Flat shoes slippers o Ribbons wrapped around ankles o Art had Greek and Roman themes o Patriotism 3 The growth of the textile industry accelerated as the Industrial Revolution continued o The invention of the cotton gin had an enormous impact on cotton production in the American South o Prices of cotton dropped making fabric affordable and more available o In 1801 Joseph Marie Jacquard developed a type of mechanized loom for weaving patterned fabrics More than 10 000 looms were sold within the next 10 years o Women s clothing was still mostly made at home or by seamstresses o Men s clothing began to be produced as ready made as well as custom made Summary o Politics and conflict were themes express through dress in France at the beginning of 1709 o Clothing was used to make political statements Men wore red had of liberty Women wore dresses with revolutionary colors The revival of Classical Greek and Roman styles in women s dresses during the Directory paralleled the interest in the political ideals of the Greek and Roman republics o Classical revivals influenced dress architecture interior design furnishings and the fine arts o Many fabrics were imported from India but European and American manufacturers began to imitate these and other foreign products in cotton o Noticeable differences in the clothing of men and women Women s dress utilized more decorative fabrics a greater variety of colors and many style details Men wore trousers instead of knee breeches wore more somber colors and plainer fabrics all aspects of fashion that had previously been associated with the working class 4 v CHAPTER 12 THE ROMATIC PERIOD c 1820 1850 See page 327 in text for full intro The Romantic Period was named after the movement in art and literature o Stressed expression of emotions o Valued imagination over rational thought o Returned to Historic past for inspiration o An interest in history stimulated revivals of fashions in dress Romantics were more concerned with content and less with form they liked to break rules o Empirical science and philosophy were inadequate as a means of answering all the most important questions concerning human life Romanticism was a form of rebellion against restrictions on artistic expression The romantic style included wearing beards long hair and unusual clothing Romantics favored other times and places and favored the Middle Ages After 1820 Romantic style fashion began to appear o Costumes tried to revive old styles of clothing Neck ruffs Ferroniere Older sleeve styles After the revolution in France of 1848 49 Romanticism declined England o 1820 The Prince Regent refer back to England on pg 2 of this guide became King George IV Unpopular due to scandals o 1830 William the brother of King George IV took the throne o 1837 1901 Queen Victoria 18 years old at the time took the throne after her uncle King William died without an heir France o 1814 After the fall of Napoleon the