You should know important designers names for each time period This does not include the social cultural background questions Understand the background of each chapter Chapter 15 The Edwardian Period and World War I 1 Paul Poiret Claimed to have liberated women from corsets he stylized the no corset look he also put women in hobble skirts one of his many talents was for the use of vivid colors innovative marketing and Oriental overtones reigned supreme in Paris couture from 1903 to WWI one of the first couturiers to begin marketing perfume straight narrow slits at bottom to allow walking skirts created by Paul Poiret with hems so narrow that women could hardly move 2 Hobble Skirts 3 Delphos Gown popular in 1907 provided functionality and ease of movement unlike styles we ve seen previously Gown by Mariano Fortuny his most famous design Greek inspired came to be 4 Duster helped deal with all of the dust from the cars long cotton or linen motoring coats which began to be worn at the turn of the century 5 Lingerie Dresses also called a tea gown these dresses resembled the frilly lingerie of the period made of white cotton or linen they were soft and ornamented with tucks ruffles pleats and lace 6 Bishop Sleeve gathered into the armhole and full below the elbow with fabric puffed or pouched Art Nouveau style had influences on women s accessories and jewelry of the time refers to clothing which was made by a tailor today would be called a woman s suit also called a lingerie dress these dresses resembled the frilly lingerie of the period at the wrist 7 Art Nouveau 8 Tailor Made 9 Tea Gowns made of white cotton or linen they were soft and ornamented with tucks ruffles pleats and lace more affluent women wore soft less fitted tea gowns in the late afternoon front and at the sides around the face women wore false hairpieces to achieve this look this style had hair built high in combination underwear which most women began wearing rather than drawers 10 Pompadour 11 Knickers 12 Peg Top Skirts fullness concentrated at the hips and narrowing to the ankles still had that confined feature at the bottom this is where we get the hobble skirt from because one could barely walk because it s so tight around the ankles 13 Minaret Tunic circle and worn over the narrowest of hobble skirts created a lampshade effect designed by Paul Poiret it was a wide tunic boned to hold out the skirt in a full Knitted sweaters that pulled on over the head which became popular after 1915 had 14 Pullovers no discernible waist were belted at the hip and had long sleeves Scarf looking narrow band 15 Lounge Coat 16 Ascots the term used by the British to describe sports jackets or sack jackets 17 Top Coats 18 Blazer an outdoor garment that ended at the hip worn by affluent men blazer which was worn for tennis yachting and other sports antecedents of the modern sport jacket worn with unmatched trousers can be seen in the Extra Important Information from Chapter 15 First decade of the 20th Century called the Edwardian Period after King Edward VII of England Reigned 1901 1910 son of Queen Victoria and known for being social and fashionable These were The Good Years in the US reflected a sense of wellbeing Women used magazines to keep up with the latest fashions in society The more active life that women led were evident in styles as skirts grew shorter and the shirtwaist blouse and skirt were widely adopted women s roles reflected in their clothing Ready to wear for women blouses shirtwaists skirts capes undergarments Influences for women clothing from China Japan the Middle Ages the 18th Century Empire Period Garment Characteristics a high boned collar sleeves often softly gathered to a wristband called bishop sleeves narrow waist with a decorative belt a full bosom Between 1900 and 1920 women s fashions changed rapidly Women s dress is divided into these phases First advertisements for ready to wear maternity dresses appeared 1900 1910 o Edwardian styles or styles with emphasis on an S shaped silhouette 1900 1909 o Empire revival and the hobble skirt 1909 1914 o 1914 1918 World War I o 1918 1919 postwar styles Edwardian styles or styles with emphasis on an S shaped silhouette 1900 1909 o Protruding bosom o Severely corseted waist o Swelled hips o Protruding derriere o Trumpet form skirt o Slim waist cone skirt petticoats bulky sleeves o Corsets took on a new shape more of a predecessor to the bra o Coats were long with wide sleeves and kimono style Oriental influence Outdoor garments consisted mostly of cloaks and capes with high standing Medici collars capes popular for evenings o Hair Rats false hairpieces Pompadour look Large hats Exotic bird feathers used decorations with artificial flowers lace buckles feathers and bird wings The Gibson Girl o Created by Charles Dana Gibson o Personified the ideal of young feminine beauty for women Mariano Fortuny Granada Spain 1871 o Well versed in the arts with timeless works unlike Poiret s o Drew upon the past and non European cultures for inspiration especially ancient Greece which inspired his Delphos gown Empire revival and the hobble skirt 1909 1914 o Featured Shorter skirts skirts narrowed and grew shorter An elevated waistline or empire style revival the Hobble Skirt waistline moved up Narrower shoulders lost a bit of the puffiness in the shoulders and sleeves Also sometimes wore no corset Oriental styles evident in many types of clothing such as the Kimono coat Harem pants o Hair is less bouffant now o Tunic Dresses Tubular silhouette by 1912 with a higher waist Much more confined and fitted to the body o Undergarments The quantity of underclothing worn decreased Mary Phelps Jacobs patented bra in 1914 under the name of Caresse Crosby First fashion designers started to market their own perfumes in the 1910s Styles of 1914 1918 World War I o Clothing became more practical and comfortable for women Skirts shortened and widened Clothing became less cumbersome as women took on more tasks usually done by men because men were off at war Military influence Waistline was at a normal placement or slightly above o The war also affected colors and fabrics wool was in short supply as were the chemicals used for certain dyes restricting the use of dark colors o Hair was shorter and worn close to the face more women tried permanent waves Last Shift in Style 1918 postwar o More slim and long lines with a silhouette loosely fitted through the waist o Dresses with narrow hems had wide