Review for Exam 1 CTE 3512 History of Dress Spring 2014 28 Multiple Choices and True False Questions 1 5 points x 28 42 points 23 Matching Questions 1 point x 23 23 points 65 points Ch 7 The Italian Renaissance 1400 1600 Renaissance Italians believed that 1000 years of darkness and ignorance separated the Roman era and their times They believed that there had been a rebirth of Classical arts and learning The word Renaissance derived from italian word meaning to be born Believed Europe underwent a chaotic change a period of profound transition as medieval institutions crumbled and a new society and culture began to appear Guardaroba was a set of clothing made up of three garments two layers of indoor clothing and a mantle for outdoors french word robe In middle class families one new set of clothing was ordered each year and the old clothing was passed down donated or sold to the poor The head of the house was in charge of buying the clothing for members of family But the mistress of the family had to provide for her attendants Camicia chemise italian word for undershirts made of linen but quality depended on the wearer made full length to the floor sleeves normally long used as an undergarment for men and women mens had pant legs and all one piece although some wore them to work in the fields Ferroniere very popular chain or band of metal and pearls worn across the forehead with a jeweled decoration 15th century Condottieri during this time period Italy was made up of a bunch of small cities each city had a prince These princes were made up of ancient noble families Condottieri or hired military commanders who had taken over or wealthy merchant families Chopines distinctive venetian costume for women very high platformed soled shoes worn throughout Italy and northern europe In venice they were extra high Codpiece a pouch of fabric sewn into the crotch of of tights for men to accommodate for their balls LOL and it tied together with laces Caterina Sforza a women 1463 1509 who ruled and defended the town of Forli against the assassins of her husband and later against other attacking forces was an exception and existed outside of the general social framework of the renaissance and was not victim of her family sending her away and selling her to a wealthy family The Sforza fmaily is known to be very fashion forward Ottoman Turks conquerors of the Byzantine Empire in 1453 remained a military threat to Austria and eastern Europe until the end of the 17th century The Turks controlled trade routes in 1 the Orient treaties were made with the Italians French and later the English to permit the safe passage of trading caravans through the Turkish controlled lands Religious Figures in Art The Virgin Mary is almost always dressed more conservatively and less fashionably than any other women with a veil covering her hair Angels are always dressed in the Italian Ren Version of greek chiton The Wise Men are shown wearing the types of clothing worn by actors in religious pageants rather than realistic costume of the time Doublets close fitting sleeveless garment with a padded front originated as a military dress These were once worn alone as armor for ordinary soldiers or as padding under the armor or over armor Knee length Doublets were worn with hose Hukes were worn over Italians doublets were longer than the north Hukes garment worn by upperclass men french it was originally a covering for armor closed over shoulders and open on sides of body In shorter versions it had a slit at the front for ease when riding In longer versions there was no slit It was sometimes worn belted Fashionable for the first half of the15th century Houppelandes a gown or robe for men in England fitted across the shoulders then full from that point pleated on each side of the body closure down the front of the body with invisible fastens Beehive high round beehive shaped headdress favored by Italian women in the second quarter of the century Hose tied to the doublet were cut either as two separate pieces or seamed together at the crotch for men Doublet and hose were worn by working class men Turbanlike hat style one of the most important styles that originated in the Turkish dominated lands seen often in portraits painted by Italian Ren Artists Outer dress women had at least two parts under and outer dress These were often cut like a mans huke sleeveless seamed at the shoulders and open under the arm to display the under dress Hanging sleeves sleeves are finished in dagging and lined with contrasting color Generally nonfunctional and purely decorative Used mostly for ceremonial costume Most common sleeves for women or men were wider above the elbow and fitted below Mantles or capes were worn outdoors were both open and closed often lined in contrasting fabric and sometimes matching the dresses with which they were worn Token head cover while northern european women covered the hair Italian women arranged their hair elaborately wearing a token head cover in the form of a small jeweled net set at the back of the head or a sheer small veil 2 Decorative slashing found on the puffed sleeves or along the fullness of the dresses Venetian influence in the 15th century venetian women wore dresses with a waistline just below the breast with less heavy fabrics By the last half of the 16th century these women had normal waistlines with deep Ushaped fronts They arranged their hair in the front above the forehead in little twin horn style picture on 196 Most women bleached their hair blonde and all appeared taller than the men because of the chopines The Doge highest official in Venice together with an hereditary ruling class of nobles wore a long established traditional robe with wide sleeves The wider the sleeve the more important you were The men wore headdress over a coif picture 197 Ch 8 The Northern Renaissance 1500 1600 Ropa spanish origin outer gown or surcote made either sleeveless or with one of several types of sleeve a short puffed sleeve or with a long sleeve puffed at the top and fitted for the rest of the arms length The ropa fell from the shoulders unbelted in an A line to the floor Some versions closed in front but most were open to display the dress beneath Spanish work fashionable embroidery originated in Spain and spread throughout the rest of Europe Consisted of black silk figures worked on fine white linen often being applied to the neck band and wrists of men s shirts and women s chemises Cutwork threads were