Brittany Altman Cte 3512 final study guide Chapter 15 Edwardian Period WWI Paul Poiret 1903 and WWI 1879 1944 outstanding designer reigned supreme in the Paris couture Between o Liberated women from corsets and inspired by the Russian ballet and Orientalism o Credited with making narrow hobble skirts popular major fashion influence o Particularly known for vivid color innovative marketing oriental overtones Hobble skirts straight narrow slits at the bottom to allow walking Delphos Gown Greek influenced gown created by Mariano Fortuny o Created in 1907 high quality silk o Functionality ease of movement motoring coat usually made of linen Got its name because cars were open and road Duster were unpaved Lingerie dress made of white cotton or linen o soft and ornamented with tucks ruffles pleats and lace o Resembled frilly lingerie of the period o o Bishop sleeve pouched at the wrist gathered into the armhole and full below the elbow with fabric puffed or o o o o Art Nouveau the Art Nouveau style influenced accessories during this time period o These included belt buckles bracelets parasols and men s suspenders Tailor made garment for women that would be called a woman s suit today o Jackets varied in length waist to below the hip the bottom was a skirt o Many tailor mades imitated the cut of men s jackets Tea gowns worn by more affluent women in the late afternoon o soft less fitted o created by Fortuny also called lingerie dress pompadour false hairpiece o hairstyle with hair built high in front and at the sides around the face Knickers combination underwear worn by women ornamented with lace and embroidery o French style had wide filled legs o Directoire style was close fitting Peg top skirts full at hip narrowing to ankles tunics were worn over underskirts a wide tunic bonded to hold out the skirt in a full circle and worn over the Minaret tunic narrowest of hobble skirts o designed by Poiret pullovers knitted sweaters that pulled on over the head o became popular after 1915 o had no waist belted at hip long sleeves lounge coat American tailors called these coats sack jackets o standard suit jacket for men during the 20th century o worn for all occasions ties with wide ends worn with one end looped over the other and held in place with a ascots tie pin o scarf looking narrow band similar to standard necktie today top coats overcoat that ended at the hip o worn by affluent men who could afford more than one overcoat blazer an antecedent of the modern sport jacket o worn with unmatched trousers for tennis yachting or other sports Chapter 16 The 20 s 30 s WWII Flapper fashionable young women free from all restraints of the past o Extremely short bob haircut wore rouge lipstick and eyebrow pencil o Danced the Charleston until all hours smoked and drank guidelines that restricted the quantity of cloth that could be used in clothing L 85 Regulations during WWII Sportswear category of clothing Hookless fasteners o Eliminated trouser cuffs extra pockets vests with double breasted suits and regulated the width of skirt hems and the length of men s trousers and suit jackets active sports became more widespread which established sportswear as a separate made by Gideon Sundback because zippers at the time kept falling apart o used in corsets gloves sleeping bags money belts and tobacco pouches o Bought by B F Goodrich for closures on rubber boots later on Zipper first termed by Goodrich o First used in sports clothing o By the 1940s the zipper was a well established closure used in all clothing Gabrielle Coco Chanel Born outside Paris 1883 1971 o 1912 opened her first millinery shop o Her designs had become the epitome of the 1920s style o designs for the first Corset free gal who lived for pleasure self invention and independence o Known for using wool jersey in the 1920 s o 1954 surprises fashion industry by coming out of retirement Madeleine Vionnet 1877 o Began designing before 1920 retired in 1939 o Rejected corsets padding or stiffening o Designs compared to Greek sculptures o Worked on life models slim firm figures and loose robes o Her clients incl Isadora Duncan European Nobility Hollywood Royalty Marlene Dietrich Katharine Hepburn Gypsy Rose Lee o Quoted When a woman smiles her dress should also smile o Originated the bias cut a technique for cutting clothing to utilize the diagonal direction of cloth which has greater stretch and drapes in such a way that the body lines and curves are accentuated Elegant feminine look fabric clings shows curves Elsa Schiaparelli Rom 1890 o Begins career in Paris 1930s o New York Store 1949 o First to Use synthetic fabrics zipper fastenings use vivid colors hot pink open a boutique offering ready to wear o Known for her dramatic flair and use of surprising motifs o Never fit a dress to the body but train the body to fit the dress Elsa Haute couture firms that create garments that may be sold to private customers or to other segments of the fashion industry who also acquire the right to reproduce the designs o Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne represents French haute couture Mainbocher American born designer went to Paris in the 1920s to work as a fashion editor o he opened his own couture house in Paris in 1929 o designed Wallis Simpson s wedding dress Claire McCardell American designer born in Frederick Maryland studied at Parsons o She is credited with or making popular matching separates dirndl skirts the monastic a bias cut full tented dress American designer recognized as a designer for films Adrian o Designed for both contemporary and period films o Designed for the music comedy Camelot and designed in the round American Designer worked for Hattie Carnegie formed the Traina Norell firm American Designer formed her own business and showed her first collection a Norman Norell Pauline Trigere group of 12 dresses Arto Deco Moderns exposition held in Paris in 1925 derived from the L Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels o term applied to art typically produced in the 1920s and 30s o geometric forms that could be derived from artistic expressions of the past or present surrealism literally beyond the real o dreamlike state no planning Dadaism Panties drawers or knickers became panties Panty Briefs Briefs o Replaced drawers o Grew shorter to fit under active sportswear o Buttoned or with elastic at waist o Step ins also called teddies o Combination of the camisole and panties o Slips Handkerchief skirt o Slips