CTE 1401 Final Review Fabric Link educational resource with information about brands fabrics list of new technology Textile Labeling Laws Enforced by Federal Trade Commission Textile Fiber Product Identification Act enacted 1960 amended 1998 o Generic name of fiber content in order by weight 65 cotton 35 polyester o Name or number of manufacturer o Country of origin Finishes all the processes through which fabric is passed after bleaching dyeing or printing in preparation for market and use o Most are applied to fabrics but can be applied to fibers yarns products based on o Durability permanent durable semi durable non durable Durable finish Permanent finish lasts for the life of the fabric lasts for the expected life of the product Finish gradually diminishes after repeated laundering or cleaning lose effectiveness after repeated laundering use must be Semi durable finish reapplied ex starch Non durable finish partially or chemically removed after one laundering or cleaning Application method thermal chemical mechanical heat is applied to thermoplastic materials to produce a desired effect ex o Thermal finish permanent pleats o Chemical finish other properties tear or strength ex durable press finish finishes are combined for some applications ex napping of flannel o Mechanical finish mechanical action that produces a desired effect mechanical chemical gives a desired effect applied under very controlled conditions may result in Purpose routine aesthetic functional o Routine finish required to prepare woven knitted fabrics for dyeing printing Ex desizing scouring bleaching singeing and shearing tentering calendaring mercerization fulling o Aesthetic finish changes appearance and or hand of fabric Fabric content characteristics determine suitability Ex calendered finishes abrasive finishes flocking burn out plisse pleating denim finishing CALENDERED FINISHES o Embossing Creates texture by giving the fabric a raised 3D effect produced by passing the fabric between an etched roller and a soft surface roller The design from the engraved roller is imprinted on the fabric Made with thermoplastic fibers are heat set permanently Embossing instead of plisse reduces cost but isn t has durable Produced by passing 2 layers of rib weave fabric between 2 rollers to flatten the ribs o Moir Alters the way light reflects it Ex watermark wood grain Heat applied produces a durable finish on synthetic fabric with thermoplastic properties acetate polyester produced by applying starch wax or resin prior to passing the fabric through very Rollers add luster by flattening fabric finish is temporary with starch or wax and used for fabrics woven w thermoplastic fibers passed through high speed heated rollers o Glazing smooth rollers at high speed durable with resin o Cire create wet look Means wax in French Used for backpacks sleeping bags outerwear ABRASIVE FINISHES o NAPPING Mechanical finish where wire hooks are used to pull fibers from low twist yarns to used for suits and coats made by napping fabrics woven with worsted wool soft cotton plain or twill weave fabric napped on both sides ex pj children s soft cotton plain weave fabric on one side for pjs sheets diapers made by napping weft knit fabrics such as French terry gently raises the fibers from the surface also part of pile manufacturing used to produce a raised fabric surface Fabric can be napped on one or both sides Can only be produced with spun yarns o Worsted flannel o Outing flannel wear men s o Flannelette o Fleece o Brushing remove short fibers o Sanding Sueding over an abrasive cylinders makes fine fabric soft o Sueding gives suede like effect o FLOCKING alters the fabric surface fabric is passed between rubber pressure rollers Raised fiber finish or design where short fibers or flock are attached with an adhesive Engraved roller or rotary screen prints the fabrics with an adhesive which flock is applied to the fabric glued to create a design Velvet like fabric entire surface is coated with an adhesive flock fibers o BURNOUT Produced by dissolving one type of fiber in a fabric that s manufactured with 2 fibers ONLY be used for combination yarns or fabrics one is easily dissolved by a solvent or acid other is resistant to the chemical Commonly used Acetate to dissolve acetate fibers Appearance of burn out depends on construction Sulfuric acid is used to dissolve cellulosic fibers Polyester silk resistant to solvent acids Flat fabrics burn out is created by a sheer area with fringe around the edge where chemical was applied Velvets created by dissolving the pile in certain areas basic fabric is visible raised design looks flocked Produced by applying a chemical in vertical stripes that shrinks areas of the material Shrinkage creates a pucker look Mechanical finish combined with thermal or chemical process to make the finish Method for pleating depends on factors Thermoplastic fibers can be heat set except Acetate Resin is used for cotton Producing fabrics with crinkled or crushed appearance Fabric is either heat set or treated with resin cured o STIFFENING FINISH Non durable finishes such as starch durable finishes like acrylic emulsions Used for crinoline retains stiffness after laundering o DENIM FINISH o Includes several dry wet processing techniques that give garments a used worn o PLISSE o PLEATING permanent o CRINKLING Functional Finishes aka performance finishes vintage or distressed look o Wet Processing o Dry processing holes tears laser burning laser discharge Applied to specific area not the whole abrasive finishes include hand sanding sandblasting brushing destruction include rinsing stone washing chemical washing tinting over dyeing Enhance fabric performance Important for enhancing the performance of natural fibers properties can t be enhanced during fiber production o Natural fibers have to have finishes applied topically manufactured fibers also have topical finishes less expensive but can wear off o For manufactured fibers performance is enhanced during fiber production Chemical finish that have varying degrees of permanence Majority are applied by o Dipping fabric in chemical bath squeezing between rollers o Spraying liquid or foam onto fabric Environmental new application methods are being developed Solar Shield Protection from fading stain spills water damage semi durable product that s a multifunctional finish that protects fabric Nanotechnology molecules of the finishes are attached or associated with fibers at