3 Types of Finishes Routine Aesthetic calendared abrasive Functional Classified based on method of application Chemical Thermal Mechanical FINISHES CALENDERED FINISHES EMBOSSED FINISH MOIRE GLAZING o o o o o o Gives fabric a raised 3D effect texture o Produced by passing the fabric between an engraved roller and a soft surface roller the design from the engraved roller is imprinted on the fabric thus changing the shape Embossed fabrics made with cellulosic fibers are commonly treated with resin to make the design permanent Swatch 111 o Watermark Water stained Wood grain look o o Produced by passing 2 layers of a rib weave fabric between rollers to flatten the ribs in certain areas Swatch 28 Drapery Upholstered furniture Accent cushions Formal gowns Starch Wax or Resin is applied to the fabric Produced by applying starch wax or resin prior to passing the fabric through very smooth rollers that move at a high speed The rollers add luster by flattening the surface of the fabric Most durable if Resin is used Swatch 110 EX GLAZED CHINTZ used for drapery and upholstery fabrics Drapery Upholstery CIRE o Used for thermoplastic fibers o Produced the fabric is passed through high speed heated rollers that spften and polish the surface of the fabric to produce a wet look o Glazed Cire finishes are used to produce fabrics with a gloss or shine on the surface Glazed finish is used for woven cotton fabric Cire is used for fabrics woven with thermoplastic fibers o Swatch 120 Backpacks Sleeping bags Outwear fabrics FLOCKING Method of ornamentation where adhesive is printed or coated on a fabric and finely chopped fibers are applied all over by means of dusting air blasting or electrostatic attraction Fibers only adhere to the printed areas are removed from the unprinted areas by mechanical action o o Water solvent based adhesive are used to glue the fibers to the substrate Swatch 102 116 BURN OUT FINISH Form of Abrasive Aesthetic finishing Design is produced by dissolving a fiber to create a burn out effect o Sometimes classified as printing bc a chemical instead of color is applied to make the design Commonly used on 2 fiber fabrics 1 fiber is easily dissolved by solvent acid 2nd fiber is resistant to that chemical Swatch 114 Form of routine finishing where projecting fibers are mechanically trimmed from fabric face Woolen worsted fabrics are usually sheared SHEARING PARCHMENTIZED FINISH Example of an Aesthetic Finish where chemicals are applied Parchmentization of cellulosic fiber stiffens fabric EX Organdy is produced by parchmentization of lightweight cotton fabric EMBROIDERED FINISH Most expensive embroidering with needle work designs TYPES OF PRINTS APPLIED PRINTS PRINTS Prints where a dye or pigment paste is applied to the surface of a fabric o o Created by Block Roller Screen printing o BLOTCH PRINT o DUPLEX PRINT o OVERPRINT print that has the background pattern printed simultaneously print on both sides of the fabric print where the pattern is printed on previously dyed material Fabric back front have similar dyed background color cost more bc fabrics are dyed printed Pigment Overprint used for printing lighter colored designs on a darker background DISCHARGE PRINTS Prints where the color is removed to create the design o o Used to create prints that have a background darker than the design o Created by Block Roller Screen printing RESIST PRINTS IRON ON TRANSFER Prints made by using techniques to prevent the dye from penetrating the design area of the fabric o o Created by Tie dye Batik IKAT Wax printing mechanized Process that transfers a design from a printed paper to a fabric by applying heat and pressure Is classified as a type of Direct Hand Printing Commonly used for printing apparel T shirts caps tote bags RESIST PRINT TRANSFER PRINT DYEING FABRIC PIECE DYEING Dyeing fabric after it has been constructed o Good for fashion trends due to quick response color decision can be made after manufacturing Economical the most common method of dyeing solid colored fabrics Created by Beck Jet Jig Beam Pad Swatches 27 72 120 YARN DYEING Adds color at the yarn stage o Used when different colored yarns are used in the construction of fabrics EX Plaids Stripes o Full fashioned garments especially those made with manufactured fibers are yarn dyed Provides adequate color absorption penetration for most materials except thick highly twisted yarns Created by Skein Package Beam Space UNION DYEING Dyeing of fabric with 2 or more types of fibers yarns to the same shade results in a solid colored fabric FELT A woven fabric generally made from wool but occasionally from cotton or certain manufactured fibers that is heavily shrunk and fulled making it almost impossible to distinguish the weaves WOVEN FABRICS PLAIN WEAVE BASKET WEAVE Over one yarn under one yarn The face back of a plain weave are the same unless the fabric has been printed or finished on one side 2 or more yarns are used in the warp or filling direction and treated as a set Uses the same interlacing as a plain balanced weave 2 x 1 Half Basket 2 x 2 Basket TWILL WEAVE Fabrics that have prominent diagonal ridges Button Down Shirts Jeans The angle of the diagonal ridges depends on Fabric count Yarn size of warp filling yarns Interlacing patterns Direction of the Twill Left hand diagonal is from upper left to bottom right o o Right hand diagonal is from bottom left to upper right Interlacing Pattern o Uneven sided Twills warp yarn goes over under a different of filling yarns Warp faced Twills Swatches 40 41 Denim Even sided Twills warp yarns pass over under the same of filling yarns A variation of even sided twill where the direction of the twill changes from left to right at regular intervals HERRINGBONE TWILL o o Broken twill pattern is seen on both sides of the fabric HOUNDSOOTH TWILL o Describes a medium sized broken check effect TWEED SERGE o o o An irregular soft unfinished shaggy wool or wool blend fabric made with a 2x2 twill weave Tweeds are used in all types of coat fabrics suitings Any smooth faced cloth with a 2 up 2 down twill weave SATIN WEAVE FABRICS No interlacing only floating over other yarns way to embroider Warp faced fabrics characterized by long floats in the warp or filling direction Woven with smooth lustrous filament yarns for maximum luster on the face of the fabric Swatch 47 Crepe back Satin FIGURE WEAVES Weave where no extra warp or filling yarn is used to create the design 2 types DOBBY WEAVE Small simple