Exam 3 Study Guide Chapter 18 Knits Know knitting terminology Stitch Course Wale Gauge o Each loop in a knit fabric o Rows of loops across width of fabric o Columns of loops across length of fabric o Number of stitches per inch across the width of the fabric o Ex 10 stitches across the width its gauge is 1 10 Stitch density o Number of stitches loops per square inch o Multiply course and wales rows and columns of stitches Know the difference between weft knitting and warp knitting Weft knitting direction o Knits in which the yarns interlace crosswise horizontal Ex Jersey rib purl missed fleece jersey Ex Filling knits Warp knitting o Knits in which the yarns interlace in a vertical direction Ex Tricot raschel Be able to recognize diagrams of both Know two basic weft knitting stitches knit and purl Knit o Make a garment by interlocking rows of loops called stitches o As each row progresses a new loop is pulled through an existing loop o The active stitches are hld on a needle until another loop can be passed through tem Purl o Filling knit loops go behind the loop above it o High crosswise and lengthwise stretch o Small quantities of fabric made in purl knit o High crosswise and lengthwise stretch o Basically to knit with a reverse stitch how can they can be combined Rib stitching is how they can be combined o Lengthwise ribs formed by wales alternating on face and back of fabric o Made by alternating knit and purl stitches o Greater elasticity in the width than length o Stable does not curl or stretch o Often used for cuffs and necklines Know knitted fabrics structures Jersey o All of the loops look the same and are meshed in the same manner o Wales show on the face and the courses show on the back o Most easily distorted of all knits o Edges curl Purl Rib o Filling knit loops go behind the loop above it o High crosswise and lengthwise stretch o Small quantities of fabric made in purl knit o High crosswise and lengthwise stretch of fabric o Made by alternating knit and purl stitches o Greater elasticity in the width than length o Stable does not curl or stretch o Often used for cuffs and necklines Jacquard o Lengthwise ribs formed by wales alternating on face and back o A fabric made on a loop with such a device with an intricate variegated pattern o The device facilitates the weaving of figured and brocaded o In order to create a design effect a stitch may be missed in a regular pattern Know how fake fur and pile knits are made Sliver knit pile Loose fiber from sliver gets knitted into back ground fabric which is fabrics Missed Stitch often olefin Sliver o a continuous strand of loosely assembled fibers that is fairly uniform and without twist Know the two types of warp knit Tricot o Doesn t ravel can curl o Almost no stretch in lengthwise direction o Technical face looks like jersey knit o Technical back crosswise lines often more smooth than face technical back often used as right side because its smoother for printing o Crosswise ribs on back of the fabric Fabric made Raschel o Any weight or thickness o Pillar and inlay effect is a common feature o Columns of loops are connected by inlaid yarns traversing from column to column up the fabric Fabric made Anything from lace to carpet Know how the fibers for nonwovens are put in position Know examples of the means for bonding consolidating the fibers Dry forming Wet forming Mechanical o Needle punching needles o Spun lacing other o Stitch bonding Not on exam Thermal The web is fed into a machine with bed of barbed Needles move in and out of web entangling fibers High speed jets of water hitting fibrous web bind fibers together by causing them to knot or curl around each o Thermoplastic fibers may be bonded by heat o Application of heat causes the fusing together of heat sensitive fibers o Heat may be applied in a pattern to provide sufficient bonding for durability and allow greater flexibility and softness Spun bonding web o Filaments are blown onto a moving belt where they form a o As the still hot and partially molten filaments touch they bond o Strong o Filament fibers are not easily torn o Uses carpet backing apparel interlining geo textiles o Applying an adhesive material to the web and then setting the Chemical adhesive o Glues the fibers together Solvent o A method of making nonwoven fabrics in which a solvent is used to soften the fiber surfaces in a web or batt hence cause Know some durable and non durable uses for nonwovens bonding Durable o Multi use Geo textiles Imitation fur Upholstery backing Wall covering backing Interfacing Disposable o Thrown away after one use Diapers Tea bags Examination gowns Wipes Dental bibs Know that felt was the earliest non woven made mechanically bonded Chapter 20 Other Fabric Construction Methods Know the basic compound or multicomponent fabrics and how they are made Basic compound Stitch bonded fabrics o Fiber webs are stitched through to hold the fibers together o One component is a fiber web yarns or preformed fabric o The other is a series of stitches thathold it together Warp and filling yarns laid loosely one over the other Third set of yarns stitches the warp and weft yarns together less expensive than weaving o Used for mechanically bonding nonwovens Multi component fabrics Tufted fabrics o A type of textile weaving in which a thread is inserted on a o It is an ancient technique for making warm garments primary base especially mittens o After the knitting is done short u shaped loops of extra yarn are introduced through the fabric from the outside so that their ends point inwards o Two components fabric base yarn that decorates it o 3 parts filling material batting two layers of decorative o provides good thermal insulation because inner layer traps air Face fabric is joined to a backing fabric with an adhesive that doesn t add much thickness Face fabric joined to a continuous sheet material in such a way that identity of SM is retained May or may not be joined on back with another fabric o Short fibers are adhered to surface of fabric to give illusion of Embroidery Quilted Fabrics outer fabric Laminated Bonded o Bonded o Laminated Flocked Fabrics pile fabric o Adhesive used on base fabric o Flock is applied mechanically or electrostatically Coated Fabrics o Fabrics coated with thin polymer films o Provide protection from water chemicals weather o Simulate leather or other materials Ultrasuede o Composed of polyester microfibers o Nonwoven web is mechanically bonded by needle