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CTE 1401C FINAL EXAM STUDY GUIDE:Finishes: An IntroductionFinishing:• Often the last step before the product reaches the consumer.• The term finishing sometimes also includes coloration.• Finishing is usually performed on “greige goods”- fabrics that have just come off the weaving or knitting machine with no “finishing processes”.Application of finishes• Topical – after the product is made. Must be on natural products made from natural fibers. Generally used on most consumer products. Least expensive way.• Solution – applied in the solution for the manufactured fibers.Finishes• Permanent• Durable• TemporaryPermanent Finishes• Last the lifetime of the product• Usually permanently set in the product• Often utilize characteristics of synthetic fabricsHeat-sensitive fibers subjected to finishes involving heat treatmentDurable Finishes• Usually have a certain lifespan• Involves resin (chemical) or mechanical treatmentsTemporary Finishes• Removed after one or two launderings or dry cleanings• Starch finishCalendering• 61B, 61A• Mechanical finish• Pass fabrics between a series of two or more rollers• Purpose- smooth fabric or create interesting surface effectsTypes of Calendaring• Simple• Glazing• Cire´ing• Embossing• Schreinering• MoiréSimple Calendering• Dampened cloth passed between the heated cylinders• Smoothes & flattens the yarns & fabric• Produces wrinkle-free, slightly glossy finishCalendar Finishing MachineCalendered FabricGlazing• Fabric saturated with starch or resin• Dried slightly• Fed into machine with rapidly moving, heated roller• Polishes fabric• Fabric examples: chintz or polished cotton• #59B, 59ACire’ingHigh surface polish“the wet look”Natural fibers- waxes or resinsFabrics made with thermoplastic fibers- fuse slightly under heat of rollers#58B, 58AEmbossing• Pressing a pattern onto fabrics• Permanent when applied to thermoplastic fibers• Durable when applied to fabrics with resin treatment• Temporary on other fabrics • #67B, 67AEmbossing RollsSchreinering• Produces fabrics with soft luster & soft hand• One of calender rolls embossed with 250 fine diagonal lines per inch• Flattens yarns• Examples: damask, cotton sateenSchreinering ProcessMoiré• Watered or clouded appearance• Ribbed fabrics- taffeta & faille• Two lengths of same fabric placed face-to-face with one slightly off-grain• Enormous pressure by smooth moiré rollers• #66B, #66Moire fabric• Pillow made using moire finished fabricOther Surface Finishes• Beetling• Sueding• NappingBeetling• Linen or cotton intended to look like lustrous linen• Fabric is pounded (machine with hammers)• Flattens yarns & makes them more lustrous Sueding• Fiber ends are brushed up onto fabric surface to achieve low pile• Applied to woven & knitted fabrics• Sueding (sanding) -abrasive material used• Sample #8Napping• Fiber ends are brushed up onto fabric surface to achieve deeper pile• Usually made from fabrics with low twist yarns• Machine with hook like projections catch fibers & pull them to fabric surface• #63B #63ANapped Fabric• Blankets• Sleepwear• Sweaters• Warm active wear Brushing• Fabrics made from staple fibers may be brushed to remove loose fiber from fabric surface• Brushed denim• Brushed tricot• #64B, #64ADesign Finishes• Burn-out designs - chemicals dissolve some of the fibers, while leaving others unharmed• #100 Design Finishes• Plisse’ - puckered effect • Created by imprinting chemicals that cause fabric to shrink in imprinted areas• Other area does not shrink• ##67B, #67A Parchmentizing• Permanent stiffening of cotton• Application of acid solution causes surface of yarns to soften• Afterwash in cold water causes yarn surface to harden permanently• #73B, #73AFunctional Finishes• Finishes that enhance performance of material.• Most are not visible.Objectives• List the various finishes and describe their effect on performance of fab-rics.Functional Finish Terminology• Repellent or retardant or resistant– (example, water repellent or flame resistant)– Slows down the process whether it is burning, wetting, etc. but does not completelystop process• …….Proof – such as waterproof, flameproof.– Completely blocks process such as burning, wetting.Stage at which finishes are added• Topical – added after material is made (all natural fibers and some manufactured fibers)• Solution – added in solution when fiber is manufactured. More expensive; must bond withother chemicalsWater Repellence and Waterproof• Water repellent – fabrics resist penetration by water but are not completely waterproof• Accomplished by chemical finishes and/or fabric constructionWaterproof• Water droplets cannot penetrate.• By coating with plastic or rubber• By use of unique fabric construction such as in Gore-tex.Soil and Stain Repellent• Topical finishes that resist penetration by water and oil-based stains, food, dirt• Two examples are Scotchgard and ZepelSoil Release Finishes• Developed for hydrophobic fibers that absorb and hold soil, particularly oil-based stains• Finishes make the fiber more hydrophilic so the water and detergent can get into the fabric(fibers) and release the soil/stainAnti-static Finishes• Conditions for static electric charge build-up are cool, dry environment• Manufactured fibers build up static electric charges because they are hydrophobic and do not allow conduction of electrical chargesAnti-static finishes• Healthy adult human body can tolerate about 5000 volts (5kV)of electrical charges• In some areas, that is too much for safety• In sensitive areas where there might be life-sustaining equipment or other electronics, the maximum allowable is 3500 v (3.5kV)• In areas where there would life-threatening situations the maximum allowable is 2500 vAnti-static finishes• Anti-static finishes work by making the material a better conductor of electrical charges• This often means the material must become more absorbentWebsite• www.fabriclink.com Anti-bacterial/anti-microbial finishes• Inhibit the growth of bacteria on materials• Often used in health care products, hotel/restaurant industry, home furnishings, athletic productsAnti mildew/anti-rot• Mold, mildew and fungus will grow on some textile materials when they are in a damp en-vironment.


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FSU CTE 1401C - FINAL EXAM STUDY GUIDE

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