CTE 1401 Final Exam Study GuidePage 16 textile fiber categories:Natural FibersCellulose:seed hair- cottonBast- flax, ramie, jute, kenaf, hempleaf & other- agave, coir, yuccaBurning behavior: cotton & flax- doesn’t shrink or fuse, burns rapidly, doesn’t melt, continues to burn with an afterglow, doesn’t self-extinguish, grey-feathery ashProtein:animal hair- wool, cashmere, mohairextruded- silkBurning behavior:silk & wool- curls, doesn’t fuse, burns slowly, doesn’t melt, doesn’t self-extinguish, grey-feathery ashManufactured FibersRegenerated:cellulose- viscose rayon, lyocell, acetate, triacetateprotein- azlonBurning behavior: rayon & lyocell- doesn’t shrink or fuse, burns rapidly, doesn’t melt, doesn’t self-extinguish, grey-feathery ashAcetate- shrinks & fuses, melts, burns, doesn’t self-extinguish, brittle, black beadTriacetate- shrinks & fuses, burns & melts, doesn’t self-extinguish, hard beadInorganic:glass- doesn’t burn!!synthetic (thermoplastic)- nylon, aramid, polyester, acrylic, modacrylic, olefin, spandex Burning behavior:Spandex- doesn’t shrink, fuses, burns & melts, doesn’t self-extinguish, soft, black ashOlefin- shrinks & fuses, burns & melts, self-extinguishes, hard, tan beadModacrylic- shrinks & fuses, burns slowly, melts, self-extinguishes, brittle, black, hard beadAcrylic- shrinks & fuses, burns & melts, self-extinguishes, brittle, black, hard beadPolyester- shrinks & fuses, burns slowly, melts, self-extinguishes, hard, black beadNylon- shrinks & fuses, burns slowly, melts, self-extinguishes, hard grey or tan beadFederal Trade Commission (FTC): laws which regulate labeling of textile products. Include apparel, carpets, rugs, upholstery, window coveringsConsumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC): CPSC is charged with protecting the public from unreasonable risks of injury or death associated with the use of the thousands of types of consumer products under the agency's jurisdiction. CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard. CPSC's work to ensure the safety of consumer products - such as toys, cribs, power tools, cigarette lighters, and household chemicalsNational Fire Protection Association (NFPA): reduce the worldwide burden of fire and other hazards on the quality of life by providing and advocating consensus codes and standards, research, training, and education.The world's leading advocate of fire prevention and an authoritative source on public safety, NFPA develops, publishes, and disseminates more than 300 consensus codes and standards intended to minimize the possibility and effects of fire and other risks.American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA): the national trade association representing apparel, footwear and other sewn products companies, and their suppliers, which compete in the global market. The trusted public policy and political voice of the apparel and footwear industry, its management and shareholders, its four million U.S. workers, and its contribution of $350 billion in annual U.S. retail sales.Oeko-Tex: Oeko-Tex Standard 100 or Öko-Tex Standard 100 is an international testing and certification system for textiles, limiting the use of certain chemicals. It was developed in 1992. Being certified by Oeko-Tex indicates the business is not using any of the Restricted Substances in its products.American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC): The Association continues to evolve to meet the needs of those in the ever-changing textile and materials industries. AATCC is internationally recognized for its standard methods of testing fibers and fabrics to measure and evaluate such performance characteristics as colorfastness, appearance, soil release, dimensional change, and water resistance.ASTM: Flame Resistance- “the property of a material whereby flaming combustion is prevented, terminated or inhibited following application of a source of ignition.”Chapter 24:What is the difference between aesthetic and functional finishes?A: aesthetic: affects the appearance or hand of the textilefunctional: affects the performance of the textile -often not visible-may be topical (only on the surface) or absorbed into the fiber-affects performance of textile, some are applied at fiber or yarn level, effect the end product but may be put on at different stageex. wrinkle resistance, fire resistance, waterproofing, antimicrobial finishes, anti-staticHow are finishes classified based on how long they remain in or on the fabric?A: permanent finishes- last the lifetime of the product, usually permanently set in the product, often utilize characteristics of synthetic fabrics, heat-sensitive fibers subjected to finishes involving heat treatment, many are in solution, don’t wear offdurable finishes- usually have a certain lifespan, involves resin(chemical) or mechanical treatments, chemical you can’t see, mechanical you can see, may or may not say how long life span istemporary finishes- removed after one or two launderings or dry cleanings, starch finish, many are part of manufacturing processWhat types of fibers can be heat-set permanently? A: synthetic fibers, heat-sensitive fibers subjected to finishes involving heat treatment, in solutionHow can a durable finish be applied to a natural fiber?A: chemical (resin) or mechanical treatmentAre there any types of finishes that can be applied at home by the consumer?A: Chemicals that affect fabric hand- “hand builders” Soil and stain repellency- Scothcgard, ZepelWhat is a calendar? A friction calendar? An embossing calendar?A: calendar:-mechanical finish-pass fabrics between a series of two or more rollerspurpose- smooth fabric or create interesting surface effects-may or may not be permanent-very high pressure so the rollers press the fabrics- sometimes has a design on it, sometimes flatten them-sometimes add chemicals, sometimes add heatembossing calendar:-pressing a pattern onto fabrics-permanent when applied to thermoplastic fibers-durable when applied to fabrics with resin treatment-temporary on other fabrics-has a certain lifespan-durable How is fabric polished, glazed or cired?A: glazed:-fabric saturated with starch or resin -dried slightly-fed into machine with rapidly moving, heated roller-polishes fabric-usually put into calendaring rolls-something added to it to polish, not just the machine-ex. chintz or polished cottoncired:-high surface polishing-”the wet