03 30 2015 03 30 2015 CTE 1401 Exam 3 Study Guide 03 30 2015 Wovens Continued Complex Weaves Pile Weaves Woven pile fabric produced by inserting an extra set of warp or filling yarns during the weaving process to create a raised fuzzy surface The raised surface created by loops of the extra yarns or the pile resulting from cutting the loops can be either on one or both sides of the base fabric Examples o Velvet pile Woven with an extra set of warp yarns that create the Traditionally woven with silk filament yarns but now other filament yarns such as rayon acetate nylon and polyester are also used to manufacture velvet Fabrics that are traditionally woven with an extra set of filling spun yarns that creates the pile o Velveteen o Corduroy Filling pile fabrics in which the extra set of filling yarns form floats that are cut to create the pile Ridges or cords known as wales along the length of the fabric are characteristics of corduroys Higher the number of wales per inch Finer fabric o Terrycloth Uncut pile fabrics also known as loops manufactured with an extra set of warp yarns to create the loop by slack tension method Typically has pile on both sides of the fabric In velour towels or robes the loops are shared on one or both sides of the fabric to enhance the appearance and softness Used in towels Jacquard weaves Combination of two or more basic weaves Figure weaves with large repeats or non repeating designs with curves More than 25 different yarn interlacing arrangements before the design repeats Most commonly used in upholstery Examples o Brocade o Damask o Tapestry Dobby weave Figure weave Fabric with small simple geometric designs that have straight lines in at least one direction Typically have fewer than 25 different yarn interlacing arrangements before the design repeats Design motif in a dobby weave fabric may be spaced out on a plain twill or satin background or appear as an allover design o Waffle weave o Huck or huckaback o FALSE T F All dobby weaves are made with spun yarns Spot weaves Requires an extra set of warp and filling yarns to create the design Divided into 2 categories o Clipped spot cut fringe The floating yarns are cut between motifs forming a The fringe generally appears on the back of the fabric but the fringe can appear on the face of the fabric for design purposes Examples Eyelash Dotted swiss o Unclipped spot uncut The floating yarns between motifs are not cut Leno weave Fabrics produced by crossing pairs of warp yarns or sets of warp yarns prior to inserting the filling or set of filling yarns through the shed during the weaving process Warp yarns form a figure 8 around the filling yarns as they cross over to hold the filling yarns in place Used to weave fabric with open construction Examples o Drapery Casement o Marquissette Crepe weave Created using crepe twist yarns very high twist in the warp and filling direction of plain or satin weave fabrics Pepply surface is a resort of the distortion of the fabric by the over twisted crepe yarns Examples o Wool crepe o Polyester crepe o Contract upholstery crepe Slack tension seersucker Created on looms with 2 warp beams The warp yarns on one beam are held at regular tension whereas the tension of the yarns on the other beam is reduced to give fabrics a puckered look o Crepe twist only in warp direction Knits Stitch Course Wale A single loop of yarn around a needle The row of loops or stitches running across a knit fabric corresponding to the filling in woven fabrics A column of loops lying lengthwise in the fabric The number of wales per inch is a measure of the fineness of the fabric o Higher Wales per inch Finer fabric Gauge The number of needles per given distance in a knitting machine The higher the gauge the finer the knit Stitch Density Course x Wale Number of stitches loops per square inch Weft Knits One continuous thread yarn runs crosswise in the fabric making all of the loops in one course o Yarns are interloped in the horizontal weft or filling direction Hand knitting needles circular knitting machines and flat machines are used to produce these types of knits Used extensively for apparel such as T shirts sweaters active wear and hosiery Generally stretch more than warp yarns can unravel Types of Weft Knits o Jersey o Rib o Purl o Variations o Double Weft o Knit stitch 2 Basic weft knitting stitches Stitch in which the lower part of the loop V shape appears on the fabric face and horizontal ridges appear on the fabric back Also known as plain stitch Used for jersey knits Most commonly used stitch o Purl stitch appears on the fabric back Opposite of knit stitch o How can they be combined To produce rib and purl knits Stitch in which the top half of the loop semicircle Warp Knits Yarns are interloped in the vertical warp direction Manufactured on knitting machines with warp beam similar to the one used for weaving o Cannot be produced by hand Do not unravel but can get holes Used extensively for lingerie netting and raschel lace curtains 2 Types o Tricot Produced on flat knitting machines with relatively uniform smooth or textured filament yarns Most common most basic Zigzags vertically to form wale Does not unravel split or run as the loops are formed by interlacing with adjacent yarns Basic tricots have vertical v shaped stitches on the technical back of the fabric Types of Tricot Knits Brushed Tricot Satin Tricot Tricot Net Uses Lingerie Swimwear Children ladies sleepwear Lining for inexpensive comforters Imitation suede o Raschel Basic raschel knits consist of one set of yarns that produce a pillar stitch which resembles a chain stitch and other yarns that fill in the area between the pillars Uses Swimwear Active wear Table linen Shower curtains Bandages Car seats Bags for fruits vegetables Knitted Fabric Structures Jersey Also known as a single or plain knit Characterized by the V shaped knit stitches Wales on the face and semicircular loops Courses on the back of the fabric Simplest type of weft knit Requires least amount of yarn knitting Have a tendency to form vertical runs and if one of the loops is broken during stitching or using the whole line of wales comes unlooped ex a run in a pair of pantyhose Reversible knit characterized by semicircular shapes that form waves on both sides of the fabric Created by alternating one row of knit one row of purl stitch Semicircular purl stitch is more visible than the v shaped knit stitch Relatively more expensive Used for winter scarves as it is