Final Exam reviewBased on in class discussionFinishesMostly after the fabric is madeLat step before product reaches the consumerSometimes includes colorationFinishing is usually performed on “greige goods”Greige goods: fabrics that have just come off the weaving or knitting machine with no finishing processesTwo points when finishes are applied:Topical: after the product is mademust be on natural fibersGenerally used on consumer productsLeast expensiveSolution: applied in the solution for the manufactured fibersMore expensiveFinishesPermanent: last lifetime of the product (disposable health, flame retardantUsually permanently set in the productOften utilize characteristics of synthetic fabricsDurable: have a certain lifespanInvolves resin(chemical) or mechanical treatmentsFlame retardant (Have to be effective for about 50 laundry cycles)Temporary: removed after on eor two launderings or dry cleaningsStarch finishWhen you flatten a round yarn, doesn’t matter if its synthetic or natural, it changes the way the light reflects of its surface, making them look glossy and makes it more wrinkle-freeCalendering typesCalendaring: mechanical finishPass fabrics bw a series of two or more rollersPurpose: smooth fabric or create interesting surface effectsTypes:1. Simple:Dampened cloth passed bw the heated cylindersSmoothes and flattens the yarns and fabricProduces wrinkle-free, slightly glossy finish2. GlazingFabric saturated with starch or resinDried slightlyFed into machine with rapidly moving heated rollerPolishes fabricEx: chintz or polished cotton3. Cire’ing:High surface polish“the wet look”Natural fibers- waxes or resinsFabrics made with thermoplastic fibers-fuse slightly under the heat of rollersEx: back in the 70s for raincoats, 4. EmbossingPressing a pattern onto fabrics (roller has design on it)Permanent when applied to thermoplastic (heat rollers with design)Durable when applied to fabrics with resin treatmentTemp on other fabrics5. SchreineringProduces fabrics with soft luster and soft handOne of calendar rolls embossed with 250 fine diagonal lines per inchFlattens yarnsEx: damask, 6. MoireWatered or clouded appearanceRibbed fabrics: taffeta and failleTwo lengths of same fabric places face-to-face with one slightly off grainEnormous pressure by smooth moire rollersOther surface finishes1. BeetlingLinen or cotton intended to look like lustrous linenFabric is pounded (machine with hammers)Flattens the yarns and makes them more lustrous2. SuedingFiber ends are brushed up onto fabric surface to achieve low pileApplied to woven and knitted fabricsSueding (sanding)-abrasive material used3. NappingFiber ends are brushed up onto fabric surface to achieve deeper pileUsually made from fabrics with low twist yarnsMachine with hook like projections catch fibers and pull them to fabric surfaceEx: flannelBrushingFabrics made from staple fibers may be brushed to remove loose fiber from fabric surfaceBrushed denimBrushed tricotMakes it softerDesign finishesBurn-out designs: chemicals dissolve some of the fibers, while leaving other unharmedMust be a blend (bc one will be dissolved)Plisse: puckered effect (looks like searsucker)Created by imprinting chemicals that cause fabric to shrink in imprinted areasOther area does not shrinkPermanentParchmentizing:Permanent stiffening of cottonApplication of acid solution (hydrochloric acid) causes surface of yarns to softenAfterwash in cold water causes yarn surface to harden permanently Functional finishesFinishes that enhance performance of materialMost aren’t visibleRepellent/retardant/resistant:Slows down process whether its burning wetting etc.But doesn’t completely stop the processEx: water repellent or flame resistantProof: completely blocks processes such as burning, wetting etc.Ex: such as waterproof or flameproofStages at which finishes are added1. topical: added after material is made (all natural fibers and some manufactured)2. solution: added in solution when fiber is manufacturedMore expensive, must bond with other chemicalsWater repellence and WaterproofWater repellent: fabrics resist penetration by water but are not completely waterproofBy chemical finishes and fabric constructionWaterproof: no liquid water can penetrate the fabricBy coating fabric or by using microscopic holes that allow water vapor to go through but not water dropsex: gore-texsoil and stain repellenttopical finishes that resist penetration by water and oil-based stains, food and dirtex: scotchgard, zepelsoil release finishesdevelop for hydrophobic fibers that absorb and hold soil, particularly oil-based stainsfinishes make the fiber more hydrophilic so the water and detergent can get into the fabric/fibers and release the soil/stainantistatic finishesconditions for static electric charge build up are cool, dry environmentmanufactured fibers build up static bc they are hydrophobic and don’t allow conduction of electric chargeantistatic info: a healthy adult human body can tolerate about 5000 volts of elec chargecan be too much for safetyin sensitive areas with life sustaining equipment or other electronics, max allowable is 3500 voltsin life threatening situations the max is 2500 voltsanti-static finishes:work by making the material a better conductor of charge by making it more absorbentanti-bacterial/anti-microbial finishes:inhibit growth of bacteriaex: use in health care, hotel/restaurant, home furnishings, athletic productsanti-mildew/anti-rot finishes:mold, mildew and fungus grow on some textile materials in a damp environmentcellulosics may be damaged beyond repair/stainedsun protective finishes:the incidence of skin cancer and melanoma is increasing ratesun emits UVA and UVB that are harmful to skin, people who suffer sunburns and extended exposure often develop skin cancerfibers: manufactured fibers such as polyester provide most skin protectionfabrics: with tight construction (woven not knit) and color rather than white provide most protectionsun protective finishes are the fastest growing in research bc it is health relatedwrinkle resistant finishes:used mainly on cellulosicschemicals applied which bond in amorphous areas in the fibers and develop stronger bonds giving the fibers a memory that cause fabric to return to its unwrinkled positionfirst finishes available in late 1940s but used more in 1960sfashions changed and finishing process caused problems with the durability of the garments (pilling, abrasion and yellowing)ex: “durable