CTE 1401 Exam 3 Study Guide 03 30 2015 Wovens Continued Complex Weaves Pile Weaves Woven pile fabric produced by inserting an extra set of warp or filling yarns during the weaving process to create a raised fuzzy surface The raised surface created by loops of the extra yarns or the pile resulting from cutting the loops can be either on one or both sides of the base fabric Defined by the direction in which the extra set of yarns is inserted to form loops or floats warp pile or filling pile or by the type of raised surface loops or cut pile o Examples of warp pile fabrics o Examples of weft pile fabrics Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Corduroy Examples o Velvet the pile Woven with an extra set of warp yarns that create Traditionally woven with silk filament yarns but now other filament yarns such as rayon acetate nylon and polyester are also used to manufacture velvet Most are double cloth fabrics with two layers separated by cutting the pile down the center Examples Pann Pile pressed in 1 direction Devor Burn out finish Crinkle Crushed velvets o Velveteen Fabrics that are traditionally woven with an extra set of filling spun yarns that creates the pile Traditionally an extra set of filling yarns is woven as floats The floats are then cut to create the pile Now some fabrics sold as velveteen fabrics are produced with an extra set of spun yarns used in the warp direction o Corduroy Filling pile fabrics in which the extra set of filling yarns form floats that are cut to create the pile Cut float yarns Ridges or cords known as wales along the length of the fabric are characteristics of corduroys The number of wales per inch 8 wale 10 wale 16 wale or width of the wales widewale pinwale featherwale are used to describe corduroys Higher the number of wales per inch Finer fabric o Terrycloth Uncut pile fabrics also known as loops manufactured with an extra set of warp yarns to create the loop by slack tension method Terry toweling quality cost and durability depend on weave type plain or twill count of base cloth and loop characteristics Typically has pile on both sides of the fabric In velour towels or robes the loops are sheared on one or both sides of the fabric to enhance the appearance and softness Used in towels rugs cleaning stuff Loosely twisted loops increase a fabric s ability to absorb water FIGURE Novelty WEAVES Combinations of basic weaves plain satin twill that DO NOT require extra warp or filling yarns to create the design o Built into preexisting yarn A variety of designs and textures are created by varying the fiber or yarn Two most common types o Dobby weaves o Jacquard weaves Jacquard weaves Combination of two or more basic weaves Figure weaves with large repeats or non repeating designs More than 25 different yarn interlacing arrangements before the Each yarn is controlled independently to create intricate designs Most commonly used in upholstery Examples with curves design repeats o Brocade o Damask o Tapestry Dobby weave Figure weave Fabric with small simple geometric designs that have straight lines in at least one direction Typically have fewer than 25 different yarn interlacing arrangements before the design repeats Created with a dobby attachment that selectively raises and lowers the yarns to create the design Design motif may be spaced out on a plain twill or satin background Or design may appear as an allover design for example o Waffle weave o Huck or huckaback o FALSE T F All dobby weaves are made with spun yarns Pique Weaves the fabric bulk Raised areas that are visible on the fabric loosely woven floats on Stuffer yarns are sometimes used to make the fabric weight and o Make raised areas more prominent o They are laid in between warp and filling yarns but not woven into the fabric o Can be pulled without affecting the integrity of the fabric Most piqu s are woven with a dobby attachment o Jacquard looms are used to produce more complicated designs Examples o Pinwale pique o Birdseye pique SURFACE FIGURE WEAVES Requires extra warp and or filling yarns which are inserted during the weaving process to create design 3 types o Spot most common o Swivel o Lappet Length of float depends on design Common uses for these types of fabric o Apparel Upholstery Spot weaves Requires an extra set of warp and filling yarns to create the design o Extra yarn is inserted for the entire length or width of the fabric floating from one motif to another appearing on the back of the fabric when not interlaced on the front Base weave of a spot weave may be plain twill or satin as well as dobby jacquard or double weave Divided into 2 categories o Clipped spot cut The floating yarns are cut between motifs forming a fringe The fringe generally appears on the back of the fabric but the fringe can appear on the face of the fabric for design purposes Good for patterns that are far apart Examples Eyelash Dotted swiss o Unclipped spot uncut The floating yarns between motifs are not cut Don t show fringe In some fabrics more common in apparel floating yarns are very short because the motifs are close together In upholstery fabric where the back of the fabric is coated even long floating yarns are left uncut to enhance fabric durability Uncut yarns resist snagging Example Drapery Fabric Swivel Weaves Requires extra set of filling yarns to form the design o 1 uncut filling yarn Same filling yarn is used to produce the entire motif No fringe present just uncut floating yarns Difference between spot swivel weaves o Spot can be cut also requires warp yarn o Swivel only filling yarn uncut Similar to swivel weaves but requires an extra set of warp yarns to Lappet weaves create design o 1 warp yarn DOUBLE CLOTH FABRICS Divided into 3 categories based on the number of sets of yarns used to produce the fabrics o Double cloth Fabrics constructed with 5 sets of yarns Requires the most yarns 2 fabrics are woven simultaneously each with 2 sets of 5th set is a binder set that holds the 2 fabrics yarns together Examples Double Cloth o Double weave sets total Fabrics constructed with 2 sets of warp filling yarns 4 The 2 fabrics are woven simultaneously and have some areas where the warp and or filling yarns from one set are interlaced with the other 2 separate fabrics on edges The face and back layers cannot be separated without destroying the integrity of the fabric Flipped reverse color on the inside 2 design motifs made into 1 Examples Matelasse Pocket Cloth A puckered surface Double weave fabric o Double