Chapter 18 Knits Stitch each loop in a knit fabric Course the series of successive loops lying crosswise of a knitted fabric that is laying at right angles to a line passing through the open throat to the closed end of the loops Wale a column of loops in successive courses that are parallel with the loop axis Gauge number of stitches per inch across the width of the fabric usually expressed in a fraction o For example if there are 10 stitches across the width the gauge is 10 or o The higher the gauge the closer the stitches Stitch density number of stitches loops per square inch multiply courses x 1 10 wales Weft filling knits knits in which the yarns interlace crosswise Ex Jersey Rib Purl Missed Stitch Warp knits knits in which the yarns interlace in a vertical direction Ex Tricot Raschel Types of Weft Knits Jersey knit o Most easily distorted stretched of all knits o Edges curl o More stretch in crosswise than lengthwise direction o Fits the body closely o Often used with technical back as the right side of fabric Purl Knit o Filling knit loops go behind the loop above it Rows vary between over and under etc o High crosswise lengthwise stretch o Small quantities of fabric made in purl knit Row 1 under Row 2 over Row 3 under Row 4 over Rib Knit o Lengthwise ribs formed by wales alternating on face back of fabric o Made by alternating knit and purl stitches o Greater elasticity in the width than length o Stable do not curl or stretch out of shape o Often used on cuffs necklines o Machine knitting with a jacquard attachment that makes patterns by the Jacquard use of colored yarns Missed Stitch o In order to create a design effect a stitch may be missed in a regular pattern Knit vs Purl Fake fur Pile knits how it is made While the knitting is taking place a sliver of staple fiber is fed into the machine These fibers are caught in the tight knit are held firmly in place Although any staple fiber can be used for the pile the greatest quantities of these fabrics are made with acrylic and modacrylic fibers in a pile o Usually knitted by a jersey machine Types of Warps Knits Tricot made with two sets of threads fine vertical wales on the face o Doesn t ravel can curl o Almost no stretch in lengthwise direction o Technical face looks like jersey knit o Technical back crosswise lines often more smooth than the face o Technical back often used as right side because it s smoother for printing o Crosswise ribs on the back of the fabric o Like chevrons on their sides because of zigzag patterns of the yarns Raschel columns of loops are connected by in laid yarns traversing from column to column up the fabric o Any weight or thickness o From lace carpet o Pillar inlay effect common feature o Open structures Looks like lace Decorative Chapter 19 Nonwoven Fabrics Nonwovens fiber web knitting etc Nonwovens are fabrics made directly from fibers bypassing spinning weaving Many utilize thermoplastic fibers First nonwoven was interfacing in the apparel industry Nonwovens are made without yarns o Made with fibers Produced by bonding or interlocking of fibers or both Accomplished by mechanical chemical thermal or solvent means Fiber Web Formation Dry forming processes are carding also called dry laying or wet forming Carded webs are made in a manner similar to the process for slivers for yarn spinning except that the thin film of fibers removed from the card is not drawn together on a sliver but is laid onto a conveyor o Used for staple fibers Wet forming similar to paper making in that a mixture of fibers in water is collected on a screen drained and dried o Used for staple fibers Fiber Bonding Mechanical fiber webs produced by dry laying methods may be joined by entangling or stitching the fibers in some way o Needlepunching o Spunlacing o Stitchbonding Thermal nonwoven webs made of or containing thermoplastic fibers may be bonded by heat The application of heat causes the fusing together of the heat sensitive fibers which effectively fastens them together o Most use calendar rolls Spunbonding o Filaments are blown onto a moving belt where they form a web o As the still hot partially molten filaments touch they bond When thermoplastic fibers gets to a certain temperature they start to melt and bond when they cool o Spunbonded fabrics Strong Filament fibers are not easily torn Uses carpet backing apparel interlinings geotextiles textile products generally used outside Chemical o Applying an adhesive material to the web then setting the adhesive o Glues the fibers together Solvent a process in which the fibers to be joined are treated with a solvent Durable multi use Geotextiles Interfacing Insulated clothing Imitation fur Upholstery backing Wall covering backing Diapers Tea bags Examination gowns Wipes Dental bibs Disposable thrown away after one use Felt Traditionally felt has been wool today is often other fibers True felting is an entanglement of a mass of fibers that wakes place by a combination of heat moisture pressure Chapter 20 Other Fabric Construction Methods Tufted fabrics made from a process of punching a first component loops of yarn through a second component a woven or nonwoven backing material Embroidery the use of yarns applied with a needle in a variety of stitches to o Made from two components 1 fabric base and 2 the yarn that form a decorative pattern decorates it Quilted fabrics o Composed of three parts Filling material batting Two layers of decorative outer fabric Sometimes just 2 layers the bottom layer is a nonwoven fabric o Provide good thermal insulation because inner layer traps air o Fill layer today usually made from polyester o In the past made from cotton batting o Layers are joined together by Quilting stitches either hand or machine made Bonding with adhesive Ultrasonic method using sound waves to generate heat Bonded face fabric is joined to a backing fabric like tricot with an adhesive that doesn t add much thickness Laminated face fabric joined to a continuous sheet material in such a way that identity of SM is retained may or may not be joined on back with another fabric Flocked Fabrics short fibers are adhered to surface of fabric to give illusion of pile fabric o Adhesive used on base fabric o Flock is applied mechanically or electrostatically Coated fabrics fabrics coated with thin polymer films polyvinyl chloride polyurethane o Provide protection water chemicals weather o Similar leather or other materials Ultrasuede suede type fabric o Multicomponent