Chapter 24 Physical and Mechanical Finishes 1401 EXAM STUDY GUIDE PART 1 What is the difference between aesthetic and functional finishes Aesthetic affect the appearance texture or dimensional stability of the textile Functional affect the performance of the textile ex waterproofing fire How are finishes classified based on how long they remain in or on the fabric resistance Durable permanent o Thermoplastic textiles Utilize characteristics of synthetic fabrics heat sensitive fibers subjected to finishes involving heat treatment designs permanently set in fabric o Natural regenerated fibers involves resin treatment apply polymer to modify fabric Semi durable come off after a wash or two Non durable temporary Removed after one or two launderings or dry cleanings starch finish fabric softener What types of fibers can be heat set permanently Thermoplastics How can a durable finish be applied to a natural fiber Involves resin treatment apply polymer to modify fabric Are there any types of finishes that can be applied at home by the consumer Starch finish fabric softener What is a calender A Schreiner calender A friction calender An embossing calender Calender rollers that smooth and iron surface Schreiner Calender produces fabrics with soft luster and soft hand flattens yarns Friction Calender Also called Glazing fabric is saturated with starch or resin dried lightly fed into machine with rapidly moving heated roller polishes fabric Embossing calender pressing a pattern onto fabrics permanent when applied to thermoplastic fibers semi durable when applied to fabrics with resin treatment temporary on other fabrics How is fabric polished glazed or cired Polished cotton Chintz Cireing high surface polish the wet look natural fibers waxes or risens fabrics made with thermoplastic fibers fuse under heat of rollers What is moir Watered or clouded appearance ribbed fabrics taffeta and faille originally two lengths of same fabric placed face to face with one slightly off grain How can embossing be made permanent If applied to thermoplastic fibers What is brushing and napping Brushing fabrics made from staple fibers may be brushed to remove loose fiber from fabric surface and lay the pile in one direction Napping fibers ends are brushed up onto fabric surface to achieve a deeper pile usually made from fabrics with low twist yarns o Blankets o Sleepwear o Sweaters o Warm active wear What is dimensional stability in fabric The ability of a fabric to maintain dimensions when washed worn or used What is fulling of wool Wool fabric is subjected to heat moisture agitation to make it more compact fabric usually shrinks but becomes thicker and stronger How is fulled wool different from felt Felting wool is made into a nonwoven fabric directly from the fibers Fulling wool is spun into yarn and knit or woven then shrunk and compacted make fabric the shrinks it down Chapter 25 Chemical Finishes What are some examples of functional finishes Wrinkle resistance Fire resistance Waterproofing Antimicrobial finishes Antistatic What is the difference between resistant repellant and proof such as fire resistant and fire proof or water resistant and water proof Resistant repellant slows down the process whether it is burning wetting But does not completely stop process Proof Completely blocks process such as a burning or wetting What are some advantages and disadvantages of wrinkle resistant finishes Used mainly on cellulosic materials J Garments are wash and wear require little or no ironing J Makes fabric more dimensionally stable reduces shrinking L Fabric is less abrasion resistant likely to fray or crock L Difficult to alter clothing old hems and seams won t iron out new ones won t press well How to fabric softeners work How can they also reduce static What are some disadvantages of using them They reduce static by reducing the friction more slippery in the yarns therefore producing less static Turns yellow over time Reduces water absorbency of fabrics such as towels Considered THE MOST toxic item for a household use allergy s heart disorders etc Why are there more regulations about flame resistant finishes than any other Flame resistant the property of a material whereby flaming combustion is prevented terminated or inhabited following application of a source of ignition To prevent fires or fabrics like fire fighter suits safe Flammable fabrics Act passed in 1953 and amended 1967 What are some other functional non visible finishes that can be applied to fabrics What is the fire triangle Oxygen Fuel Heat Anti static finishes Anti bacterial anti microbial finishes Anti mildew anti rot Sun protective finishes Chapter 27 Textiles and the Environment What is sustainability The ability to continue a defined behavior indefinitely For textiles it means preserving resources so we can continue to produce How can the production of textiles have a negative impact on the environment How can this impact be reduced They require chemical fertilizers pesticides and defoliants needs heavy machinery to care for and harvest crop using gasoline requires much processing washing carding spinning using equipment power exposure to cotton dust causes lung problems requires chemicals and much water for dyeing Reduce impact wash with cold water Are natural fibers automatically better for the environment than synthetics Why or why not Look at answer above What does the term Green on a label or advertising mean 6 areas o safe for health and environment maximum credit is offered for maximum reduction of harmful chemistries o Energy efficient more credit for green sources of power o Bio based or recycled o Facility achievements o Re use and reclamation efforts o Social equity requirements such as no forces or child labor What are different ways of disposing of used garments Re use Second hand stored donate to charity o May be shipped to third world developing countries for resale o Reconstruct Recycle Dispose o Pre consumer waste the bits and pieces left from manufacturing Known for fiber content o Post consumer waste unknown fiber contents usually multiple other materials button zippers trim o Plastic bottles can be used for textiles or other plastic goods o Lanfill takes space 5 billion pounds of disposable diapers a year 2 of total solid waste in landfills o Composting Works only on natural fibers o Incinerating might be possible to produce energy What are some examples of environmental legislation that affect the production of