Final Exam Review Exam is Thursday December 13 10 00 a m 12 noon 100 points be sure to know the fiber categories In addition to the last chapters we covered in lecture since Exam 3 on Page 16 We have not had any questions that required you to know where all of the fibers fit in the categories AND the properties of each of the categories hydrophobic such as burning behavior hydrophilic or etc Red Burns Rapidly w o self diminishing Orange Burns and Melts Yellow Burns but self diminishes Blue Fire is DENIED Unsure Purple NATURAL FIBERS Cellulose cotton flax rayon et c Rubber Mineral asbestos Protein Animal fur hair Silk MANUFACTURED FIBERS Natural Fibers Manufacture Fibers Inorganic Glass etc Regenerated Synthetic Thermo plastic Ex Nylon Acrylic Chapter 23 Textile Printing What is printing Dyeing in a localized area to produce a pattern or design What are the printing methods we discussed in class How are they different from each other The printing methods include Direct Resist Discharge and Heat Transfer Direct Applying directly to the surface of the textile or yarns Resist When fabric is coated with a substance in certain areas to prevent the dye from working to create a pattern Discharge Putting a paste on the fabric that removes dye in certain areas Heat Transfer Dyes are printed onto a paper base and then transferred from the paper to the fabric The print is vaporized and deposits on the fabric What is blotch printing Both a colored background and design motifs are printed onto the fabric How is it different from overprinting Over printing is when the design is just printed over a previously dyed fabric textile How can you tell which was done Blotch printing is shown when the pigments or dye is absorbed and shows through to the other side while over printing simply stays on the surface and the pigments are not absorbed What is warp printing Warp yarns are printed before they are woven into a fabric How does it differ from true ikat tie dyed yarn Sections of warp yarns are dyed by resist methods differs because true ikat is woven with it coated warp yarns then dyed in a bath How is screen printing done Color is applied to a textile fabric by putting the screen over fabric then by placing wax stencil to prevent dye from touching certain areas to create a design or pattern How is it different from roller printing Designs are printed on engraved rollers then physically transferred onto the fabric What is devore burn out Blended fabrics are printed with an agent that will destroy certain types of fibers in the blend which creates a design that s semitransparent on an opaque surface What type of fabric must it be used on Fabrics must contain a blend of fibers to produce an effect Chapter 24 Physical and Mechanical Finishes What is the difference between aesthetic and functional finishes Aesthetic finishes change the textiles appearance hand and or texture Functional finishes improve the performance of the textile aka Water Fire Bacterial resistance How are finishes classified based on how long they remain in or on the fabric The 3 types of timed durability is Permanent Often to utilize the characteristics of synthetic fibers this finish last the lifetime of the product Ex Heat sensitive fibers subjected to finishes involving heat Fire suit Durable Involves Resin Chemical or Mechanical treatments this finish usually has a certain lifespan Ex Children s sleepwear has a fire resistance finish that lasts about 50 washes Temporary Is removed after 1 2 washes Ex Starch finishes What types of fibers can be heat set permanently Thermoplastic Fibers How can a durable finish be applied to a natural fiber If a natural fiber is treated with a type of resin first then a durable finish can be applied Are there any types of finishes that can be applied at home by the consumer Yes calendering along with brushing and stone washing can be done at home now What is a calender A Calender is a set of heated cylindrical rollers that flattens then smoothes out a fabric textile with speed pressure and heat A Schreiner calender The same basic design except one of the rollers is embossed w about 250 fine diagonal lines per inch It creates a softer luster and hand Ex Bed sheets A friction calender It operates with one heated roller moving rapidly over the surface of a textile going at a much slower speed The fabric is usually saturated with a starch temporary or resin permanent then dried slightly before being fed into the machine An embossing calender An embossing calender is made with 2 rollers One has a raised lowered engraving of a design the other is made of paper and has a smooth surface First the design is pressed onto the paper roller then the fabric is passed between both rollers each one works together to mold the shape of the design into the fabric Permanent with thermoplastics Durable with resin treated fabric and Temporary on others How is fabric polished glazed or cired By way of calendering Polishing Glazing is done by adding starch to the textile then having it passed between heated rollers at high speed Cireing is made by the same friction calendering techniques except its effects are produced on natural fibers with waxes or thermoplastic resins while the thermoplastics must be specifically heat sensitive The outcome is a permanent WET look caused by slight fusing of thermoplastic fibers resins What is moir A Wood Grain design finish applied to ribbed fabrics Taffeta Faille Bangaline of which there are two methods 1 Uses a roller with an etched design that is a repeatable pattern it s durable on thermoplastic fibers and cellulose treated with resin 2 2 lengths of same fabric placed face to face with one slightly off grain Grain Angle of interlacing W F yarns then calendered under extreme pressure to create a random moire pattern Pattern is destroyed on Natural textiles not treated with resins How can embossing be made permanent Only permanent with use of resins and thermoplastic fibers What is brushing and napping Ways of altering pile fabrics Napping Fiber ends are brushed up onto the fabric surface by hook like projections to create a deeper pile Brushing Fabrics made from staple fibers must be brushed to remove loose surface fibers What is dimensional stability in fabric The ability of a fiber or yarn to withstand shrinking or stretching What is fulling of wool Wool or animal hair fabrics are treated with moisture heat soap and pressure that causes the yarn to shrink lie closer together