to left Chapter 13 Yarn Structures What is the difference between staple spun yarns and filament yarns Staple spun made from staple length fibers usually twisting o Must be held together by some means to form yarn Filament long continuous strands of fibers made from manufactured fibers or silk filament What is the difference between monofilament and multifilament yarns Monofilament single strand ex Fishing line artificial hair Multifilament many fine filament yarns joined together This twisting is called Z twist slants to right or S twist slants Know what an S and a Z twist are What is a plied yarn If the original single yarns are spun Z what direction does the ply twist need to be Single group of filament or staple fibers twisted together Ply twisting together two or more single yarns S If you take two or more plied yarns and ply them together again what is the new yarn structure called What would the final plying direction be Cord yarns twisting together 2 or more ply yarns o Used in making ropes sewing thread and cordage Know the difference between simple plain yarns and fancy novelty yarns Simple yarns Yarns that are fairly smooth and uniform along Fancy Yarns that have unlike parts and that are irregular at S twist their length regular intervals o Single plied or cord o Spun filament or textured or any combination o Classified according to their number of parts and named Know the difference between these novelty yarns corkscrew boucle chenille slub for the effect that dominates the fabric Boucle loop or curl yarns has closed loops at regular intervals o Subject to snagging The other fine Spiral or Corkscrew Yarns have two plies One soft heavy Slub Either ply or single yarns of staple fibers o Thick and thin yarn made by either varying the amount of twist or by incorporating soft thick elongated tufts of fibers Chenille Made by cutting a specially woven ladder like fabric into warpwise strips o It has a caterpillar effect squirms out of fabric What is the difference between covered and core spun yarns Covered yarn Core of one yarn is completely covered with o Center core may add strength ex cotton sewing thread o Center core may add elasticity ex spandex core with polyester core art yarns wrapped with another yarn of better texture Corespun yarns Center core is covered with a wrapping of fiber instead of spun yarn o Similar uses as covered yarn Know the effect of the amount of twist on yarn low high crepe Higher twist yarns are o More firm o More fibers packed in a smaller area another yarn o Smaller in diameter o Smoother o Resilient o Twist adds bounce o More soil resistant o Resistant to snagging abrasion o Softer o Larger in diameter o More textured fiber ends not held in place o Less abrasion resistance Lower twist yarns are Know the difference between the direct and indirect methods of measuring the size of yarn What is denier What is a yarn count The Denier system Direct the higher the number the bigger the yearn filament o Fixed length of yarn is weighed o Denier weight in grams of 9000 meters of yarn o Simpler of the two systems o Higher denier numbers designate heavier thicker yarn o 100 denier nylon filament has twice the weight of equal o Used for all filament yarns o A 1 denier yarn is a yarn in which 9 000 meters if length 50 denier nylon filament weighed would equal 1 gram and 2 denier would equal 2 grams Indirect methods The higher the number the finer the yarn staple that weight fiber fibers o Based on a fixed weight of yarn how much length to get o How many yards can be spun from a given weight of o Developed from older methods of trade for natural o Used for all spun fibers o States number of hanks of specific length spun from a o Yarn count number is inversely proportional to weight o 50 count spun yarn as thick as 100 count spun yarn Chapter 14 Manufacturing Yarns What is a texturized filament yarn How is it done What are the advantages of texturized yarns pound of fiber Adds bulk resiliency softness and provides stretch Filaments are tangled into loops Less expensive than cutting and spinning May be done by one of two processes o Mechanical o Thermochemical What is the difference between carding and combing fibers Which is more expensive Why Carding drums with fine bent wires separate and align fibers can also blend different fibers like cotton and cut polyester o Most common process used in industry Combing a comb arranged the fibers into a parallel alignments o Removed short fibers and small tangles o Final yarn will be smoother stronger and more lustrous o More expensive because of the additional step requiring specialized equipment Some of the cotton fiber is removed Will usually be indicated on the label as a sign of quality What is drawing when it refers to preparation of staple fibers for spinning The carded or combed fibers are put through rollers o Forms a long smooth strand of fibers called a sliver o Further drawing produces a roving roving is ready to be What is the difference between the woolen and worsted system for preparing and spinning wool What would be appropriate end uses for each of these types spun Woolen system wool is carded Worsted system wool is combed o Long and short fibers mixed together o Yarn will be bulkier and softer with a fuzzy surface o Textiles will be soft fuzzy and warm o Long fibers only short fibers are removed o Yarns will be sleek smooth and lustrous o Stronger and better abrasion resistance o Textiles will have a smooth surface What is the difference between ring spinning and open end spinning What are the advantages of each Ring spinning produces a fine smooth yarn o High quality but slower and more expensive o Roving is fed down drawn out thinner through the ring and onto the bobbin twists the roving into yarn o Finished yarn is Smoother Stronger Able to make finer yarns Textiles feel nicer better hand Slower therefore more expensive Open end spinner fibers separated into thin stream by rotary beater o Moved by air and enter rotor o Drawn off to become attached to open end of already o Finished yarn is formed yarn Rougher Weaker Makes coarser yarns Textiles do not have as good hand Faster less expensive Good for towels denim What are slit film yarns without twist Can be classified as monofilaments synthetics formed directly Polymer is formed and stretched lengthwise fibrillation Fibrillation creation of fibers by drawing a polymer sheet lengthwise so as to cause sheet to spilt into a network of fibers