Line Development Approaches to line planning o Garments must be merchandised as a group To look appealing on the floor online or in a catalog To promote the sale of multiple pieces o Development of new style groups or silhouettes is achieved through Sketch designs using either hand or computer drawing techniques Drape design ideas to explore ways to achieve a unique fit of fluid Original designs silhouette Style modifications Styles from previous collections that sold well may be included in a new line with modifications made in details of o Styling o Color o fabrication knockoffs o diffusion lines Co branding garments that are adapted or modified from products designed by other firms lower priced lines adapted from a designer brand s signature line ex Rachel roy does lower priced line for macy s o Exclusive brand agreements o Alber Elbez Versace Stella McCartney and Viktor Rolf have all designed collections for H M o Missoni for Target Legal protection for the design of apparel pursuing design protection o Copyright protection Copyrights can be obtained for o Given the brief life cycle of an apparel design patents are not a viable option for 2D fabric designs Unique combinations of knit stitches Patterns on lace Orginal graphics on a T shirt Unique design of ornamental trims such as buttons and buckles U S courts have been guided by the principle that protection could create monopolies that would stifle the creativity of futre designers hinder competition and drive up prces o Innovative design protection and piracy prevention act Introduced to congress in 2010 Would protect unique distinguishable non trivial and non utilitarian variation of products for 3 years Pros Cons o Trade dress Provides incentives for start up designers to control access to their works and collect payment for them Start up designers who may need protection the most will likely not be able to afford the lawyers to file suits A broader term that covers the totality of elements Herve Leger sues Stretta in trade dress lawsuit Bandage dress o Trademark and trade dress US customs and Border Protection CBP Immigration Customs Enforcement ICE Prevent counterfeit goods from entering the country Organizing the line Investigate intellectual property fraud is the responsibility of o 1 Each design reviewed is evaluated carefully based on the needs of the business o 2 Those that do not meet the criteria established by the product development team are weeded out o 3 The staff settles on an assortment of product ideas that they believe will be most successful in the marketplace o 4 Once approved it is sent forward to technical design o Lines are developed either as items or as a group Item line development o Item lines consist of products intended to be sold alone one piece at a time o Dresses swimwear coats are developed in multiple small groups o Often dress swim groups are designed using related fabrics o Garments in a group line are designed to be mixed and matched and to encourage Coordinated group line development purchasing multiple pieces Pricing o A line s price point determines Where a product will be sold The brands it competes with The range of fabrics that can be used Who can afford it Quality expectations o Special pieces may be priced higher due to A unique feature such as a high tech fabric Or a hand crafted design detail Fashion level o Designers must understand their customer s styling and fit preferences and should not stray too far from those expectations o Pyramid assortment plan This type of planning is typically used by mass merchants Fashion items Key items for season Basic merchandise Timing considerations o May vary by product category o Take into account weather and seasonal shopping habits Balancing the line o Merchandisers must consider Assortment variety A garment that is made in 7 sizes and 3 colors results in 21 SKUs for which o Fabric and trim must be ordered o Manufacturing capacity must be reserved o Specs must be developed o Quality must be monitored o Sales and marketing decisions must be made Volume Mass market brands o Plan their volume according to historic data on their specific customer o Sell more large sizes than they have in the past The formula that works for one brand likely will not work for another Distribution Takes into account where each item will be sold o A stores Highest volume stores and or those that sell the most fashion merchandise o B stores o C stores The mid level range Smaller market that typically focuses on basics and more conservative merchandise Communicating design concepts o Concept boards are reviewed fabric and color direction concepts are approved o Line reviews of silhouettes are presented to the merchandisers and vice presidents of product development and approved o Silhouettes go to technical design where technical flats are developed o Concept boards Concept boards should convey Key colors Fabrics Silhouettes Details o Line review The silhouettes in each group are presented including their color assortment and fabrication Stakeholders who are part of the line review will make decisions as to which styles will go into production o Production Concept to Product Patternmaking a finished garment style o Methods of pattern development Draping o The interpretation of an initial concept into a template for use in the production of The first patternmaking method to be developed A fabric either the intended fabric or another less expensive type such as muslin is draped or shaped around a body form to create a 3D garment prototype Typically used for garments at higher price points especially garments with unique silhouettes such as women s formal wear or garments made from unusual fabrication Two dimensional methods include Drafting a pattern directly from measurements Flat pattern drafting o Can be done by manipulating a basic pattern template or previously perfected pattern blocks o Block A foundation pattern piece that may be used to develop new or more complex styles o Steps are now typically performed on computer aided design CAD systems developed expressly for flat pattern manipulation Sampling process Drafting a pattern from an existing garment o To determine if the styling and fit are truly developing as desired sample garments are produced and placed on dress forms and or models to evaluate the grain set line and balance Forms Fit models o Partial body shapes placed on a stand to use in patternmaking and fitting activities o Individuals who