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*Line Development- Approaches to line planningo Garments must be merchandised as a group To look appealing on the floor, online, or in a catalog To promote the sale of multiple pieceso Development of new style groups or silhouettes is achieved through Original designs- Sketch designs using either hand or computer drawing techniques- Drape design ideas to explore ways to achieve a unique fit of fluid silhouette Style modifications- Styles from previous collections that sold well may be included in a new line with modifications made in details of:o Stylingo Coloro fabrication knockoffs- garments that are adapted or modified from products designed by other firmso diffusion lines lower-priced lines adapted from a designer/brand’s signature line- ex. Rachel roy does lower-priced line for macy’s- Co-brandingo Exclusive brand agreementso Alber Elbez, Versace, Stella McCartney, and Viktor & Rolf have all designed collections for H&Mo Missoni for Target- Legal protection for the design of apparelo Given the brief life cycle of an apparel design, patents are not a viable option for pursuing design protectiono Copyright protection Copyrights can be obtained for:- 2D fabric designs- Unique combinations of knit stitches- Patterns on lace- Orginal graphics on a T-shirt- Unique design of ornamental trims such as buttons and buckles U.S. courts have been guided by the principle that protection “could createmonopolies… that would stifle the creativity of futre designers, hinder competition and drive up prces”o Innovative design protection and piracy prevention act Introduced to congress in 2010 Would protect “unique, distinguishable, non-trivial and non-utilitarian variation” of products for 3 years Pros- Provides incentives for start-up designers to control access to their works and collect payment for them Cons- Start-up designers who may need protection the most will likely not be able to afford the lawyers to file suitso Trade dress A broader term that covers the totality of elements Herve Leger sues Stretta in trade dress lawsuit- Bandage dresso Trademark and trade dress US customs and Border Protection (CBP) Immigration & Customs Enforcement (ICE)- Prevent counterfeit goods from entering the country- Investigate intellectual property fraud is the responsibility of- Organizing the lineo 1. Each design reviewed is evaluated carefully based on the needs of the businesso 2. Those that do not meet the criteria established by the product development team are weeded outo 3. The staff settles on an assortment of product ideas that they believe will be most successful in the marketplaceo 4. Once approved, it is sent forward to technical designo Lines are developed either as items or as a group- Item line developmento Item lines consist of products intended to be sold alone, one piece at a timeo Dresses, swimwear, coats are developed in multiple small groupso Often dress & swim groups are designed using related fabrics- Coordinated group line developmento Garments in a group line are designed to be mixed and matched and to encourage purchasing multiple pieces- Pricingo A line’s price point determines Where a product will be sold The brands it competes with The range of fabrics that can be used Who can afford it Quality expectationso Special pieces may be priced higher due to: A unique feature, such as a high-tech fabric Or a hand-crafted design detail- Fashion levelo Designers must understand their customer’s styling and fit preferences and shouldnot stray too far from those expectationso Pyramid assortment plan This type of planning is typically used by mass merchants- Fashion items- Key items for season- Basic merchandise- Timing considerationso May vary by product categoryo Take into account weather and seasonal shopping habits- Balancing the lineo Merchandisers must consider Assortment variety- A garment that is made in 7 sizes and 3 colors results in 21 SKUs for which:o Fabric and trim must be orderedo Manufacturing capacity must be reserved o Specs must be developedo Quality must be monitoredo Sales and marketing decisions must be made Volume- Mass-market brandso Plan their volume according to historic data on their specific customero Sell more large sizes than they have in the past- The formula that works for one brand likely will not work for another Distribution - Takes into account where each item will be soldo “A” stores Highest-volume stores and/or those that sell the most fashion merchandiseo “B” stores The mid-level rangeo “C” stores Smaller market that typically focuses on basics and more conservative merchandise- Communicating design conceptso Concept boards are reviewed; fabric and color direction concepts are approvedo Line reviews of silhouettes are presented to the merchandisers and vice presidentsof product development and approved o Silhouettes go to technical design, where technical flats are developedo Concept boards Concept boards should convey- Key colors- Fabrics- Silhouettes- Detailso Line review The silhouettes in each group are presented, including their color assortment and fabrication Stakeholders who are part of the line review will make decisions as to which styles will go into productiono Production * Concept to Product- Patternmakingo The interpretation of an initial concept into a template for use in the production ofa finished garment styleo Methods of pattern development Draping- The first patternmaking method to be developed- A fabric, either the intended fabric or another less-expensive type such as muslin, is draped or shaped around a body form to create a 3D garment prototype- Typically used for garments at higher price points, especially garments with unique silhouettes, such as women’s formal wear, orgarments made from unusual fabrication Two dimensional methods include- Drafting a pattern directly from measurements- Flat-pattern draftingo Can be done by manipulating a basic pattern template or previously perfected pattern blockso Block A foundation pattern piece that may be used to develop new or more complex styleso Steps are now typically performed on computer-aided design (CAD) systems—developed expressly for flat-pattern manipulation- Drafting a pattern from an existing garment- Sampling processo To determine if the styling and fit are truly developing as desired, sample garments are produced and placed

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FSU CTE 3431 - Line Development

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