Concept to Product Patternmaking The interpretation of an initial concept into a template for use in the production of finished garment style Methods of Pattern Development was the first patternmaking method to be developed Draping Two dimensional o Drafting a pattern directly from measurements o Flat Pattern previously perfected pattern blocks methods include o Drafting a pattern from an existing garment drafting which can be done by manipulating a basic pattern template or Block Flat pattern steps are now typically performed on computer aided design CAD systems A foundation pattern piece that may be used to develop new or complex styles developed expressly for flat pattern manipulation Flat Pattern Draping A fabric either the intended fabric or another less expensive type such as muslin is draped or shaped around a body form to create a 3D garment prototype Typically used for garments at higher price points especially garments with unique silhouettes such as women s formal wear or garments made from unusual fabrications Sampling Process To determine if the styling and fit are truly developing as desired sample garments are produced and placed on dress forms and or models to evaluate the grain set line and balance Forms Partial body shapes placed on a stand to use in patternmaking and fitting activities Fit Models Individuals who represent the age and build of the target customer and who conform to the intended mater size of the original design New Patternmaking Technologies A garment may be designed through virtual 3D modeling and the resulting style sketch laid flat to form the 2D outline printout for pattern pieces Patternmaking Needs The pattern determines the silhouette its complexity affects both PRICE and FIT Also affected by whether the firm is doing cut make and trim CMT sourcing or will be seeking a full package vendor Design Driven Product Development Design driven firms use more complex patterns and construction in order to remain on the cutting edge of fashion the layout of pattern pieces on the fabric will vary in efficiency Fabrics tend to be less standard Markers Specialized sewing capabilities may be required Smaller quantities of each style may be produced Manufacturing Driven Product Development Firms commoditize a style by Lowering the level of detail uniqueness or fit Simplifying patterns to maximize production efficiencies and timelines Firms make massive quantities sometimes in multiple plants at different locations resulting in drastic markdowns on leftover product STANDARDS Characteristics used as the basis of judgments made about a product Established to reflect the two major goals of any business To enable the company to make a profit To meet target customers expectations SPECIFICATIONS Specs are graphic and written descriptions of Styling Materials Dimensions Production procedures Finishing instructions The basis for contracts with vendors for materials production capacity establishment of criteria for maintaining quality standards and evaluating vendor compliance Product developers must write and notate specs in a way that is understood by all partners Computerized specs systems are used for real time communication between Buyers and sellers Manufacturers and vendors Management and production Designers patternmakers and sample makers Spec packs generally include o A full garment drawing o A technical flat drawing o Vendor identification o Measurement charts o Minimum performance standards o Preferred construction methods o Test methods used to confirm the performance of materials Materials are precisely described using o Exact colors o Fiber content o Yarn content o Weight o Width o Finishes applies to fabrics Open specs when the information provided is generic and contains only the very basic necessary facts Pros allow for flexibility on the part of the producer and vendor Cons may lead to some undesirable surprises in end products Closed specs when the information is detailed and specific requires the use of exact materials and may even predetermine the exact suppliers Pros ensure the suitability consistency of final products Cons may increase the end cost of products because they limit flexibility in the use of materials and methods or production Vendor compliance Adherence to specs and the evaluation of the outcomes Tolerances The variation from identified criteria that will be allowed during production Products that do not fit within the tolerances are designated as seconds or irregulars and are rejects The most commonly expressed tolerances are the variations in measurements of the finished garments Acceptable tolerance amounts must NOT extend into the spec from the next size larger or smaller than the original measurements Specification Development Specs are Presented in written and graphic formats Developed in stages Can vary from simples to complex depending on the PRODUCT Design Specs At a minimum the design specs include A style summer sheet with drawings of the front and back of the style A preliminary cost sheet with the product cost estimates The preliminary cost sheet records the estimates of Labor Materials All other costs of producing a garment sample Technical Specs or the Spec Pack Detailed information regarding materials Specific fabrics findings and trims and quality requirements Fit and measurement standards and tolerances Grade measurements for each size of the range to be produced Identification of preferred construction methods The focus is on the development of first production patterns and production sample approvals 1 Material Specifications The component spec sheet sometimes labeled materials specifications is a listing of all of the fabrics findings trims that will be used in the garment 2 Garment Measurements Most frequently used spec sheets are measurement charts All garment measurements needed for the sample size in the pattern All measurements needed for other sizes in projected range 3 Production Specs The Final Stage of specification development Provides for producing quantities rather than individual prototype garments May require development of an operations list that identifies each step of construction including the identification of the stitches and seams involved Branding Branding is the use of Name Symbol Sign Design OR experience to identify and tell a story about goods services and or sellers Branding Basics Brand awareness Brand Identity Brand Image The world 10 most powerful luxury brands 1 Luis