CTE 3431 Quiz 3Line DevelopmentLine Planning: garments must be merchandised as a group to look appealing on the floor, online, or in a catalog and to promote the sale of multiple pieces Development of new style groups or silhouettes is achieved through: Original Designs, Style Modification, and Knockoffs1. Original Designs: Sketch designs using either hand or computer drawing techniques, drape design ideas to explore ways to achieve a unique fit or fluid silhouette2. Style Modification: Styles from previous collections that sold well may be included in a new line with modifications made in details of: styling, color or fabrication3. Knockoffs: Garments that are adapted or modified from products designed by other firmsDiffusion lines: lower priced lines adapted from a designers brand/signature lineCo-branding: exclusive brand agreementsex. Missoni for TargetLegal protection for design of apparel: given the brief life cycle of an apparel design, patents are not a viable option for pursuing design protectionCopyrights obtained for:•2D fabric designs•Unique combinations of knit stitches•Patterns on lace•Original graphics on a T-shirt•Unique design or ornamental trims such as buttons and bucklesInnovative design protection and piracy prevention act:•Introduced to Congress in 2010•Would protect “unique, distinguishable, non-trivial and non-utilitarian variation” of products for 3 yearsPros- provides incentives for start-up designers to control access to their works andcollect payment for themCons- start-up designers who may need protection the most will likely not be able to afford the lawyers to file suitsUS Customs and Border Protection (CBP) and Immigration & Customs Enforcement (ICE):•Prevent counterfeit goods from entering the country•Investigate intellectual property fraud is the responsibility ofStoryboards: potential silhouettes, fabric swatches, color samplesItem lines consist of products intended to be sold alone, one piece at a timedresses, swimwear, coats developed in small groups using related fabricsCoordinated group line development: garments in a group line re designed to be mixed and matched and to encourage purchasing multiple piecesParameters of line development:1. Pricing- determines behavior, where product is sold, brands competes with, range of fabrics used, who can afford it, quality expectations- what’s sold in Saks is different than JC Penney Average price point- important when sourcing fabric2. Fashion Level- designers must understand their customer’s styling and fit preferences and should not stray too far from expectations- aesthetic consumer expects details, most brands have mix of basic and fashion goods pyramid assortment plan- typically used by mass merchants3. Timing Considerations- may vary by product category, take into account weather and seasonal shopping habits timing of production and delivery influences speed to market Northeast vs. SoutheastBalancing the Line: merchandisers must consider- assortment variety, volume, distribution- core drivers, repeat styles, volume-quantity drive more sales volume; understanding variety of styles to produce- # of colors, fabrication options, volume of demand- demand shown by consumer salesA line is considered balanced when it includes a range of garments that satisfy the preferences of target customer Assortment variety- a variety of styles- color and fabrication; constantly analyze and edit; specs developed- sample size grade up and down; complex and expensiveVolume- drivers of sales, volume of demand detailed by: style, size, color ex. how many t-shirts vs. blouses; size driven by silhouette detailsDistribution- where product is going to be sold, weather driven- ex. Saks in NYC will sell everything; not always sales volume in entire store; ABC stores: A stores- highest volume stores and/or those that sell most merchandise, B stores- the mid-level range, C stores- smaller market that typically focuses on basics and more conservative merchandiseOrganizing the Line: 1. Each design reviewed is evaluated carefully based on the needs of the business2. Those that do not meet the criteria established by the product development team are weeded out3. The staff settles on an assortment of product ideas that they believe will be most successful in the marketplace 4. Once approved, it is sent forward to technical designLines are developed either as items or as a groupStrong editing process supported by stats and data, range of styles developed to meet demandCommunication design concepts1. Concept boards are reviewed; fabric and color direction concepts are approved2. Story boards provide an overview of a collection and are used both during LINE DEVELOPMENT and for the FINAL LINE REVIEW when presented to the executive team for approval 3. Silhouettes go to technical design, where technical flats are developed and prepared for productionTrade dress- can include the shape and appearance of the product or its packaging, the cover of a book or magazine, or the unique layout and appearance of a business establishmentConcept to Product All about consumer behavior, we analyze constantly; have to be accurate and focused Patternmaking- the interpretation of an initial concept into a template for use in the production of a finished garment styleMethods:•Draping was the first patternmaking method to be developed Two-dimensional methods include:•Drafting a pattern directly from measurements•Flat-pattern drafting, which can be done by manipulating a basic pattern template or previously perfected pattern blocks•Drafting a pattern from an existing garmentFlat-pattern- involves making styling changes to previously developed and perfected pattern pieces; typically performed on computer-aided design (CAD) systemsBlock- a foundation pattern piece, which may be used to develop new or more complex stylesDraping- A fabric, either the intended fabric or another less-expensive type such as muslin, is draped or shaped around a body form to create a 3D garment prototype- typically used for garments at higher price points, especially garments with unique silhouettes, such as women’s formal wear, or garments made from unusual fabricationsSampling Process- to determine if the styling and fit are truly developing as desired, sample garments are produced and placed on dress forms and/or models to evaluate the grain, set, line, and balanceForms- partial body shapes placed on a stand to use in