Exam 3 Study Guide Chapter 18 Knits Know knitting terminology Each loop in a knit fabric Stitch Course Wale Rows of loops across width of fabric Columns of loops across length of fabric Gauge Number of stitches per inch across the width of the fabric Ex 10 stitches across the width its gauge is 1 10 Stitch density Weft knitting Number of stitches loops per square inch Multiply course and wales rows and columns of stitches Know the difference between weft knitting and warp knitting Knits in which the yarns interlace crosswise horizontal direction Ex Jersey rib purl missed fleece jersey Ex Filling knits Warp knitting Ex Tricot raschel Knits in which the yarns interlace in a vertical direction Be able to recognize diagrams of both Know two basic weft knitting stitches knit and purl Make a garment by interlocking rows of loops called stitches As each row progresses a new loop is pulled through an existing loop The active stitches are hld on a needle until another loop can be passed through tem Knit Purl Filling knit loops go behind the loop above it High crosswise and lengthwise stretch Small quantities of fabric made in purl knit High crosswise and lengthwise stretch Basically to knit with a reverse stitch how can they can be combined Rib stitching is how they can be combined Lengthwise ribs formed by wales alternating on face and back of fabric Made by alternating knit and purl stitches All of the loops look the same and are meshed in the same manner Wales show on the face and the courses show on the back Greater elasticity in the width than length Stable does not curl or stretch Often used for cuffs and necklines Know knitted fabrics structures Jersey Most easily distorted of all knits Edges curl Purl Filling knit loops go behind the loop above it High crosswise and lengthwise stretch Small quantities of fabric made in purl knit High crosswise and lengthwise stretch Rib Made by alternating knit and purl stitches Greater elasticity in the width than length Stable does not curl or stretch Often used for cuffs and necklines Jacquard Lengthwise ribs formed by wales alternating on face and back of fabric A fabric made on a loop with such a device with an intricate variegated pattern The device facilitates the weaving of figured and brocaded fabrics Missed Stitch In order to create a design effect a stitch may be missed in a regular pattern Loose fiber from sliver gets knitted into back ground fabric which is often olefin a continuous strand of loosely assembled fibers that is fairly uniform and without twist Know how fake fur and pile knits are made Sliver knit pile Sliver Tricot Know the two types of warp knit Doesn t ravel can curl Almost no stretch in lengthwise direction Technical face looks like jersey knit Technical back printing Crosswise ribs on back of the fabric Fabric made Raschel crosswise lines often more smooth than face technical back often used as right side because its smoother for Columns of loops are connected by inlaid yarns traversing from column to column up Any weight or thickness Pillar and inlay effect is a common feature the fabric Fabric made Anything from lace to carpet Know how the fibers for nonwovens are put in position Dry forming Wet forming Mechanical Know examples of the means for bonding consolidating the fibers Needle punching The web is fed into a machine with bed of barbed needles Needles move in and out of web entangling fibers High speed jets of water hitting fibrous web bind fibers together by causing them to knot or curl around each other Spun lacing Stitch bonding Not on exam Thermal Thermoplastic fibers may be bonded by heat Application of heat causes the fusing together of heat sensitive fibers Heat may be applied in a pattern to provide sufficient bonding for durability and allow greater flexibility and softness Filaments are blown onto a moving belt where they form a web As the still hot and partially molten filaments touch they bond Filament fibers are not easily torn Uses carpet backing apparel interlining geo textiles Spun bonding Strong Chemical Applying an adhesive material to the web and then setting the adhesive Glues the fibers together Solvent A method of making nonwoven fabrics in which a solvent is used to soften the fiber surfaces in a web or batt hence cause bonding Know some durable and non durable uses for nonwovens Durable Multi use Geo textiles Imitation fur Upholstery backing Wall covering backing Interfacing Disposable Thrown away after one use Diapers Tea bags Wipes Dental bibs Examination gowns Know that felt was the earliest non woven made mechanically bonded Chapter 20 Other Fabric Construction Methods Know the basic compound or multicomponent fabrics and how they are made Basic compound Stitch bonded fabrics Fiber webs are stitched through to hold the fibers together One component is a fiber web yarns or preformed fabric The other is a series of stitches thathold it together Warp and filling yarns laid loosely one over the other Third set of yarns stitches the warp and weft yarns together less expensive than weaving Used for mechanically bonding nonwovens Multi component fabrics Tufted fabrics A type of textile weaving in which a thread is inserted on a primary base It is an ancient technique for making warm garments especially mittens After the knitting is done short u shaped loops of extra yarn are introduced through the fabric from the outside so that their ends point inwards Embroidery Two components fabric base yarn that decorates it Quilted Fabrics 3 parts filling material batting two layers of decorative outer fabric provides good thermal insulation because inner layer traps air Laminated Bonded Bonded thickness Laminated retained Face fabric is joined to a backing fabric with an adhesive that doesn t add much Face fabric joined to a continuous sheet material in such a way that identity of SM is May or may not be joined on back with another fabric Flocked Fabrics Short fibers are adhered to surface of fabric to give illusion of pile fabric Adhesive used on base fabric Flock is applied mechanically or electrostatically Coated Fabrics Fabrics coated with thin polymer films Provide protection from water chemicals weather Simulate leather or other materials Ultrasuede Composed of polyester microfibers Nonwoven web is mechanically bonded by needle punching or by hydroentangling Note that quilting and embroidery can be done by hand and have been done for hundreds of years Chapter 22 Color A light source An