1 Review for Exam 3 CTE 3512 History of Dress Fall 2012 32 Multiple Choices and True False Questions 1 5 points x 32 48 points 32 Matching Questions 1 point x 32 32 points 80 points Ch 15 The Edwardian Period and World War I Edwardian styles with emphasis on S shaped silhouette 1900 1909 Empire revival and hobble skirt 1909 1914 1914 1918 WWI 1918 1919 Postwar styles Paul Poiret Young French designer left House of Worth after Jean Phillipe didn t approve His work captures focal point of style from 1903 to WWI in Paris couture Did away with corsets uses vivid colors and creator of hobble skirts First to market perfume Hobble skirts Created by Paul Poiret Skirt with such narrow hems that women could hardly move Breasts fee but leg shackled Worn with long tunic was very popular Delphos gown Created by Spanish designer Fortuny who was popular from 1906 to 1949 Designed Delphos gown in 1907 which were inspired from ancient Greek styles was his most famous design PLEATED Designer Fortuny was inspired by Renaissance and Oriental designs Oriental MAJOR in this period Duster Long coat worn for driving cars so dirt wasn t kicked up on you Usually cotton or linen and long shown in book as tan and long Lingerie dresses Dresses of the time were S shaped with frilly and very decorated with soft fabrics The lingerie dresses were a popular white frilly cotton or linen dress with decorations like tucking pleating lace inserts bands of fabric lace and embroidery Resembled lingerie of the period Frilly ruffles jabots on front of neck Bishop sleeve Gathered at armhole and full below the elbow with fabric puffed or pouched at the wrist Art Nouveau Style of art architecture and applied art especially the decorative arts that was most popular during 1890 1910 Tailor made Today called a Women s suit Jackets varied in length ending from either hips to below the waist Many imitated cut of men s jackets Blouses shirtwaists were separate 2 Tea gowns Soft less fitted gowns worn in late afternoon by more wealthy women Gowns created by Fortuny were often worn as tea gowns Pompadour Hair style from 1900 with hair built high in front and at sides around the face Knickers drawers In 1909 1914 most women wore combination underwear like a brassiere ornamented with lace and embroidery rather than drawers knickers and a chemise This was because of the more narrow silhouette after 1909 which required princess line petticoats Dresses replaced with a straighter line and women now show their necks Peg top skirts Skirts still narrow circumference with fullness concentrated at the hip then narrowing gradually to ankles Worn with long tunic Minaret tunic Designed by Paul Poiret was a wide tunic boned to hold out the skirt in a full circle and worn over the narrowest of hobble skirts Pullovers Knitted sweaters that were pulled over the head became popular in 1915 Had no discernable waist belted at hip and had long sleeves Usually attributed to Coco Chanel in WWI Also during wartime 1914 1918 tailored suits became more popular and one piece dresses preferred over two piece skirts shorter with kind of wider skirts After the end of the war skirts were narrow again and hemlines went back down to the ankle Sport jackets Casual jackets Sack jackets became standard suit for men in 20th century even for leisure American tailors called these coats sack jackets and the British preferred the term lounge coat Basically just men s hip length coat most outer part of suit Ascots Necktie variation which were ties with wide ends that were worn with one end looped over the other and held in place with a tie pin Scott Disick Top coats Ended at the hip Worn by affluent men who could afford more than one overcoat Blazer Ascendants of the modern sport jacket worn with unmatched trousers for tennis yachting or other sports 3 Jodhpurs A pair of trousers fitted closely around the lower leg and flaring out above the knee Originated in India where they were adopted by the British colonials and spread through West Worn for horse riding with a jacket with flared skirt Ch 16 The Twenties Thirties and World War II Flapper Until WWI there were certain standards of behavior for women to not drink smoke or kiss boys unless intend to marry By the 1920 s all this changed and the flapper was a women free from all restraints of the past that smoked drank and wore skirts revealing legs with flesh colored stockings and lipstick Paralleled changing social roles of women after the war L 85 Regulations Guidelines during WW2 1941 1945 that restricted the quantity of cloth that could be used in clothing because of the shortage of many fabrics They saved fabric by eliminating trouser cuffs extra pockets vests with double breasted suites and regulating width of skirt hems Used more Rayon during this time wool was scarce Most women entered workforce at this time because the men were drafted for war and it required special clothes for active physical labor Shortage of fabrics for stockings led to women to paint legs with makeup Leather shoes rationed 2 new pairs a year during war Decreased max lengths for jackets and trouser inseams eliminated waistcoats and double breasted suits cuffs pleats in trousers and overlapping waitsbands Sportswear Attendance at sporting events in 1920 s broke all records Interest in watching sports had side effect of greater interest in participating in sports making sports clothing more important The need for practical casual dress established sportswear as a separate clothing category in 1920s Became popular by rich first for tennis riding and skiing sportswear as well as recreational use of car Hookless fasteners Eventually renamed the zipper Whitcomb Judson invented hookless fastner in 1891 didn t work well then Gideion Sundback fixed it and used them for corsets gloves sleeping bags money belts and tobacco pouches BF Goodrich bought hookless fasteners for rubber boots and used the term Zipper boots Word Zipper TM in 1925 Eventually very widely used and popular when English Prince of Whales wore zippered trousers to zip fly area Charles James first major designer to use zipper as decorative element in 1933 and took off By early 1940 s zipper used as basic closure for all clothing of different price ranges Gabrielle Coco Chanel French Couture primary style setters Chanel stands out as major French designer during this time just as influential as Pioret in Edwardian times Had great success making comfortable practical clothes like casual