Chp 13 The Crinoline Period 1850 1869 Crinoline Period Increasing width of skirts led to use of more and more petticoats making skirts heavy and stiff hoop skirts were revived Named after the cage crinoline a device for holding out women s skirts abolishing slavery Women s rights advocates were pushing for dress reform and During the civil war 1861 1865 Sewing machines boomed Charles Worth founder of French couture interchangeable parts for clothing Levi s Gold rush in California in 1848 miners needed sturdy clothing Originated when Levi Strauss took a supply of heavy duty canvas to San Francisco in 1850 to sell to miners for tents Miners complained that their work pants were not holding up in the conditions so Levi Strauss hired a tailor to make sturdy clothing with his canvas They were a success the next batch he used sturdier fabric denim and dyed them blue with indigo Turkish trousers an early attempt at women s dress reform adopted by Elizabeth Smith Miller who saw them at health sanitariums in Europe women wore short skirts over them had full legs that were gathered to fit tightly at the ankle Bloomers The bloomer costume consisted of a pair of full trousers Turkish gathered in at the ankle with a knee length skirt over it Few people took up the style much ridicule One lady Amelia Bloomer took up the style too It was later named after her The cut of the trousers retained the name bloomer and the women s undergarments that had the similar cut were nicknamed after them Used in sports and swimwear mainly Crinoline cage made skirts lighter and better so bloomer dress faded away Empress Eugenie nephew in 1853 A Spanish countess who married Louis Napolean III Napolean s Worn designs made by Charles Worth Known for dressing extravagantly in public even though she did not care about fashion and was reluctant to adopt new styles At home she wore a black dress Followed fashion was not a fashion setter Wrote that she was obliged to have 20 dresses a day Women 1850 1870 Also called corset cover because it was placed over the corset Waist length shaped to the figure had short sleeves buttoned down the front Camisole Corsets An undergarment worn over the chemise but under the camisole Less whalebone was used now shaped with gores of fabric and inset gussets of elastic With introduction of crinolines corsets shortened When crinolines became smaller corsets became tighter No longer called stays Also worn by men Basques An extension of the bodice below the waist looks like a tiny skirt Some extended 6 inches below waist and were even all the way around others were short in front and low in back French term for the removable lace or muslin undersleeves worn Engageantes with open sleeves Pagoda sleeves Sleeves that were narrow at the shoulder and expanded abruptly to a wide mouth at the end Sometimes shorter in front and longer in back Usually worn over an engageante or false undersleeve Garibaldi A red cotton blouse named after General Giuseppe Garibaldi that was popular in the 1860s The general and his soldiers wore something very similar as uniform in the military campaign to unite Italy Princess dress A new one piece style that was cut without a waistline seam Long gored sections extended from the shoulder to the floor and were shaped to fit at the waist through the curved cut of the sections Snood A net that hair was usually worn in during the day Made of colored silk or chenille Men 1850 1870 Reefers Also called Pea Jackets Loose double breasted jackets with side vents and small collars Also worn as overcoats Knickerbockers Sportswear garment in the 1850s Cut with loose legs and belted into a band that buckled just below the knee Name later shortened to Knickers Outdoor garment cut along the same lines as a frock coat but Frock overcoat Cutaway coat longer coats Tail coat English term for a morning coat new market coats or riding A single breasted coat waist seam curves away gradually from the waist into a pair of tails behind that are rounded off topped by two ornamental buttons on the waist seam Also called dress coats Cut with a short square cut in in front and tails at the back 1850s worn for both day and for evening formal occasions 1860s strictly evening dress Inverness cape Outdoor garment large loose overcoat with full sleeves and a cape ending at wrist length Think Sherlock Holmes Raglan cape A full overcoat where the setting of the sleeve was joined in a diagonal hole seam running from under the arm to the neckline Sewing machine Isaac Singer developed the first successful domestic sewing machines to be manufactured on a production line basis using interchangeable parts Crucial for making ready to wear clothing for soldiers Contributed to the fashions of ready made women s cloaks and hoopskirts Ready to wear industry Sewing machine was very important to supply the growing American population with ready to wear clothing after the war First items to be mass produced men s shirts aprons and calico dresses Then came men s and boys suits and overcoats A dress version of the sack suit jacket Introduced in the 1880s named after where it originated Tuxedo New York Also called dinner jacket in England Tuxedo Bowler Also called a Derby Hat Had a hard round crown and a small brim slightly turned up on sides Chp 14 The Bustle Period and the Nineties 1870 1900 Bustle Period 1870 1890 Got its name from the device that provided the shaping for a skirt silhouette with marked back fullness Bustle padded cushion like devices hoop frames rigid shelf like structure drapery manipulation o 1870 1878 the earliest bustles were created by manipulating the skirt in a waterfall like effect often with a train o 1878 1873 called a sheath or cuirass bodice the second bustle type dropped fullness to below the hip at the back of the knee o 1883 1890 The final bustle was rigid and shelf like and rarely had a train In the 1890s skirts lost back fullness and sleeves grew larger usually leg of mutton sleeves skirts more circular and an hour glass shape silhouette became fashionable 1890s called The Gay Nineties because the western world was emerging from the serous moralistic tone of the Victorian Era Women were entering workforce participating in sports Pre Raphaelite Aesthetic and Art Nouveau movements were bicycling reflected in dress Rationals The English term for a bifurcated garment a sort of full knicker that was created as a practical costume for women cyclists in the 1890s Pre Raphaelite movement A