1 CTE 3512 Exam 2 Study Guide Chapter 13 The Crinoline Period 1850 1869 1 Crinoline Period a The Crinoline is a device that holds women s skirts b Dress reform c Invention of the sewing machine and photography a Blue denim trousers and were popular as durable pants for men of the California a Full legs that were gathered to fit tightly at the ankle a Cut of trousers retained this name but women s undergarments were nicknamed a Adopted the style of wearing short skirts over Turkish trousers She did not originate the style but it was named after her a Fashion icon and adopted the designs of English fashion designer Charles Worth a Or corset cover b Waist length garment was shaped to the figure had short sleeves and buttoned a Cut like a jacket and had extensions of the bodice below the waist and flared out a Sleeves that were open at the end and were worn with removable lace or muslin a Narrow at the shoulder and expanded and expanded abruptly to a wide mouth at 2 Levi s Gold Rush 3 Turkish trousers 4 Bloomers this 5 Amelia Bloomer 6 Empress Eugenie 7 Camisole down the front 8 Basques below the waist 9 Engageantes under sleeves 10 Pagoda sleeves the end 11 Garibaldi 12 Princess Dress 13 Reefers 14 Snood 15 Knickerbockers a Red Blouse especially popular in the 1860s a New one piece style that was cut without a waistline seam a Identical in design to a pea coat but for officers and chief petty officers a In daytime hair was frequently made of colored silk or chenille 2 a Sportswear garment cut loose legs and belted into a band that buckled just below a Shortened name for Knickerbockers a Cut along the same lines as the frock coat but longer a A mans formal daytime coat having the front portion of the skirt cut away from the waist so as to curve or slope to the tails at the back a A large loose overcoat with full sleeves and a cape ending at wrist length a A full overcoat with an innovative sleeve construction Instead of setting the sleeve into a round armscye t was joined in a diagonal hole seam running from under the arm to the neckline a Made for the general market and sold through stores rather than made to order for an individual customer off the rack the knee 16 Knickers 17 Frock Overcoat 18 Cutaway Coat 19 Inverness cape 20 Raglan Cape 21 Ready to Wear 22 Tuxedo 23 Bowler a A mans dinner jacket for a formal evening a A mans hard felt hat with a round dome shaped crown Chapter 14 The Bustle Period and the Nineties 1 The Bustle Period Derived its name from the device that provided the shaping for a skirt silhouette Last decade of the 19th century was called the Gay Nineties or in France La with marked back fullness Belle Epoque This period began in France with the shock of the Franco Prussian War French Aries were defeated and Napoleon III surrendered to the victorious Prussian armies 2 Bicycles The English Bicycle front wheel five feet high and a rear wheel of eight inches intrigued a few manufacturers First Lady Cyclists i Originally in long skirts even while wearing bustles but in the 1890s a bifurcated garment a sort of a full knicker was devised as a practical costume for the sport Few women adopted this and were called rationals ii Gave silk fabric greater body in which the silk was treated with chemical salts Excessive weighting causes fabric to wear out more quickly 3 Weighting i 4 Mercerizing Treating cotton fabrics with sodium hydroxide 3 i Improved strength receptivity to dyes and luster 5 First women s garment to be available in stores Underclothes and Wrappers 6 Mass Production Invention of the sewing machine was a major factor Ebenezer Butterick i Patented a special type of tissue paper pattern that he sold i Made in different sizes ii The sized paper dress pattern helped to standardize sizes necessary for RTW 7 Victorian Period Arts eclectic Architecture Gothic and Renaissance styles Revivals of Rococo Louis XVI and neo Greek forms 8 Pre Raphaelite movement A group of painters who opposed the direction of English art of the 1840s Took themes form medieval and Renaissance stories Japanese influences as well 9 Aesthetic movement A popular form of the Pre Raphaelie philosophy i Japanese and Asian influences were pronounced especially in textiles and other decorative arts Oscar Wilde wore his own version of Aesthetic costume An attempt by artists and artisans to develop a style with no roots in earlier artistic Emphasizes sinuous curved lines contorted and stylized forms of nature and a 10 Art Nouveau movements constant sense of movement 11 Shaping of the Bustle 1870 1878 A full bustle created by the manipulation of the drapery in the back of the skirt 1878 1883 the sheath or cuirass bodice i Fashionable fullness dropped to below the hips and a semicircular frame supported the trailing skirts 1884 1890 Large rigid shelf like bustles A garment combining the chemise and drawers 12 Combination 13 Tea Gown Intended to provide some relief from the tight lacing it was worn without a corset loosely fitted and had softer lines compared to daytime and evening gowns Viewed as national or reform garments 14 Princess Polonaise 15 Cuirass Bodice When the outer fabric was looped up or draped over the hip 4 16 Kick Up 17 Ulster 18 Dolman 19 Jersey A long jacket ending in a point at the front and fitting smoothly over the hips This cut req less back fullness and the bustle fullness decreased gradually Puff at the sleeve cap A long belted coat often made with a removable shoulder cape or hood Semi fitted garment of hip to floor length that was shaped like a coat but had a wide bottomed sleeve that was part of the body of the garment a sort of coat cape Lillie Langtry adopted wool knit fabric as a tennis costume She was born on the British island of Jersey and was nicknamed the Jersey Lily and as a result the fabric became know as Jersey 20 Clocks A small design 21 Camisoles Corset covers i 22 Shirtwaist or Waists It was usual to wear one or two petticoats Name for blouses Were among the first products of the growing American ready to wear industry 23 Tailor mades 24 Gibson Girl 25 Union Suits Matching jackets and skirts worn with a blouse Predominant fashions for wear outside the home An arrangement with deep soft waves around the face AKA Combinations United drawers and under vests into one garment 26 Norfolk Jacket A belted sport jacket 27 Inverness Cape Garment with full cape covering the shoulders and arms or a cape in front that fitted into the armscye in the back so that from