Review for Exam 2 CTE 3512 History of Dress Spring 2014 30 Multiple Choices and True False Questions 1 5 points x 30 45 points 20 Matching Questions 1 point x 20 20 points 65 points Part V The Nineteenth Century 1800 1900 Holoku A dress made for Queen Dowager Kalakua that was full length with a loose fit that fell from a yoke had a high neck and long sleeves The style is considered tradi tional Hawaiian dress Mu umu u Hawaiian version of the chemise Meaning cut off Women wore them for swimming and sleeping Impressionist Painters that often displayed Japanese kimonos in their work They were inspired by Japanese woodblock prints Dress reform Attempts to change apparel for women in 1851 and 1854 by the suffrag ists Bloomer costume The costume the dress re form was leaning towards Where a short full dress was worn over trousers Named af ter Amelia Bloomer and adopted by Susan B Anthony and Lucy Stone It was not a suc cess Rational artistic dress Appropriate dress on the artistic ideal Arts and Crafts movement Aesthetic or artistic dress with looser fit diminished draperies and less restrictive corseting for a more healthful instead of fashionable ap proach Ch 11 The Directoire Period and the Empire Period 1790 1820 Kashmir shawls made from soft hair of the cashmere goat woven in Kashmir a north ern province on the Indian subcontinent Wore mainly by Indian men Paisley shawls Produced in the Scottish town of Paisley the traditional palm design took the shape of a pine cone and was so widely known that it became known as Pais ley Native American influence Designs that were practical for the climate and geography were adapted from Native American influ ence into Western dress Directoire Period Directory 1790 1800 5 man executive government Empire Period The period in which Napoleon Bonaparte was head of state in France Bonnet rouge The red cap of liberty sym bol of freedom since Roman times Sans culottes Without knee breeches The group of working class men that wore trousers and supported the Revolution Merveilleuses The marvelous ones women long flowing trains sheerest fabrics extremely low cut necklines huge hats shaggy unkempt hair dress Incroyables The incredibles men loose waistcoats fit at shoulders excessively tight breeches huge cravats and collars shaggy unkempt hair dress Dandy a fashionable man who dresses well circulated in the best society and who was always ready for a witty comment Pantalettes long drawers with lace and ruf fles or pleats at the edges that showed at the hem of the dresses Round gowns Dresses that did not open in the front to display the petticoat High stomacher dress complex construc tion the bodice was sewn to the skirt at the back only Spencer short was it length jacket cut just below the bustline short or long sleeves could be worn by both men and women Pelisse coat like garment empire silhou ette often had a fur wrap with or on it Toques high brimless hats Ch 12 The Romantic Period 1820 1850 Carriage dresses day dresses Romantic movement A form of rebellion against restrictions on artistic expression Bustles small down or cotton filled pads that tied on around the waist at the back and held out skirts in the back Promenade day dresses Pelisse robe outdoor garment Reticules small handbags with a drawstring at the top interchangeable with the word in dispensibles Indispensibles see reticules Cravats interchangeable with the word stocks a tie like garment worn around a high standing collar Stocks see cravats Pantaloons tightly fitted had straps that fit under the instep to keep from riding up worn by men Cossacks Extremely full trousers were based on the dress of Russian soldiers Top hats predominant style Bicorne two pointed hat worn with the points from front to back or from side to side Chapeau bras two pointed hat worn for the evening and carried flatted under the arm A la victime a short hairstyle referring to the short hair of the victims of the guillotine Idiot sleeves extrememly full from shoulder to wrist gathered as wrist in fitted cuff named for a sort of straight jacket look Marie sleeve full tied in puffs with ribbons or bands Pelerines a cape like garment typical women s dress of 1830 cross between a col lar and a cape reinforces the broad but slop ing shoulder effect Fichu pelerine two wide panels or lappets extending down the front of the dress and passed under the belt Imbecile sleeves same as idiot sleeves Santon a silk cravat worn over a ruff Leg of mutton sleeves full at shoulder gradually decrease to fitted cuff Gigot same as leg o mutton Demi gigot full from shoulder to elbow fit ted from elbow to wrist Canezou a small sleeveless spencer worn over a bodice or a garment similar to the pelerine A la chinoise pulled back and side hair into knot at top hair at forehead and temples in curls Eton suit for boys consisted of a short sin gle breasted jacket ending at the waits Tunic suit for boys consisted of a jacket fitted to the waist where it attached to a full gathered or pleated skirt that ended at the knee Mackintosh waterproof rubber coat loose fitting Chesterfield no waistline short vent in back no side pleats other velvet collar of ten double breasted Derby hats United States term for stiff round bowl shaped crowns with harrow brims hats Bowlers Term for derby hats in England Berthas wide deep collars following the neckline The Victoria a variation of the sleeve en bouffant with a puff at the elbow Sleeve en bouffant also called en sabot al ternated places of tightness and puffed out expansions Bishop sleeve vertical pleats at shoulder release to a fitted cuff Capote soft fabric crown stiff brim Bonnet Sun bonnet Mantlet a short garment rather like a hybrid between a shawl and a short mantle with points handing down at either side of the front Ch 13 The Crinoline Period 1850 1869 Shawl mantlet same as mantlet Pelerine mantlet with a deep cape coming well over the elbows and having long broad front lappets worn over not under a belt Burnous a larger mantle of about three quarter length with a hood the name and style deriving form a similar garment worn by Arabs who lived int he Middle Eastern deserts Pardessus outdoor wear that had a defined waistline and sleeves and were from one half to three quarters in length Galoshes rubber overshoes Mittens gloves cut to cover the palm and back of the hand but not the fingers Mitts same as mittens Carriage parasols had folding handles Newmarket coat that gradually sloped to the back from well