Chapter 18 Knits Know knitting terminology Stitch each loop in a knit fabric Course Rows of loops across width of fabric Wale columns of loops across length of fabric Show on the back Show on the front gauge Number of stitches per inch across the width of the fabric usually fraction expressed i e if there are 10 stitches across the width the gauge is 10 or 1 10 higher the gauge the closer the stitches Stitch density number of stitches loops per square inch going down multiply COURSES X WALES Know the difference between weft knitting and warp knitting Be able to recognize diagrams of both Weft or filling knits are those in which the yarns interlace crosswise warp knits are those in which the yarns interlace in a vertical direction WARP WEFT Know two basic weft knitting stitched knit and purl and how they can be combined Weft knit are yarn formation and stitches in a weft knit fabric Purl are filling knit loops that go behind the loop above it Combined by rib stitching made by alternating knit and purl stitching Knit Garment made by interlocking rows of loops called stitches Active stitches held on needle until another loop is passed through Purl Filling knit loops fo behind the loop above it High crosswise lengthwise stretch Small quantities of fabrics made in purl knit Know knitted fabrics structures Jersey plain knit All loops look the same and in same manner Knit most easily distorted stretched and edges curl More stretched in crosswise than lengthwise direction Wales show on face Courses show on back Purl Filling loops go behind and above it filling High crosswise and lengthwise stretch Rib Formed by Wales that alternate front back 1x1 2x2 greater elasticity on width than length Stable don t stretch curl Jacquard A fabric with an intricately woven pattern The design is incorporated into the weave instead of being printed or dyed on Missed Stitch FLOAT In order to create a design effect decor a stitch may be missed in a regular pattern Know how fake fur and pile knits are made Sliver knit pile a continuous strand loosely assembled fibers that is fairly uniform and w o twist Process locks individual fibers directly into a lightweight knit backing allowing each fiber to stand upright free from the backing to form the soft pile on the face of the fabric mostly olefin Know the two types of warp knit tricot and raschel and what types of fabric they make Tricot Made with two sets of threads fine vertical wales on the face crosswise ribs appear in a horizontal position on the backside Seldom used in garments however used as BACKING for some bonded fabrics Almost no stretch in lengthwise direction has a unique weave that allows it to be smooth on one side back while sporting texture on the other face Technical back often used as right side smoother for printing USES women undergarments leggings dolls homecrafting o Looks like chevron cause of zigzag pattern on yarns Raschel Columns of loops are connected by in laid yarns traversing from column to column up the fabric Open structures Pillar inlay effect common feature Elaborated patterned surface USES From lace to carpet o embroidery power nets swimwear thermal cloth for cold weather underwear and lace Know how the fibers for nonwovens are put in position Staple fibers are produced by either of these Dry forming carding dry laying or air laying Manner similar to sliver for yarn spinning except the thin film of fibers removed from the card is not drawn together into a sliver but is laid onto a conveyor o Direction in which fibers are laid down is machine direction o Thicker webs built up by layering carded webs Wet forming Manner similar to paper making in that mix of fibers in water is collected on a screen drained and dried o Most common Wood pulp w short cellulosic fibers o Staple fibers most expensive harder to disperse Know examples of the means for bonding consolidating the fibers Mechanical Needlepunching web is fed into machine with bed of barbed needles which move in out of web entangling fibers Spunlacing high speed jets of water hitting fibrous web bind fibers together by causing them to knot or curl around each other Stitchbonding fiber webs are stitched through to hold the fibers together manually Thermal sensitive fibers are heated causes to slightly soften and then bonded to something else Allows for greater flex bonding durability and softness Spunbonding 1 Filaments are blown onto a moving belt where they from a web 2 As they are still hot partially molten they bond a Strong not easily torn b Uses carpet backing apparel interlinings geotextiles Chemical applying adhesive material to the web then setting the adhesive which glues fibers together Solvent solvent is applied to soften the fiber surface in a web causing bonding Know some durable and non durable uses for nonwovens DURABLE multi use Geotextiles Insulated clothing Imitation fur Upholstery backing Wall covering backing DISPOSABLE thrown away after one use Diapers Tea bags Examination gowns Wipes Dental bibs Know that felt was the earliest non woven made mechanically bonded Traditionally wool True felting entanglement of a mass of fibers o Combination of Heat Moisture pressure Chemical bonded too Chapter 20 Other Fabric Construction Methods Know the basic compound or multicomponent fabrics and how they are made MULTICOMPONENT Tufted fabrics process of punching a first component loops of yarns through a second component a woven nonwoven backing material Fabrics faster than pile carpet construction does not require such highly skilled craftspersons and requires less expensive equipment to manufacture Ancient technique for warm garments Not necessarily inferior in quality depends on fibers yarns backing material used Lace individual yarns are joined into decorative patterns Macram looping and knotting yarns Variation of making nets but variation of closed knotted areas are emphasized Popular in 70s and 80s Usually wall hangings Embroidery Not for constructing but decorating 2 comoponents fabric base yarn that decorates it Quilted Fabrics 3 components at least filling material cotton batting wool down sandwiched between 2 or more layers of decorative outer fabric Decorative stitching strong thread to keep from shifting Can be bonded with adhesive expensive Most are polyester easy care Thermal insulation in between two layers Ultrasonic Quilting not most decorative Heatwaves generate heat to bond layer for quilting Must be thermoplastic Uses synthetic fiber apparel