Final Exam review Based on in class discussion Finishes Mostly after the fabric is made Lat step before product reaches the consumer Sometimes includes coloration Finishing is usually performed on greige goods Greige goods fabrics that have just come off the weaving or knitting machine with no finishing processes Two points when finishes are applied Topical after the product is made must be on natural fibers Generally used on consumer products Least expensive Solution applied in the solution for the manufactured fibers More expensive Finishes Permanent last lifetime of the product disposable health flame retardant Usually permanently set in the product Often utilize characteristics of synthetic fabrics Durable have a certain lifespan Involves resin chemical or mechanical treatments Flame retardant Have to be effective for about 50 laundry cycles Temporary removed after on eor two launderings or dry cleanings Starch finish When you flatten a round yarn doesn t matter if its synthetic or natural it changes the way the light reflects of its surface making them look glossy and makes it more wrinkle free Calendering types Calendaring mechanical finish Pass fabrics bw a series of two or more rollers Purpose smooth fabric or create interesting surface effects Types 1 Simple Dampened cloth passed bw the heated cylinders Smoothes and flattens the yarns and fabric Produces wrinkle free slightly glossy finish 2 Glazing Fabric saturated with starch or resin Dried slightly Fed into machine with rapidly moving heated roller Polishes fabric Ex chintz or polished cotton 3 Cire ing High surface polish the wet look Natural fibers waxes or resins Fabrics made with thermoplastic fibers fuse slightly under the heat of rollers Ex back in the 70s for raincoats 4 Embossing Pressing a pattern onto fabrics roller has design on it Permanent when applied to thermoplastic heat rollers with design Durable when applied to fabrics with resin treatment Temp on other fabrics 5 Schreinering Produces fabrics with soft luster and soft hand One of calendar rolls embossed with 250 fine diagonal lines per inch Flattens yarns Ex damask 6 Moire Watered or clouded appearance Ribbed fabrics taffeta and faille Two lengths of same fabric places face to face with one slightly off grain Enormous pressure by smooth moire rollers Other surface finishes 1 Beetling Linen or cotton intended to look like lustrous linen Fabric is pounded machine with hammers Flattens the yarns and makes them more lustrous 2 Sueding Fiber ends are brushed up onto fabric surface to achieve low pile Applied to woven and knitted fabrics Sueding sanding abrasive material used 3 Napping Fiber ends are brushed up onto fabric surface to achieve deeper pile Usually made from fabrics with low twist yarns Machine with hook like projections catch fibers and pull them to fabric surface Ex flannel Brushing Fabrics made from staple fibers may be brushed to remove loose fiber from fabric surface Brushed denim Brushed tricot Makes it softer Design finishes Burn out designs chemicals dissolve some of the fibers while leaving other unharmed Must be a blend bc one will be dissolved Plisse puckered effect looks like searsucker Created by imprinting chemicals that cause fabric to shrink in imprinted areas Other area does not shrink Permanent Parchmentizing Permanent stiffening of cotton Application of acid solution hydrochloric acid causes surface of yarns to soften Afterwash in cold water causes yarn surface to harden permanently Functional finishes Finishes that enhance performance of material Most aren t visible Repellent retardant resistant Slows down process whether its burning wetting etc But doesn t completely stop the process Ex water repellent or flame resistant Proof completely blocks processes such as burning wetting etc Ex such as waterproof or flameproof Stages at which finishes are added 1 topical added after material is made all natural fibers and some manufactured 2 solution added in solution when fiber is manufactured More expensive must bond with other chemicals Water repellence and Waterproof Water repellent fabrics resist penetration by water but are not completely waterproof By chemical finishes and fabric construction Waterproof no liquid water can penetrate the fabric By coating fabric or by using microscopic holes that allow water vapor to go through but not water drops ex gore tex soil and stain repellent topical finishes that resist penetration by water and oil based stains food and dirt ex scotchgard zepel soil release finishes develop for hydrophobic fibers that absorb and hold soil particularly oil based stains finishes make the fiber more hydrophilic so the water and detergent can get into the fabric fibers and release the soil stain antistatic finishes conditions for static electric charge build up are cool dry environment manufactured fibers build up static bc they are hydrophobic and don t allow conduction of electric charge antistatic info a healthy adult human body can tolerate about 5000 volts of elec charge can be too much for safety in sensitive areas with life sustaining equipment or other electronics max allowable is 3500 volts in life threatening situations the max is 2500 volts anti static finishes work by making the material a better conductor of charge by making it more absorbent anti bacterial anti microbial finishes inhibit growth of bacteria ex use in health care hotel restaurant home furnishings athletic products anti mildew anti rot finishes mold mildew and fungus grow on some textile materials in a damp environment cellulosics may be damaged beyond repair stained sun protective finishes the incidence of skin cancer and melanoma is increasing rate sun emits UVA and UVB that are harmful to skin people who suffer sunburns and extended exposure often develop skin cancer fibers manufactured fibers such as polyester provide most skin protection fabrics with tight construction woven not knit and color rather than white provide most protection sun protective finishes are the fastest growing in research bc it is health related wrinkle resistant finishes used mainly on cellulosics chemicals applied which bond in amorphous areas in the fibers and develop stronger bonds giving the fibers a memory that cause fabric to return to its unwrinkled position first finishes available in late 1940s but used more in 1960s fashions changed and finishing process caused problems with the durability of the garments pilling abrasion and yellowing