• First 5 questions = first 5 stages • Put them in order• Planning a line• Creating the design concept• Developing design • Planning production• Wanna see yields in the 80's and 90's • Chapter 6/7- Textiles• Properties of cotton• Nylon- Henry Caruthers- Wallace Caruthers • Tradenames vs. Generic names for fibers• Fiber marketing- read in book• Textile converter takes greige goods, finish them, sell/market them• Microfiber• New technology • Quite a few questions on leather and fur • Luxury fibers- different animal names for fibers- chart in book• Properties of polyester• Lab dip is a color match for textiles• Leather and fur• Leather- quickest method for tanning: skins and kips• Manufactured fur: synthetic or fake fur, faux, used widely and costs less • Wild vs. farm raised fur • What animal is most often farm raised• How is price of fur pelt is determined• How mink is manufactured• Chapter 8- Design team • Who is on a design team• Product categories for women wear• Size ranges• Price zones• Designer• Bridge• Better• Moderate• Mass/Budget • Super rich related to company talked about in class- Loro Piana• Design inspiration• Street, fabrics, trend reports, cultural, etc. • Have to have something new every season• Nothing from past season• Zeitgeist- "spirit of the time"• Pop culture• Staple colors vs. fashion colors • Black, white, cream/beige, navy= staple• Carry over- style that sold well last year, might have a good sell-through• Sell-through• 2 questions on costing• Materials- 25%• Labor- 25%• Overhead- 25%• Profit- 25%(what's left over)• All above result in wholesale cost- $100• Retail price(keystone)- $200• Half of retail price is wholesale (keystone)• Line-for-line copy- replicate garment and use similar fabric• Knock-off- use cheaper fabric • Designer- sketch, patternmaker• Merchandiser only concerned about business• Sourcing• Technical Drawing• Spreading • Men's Wear• Know the categories • Suits most labor intensive and might have most hand-sewn features• Chelsea's company- Peerless• Children's wear • Based on demographics• Started to see trend with TV- child target advertising became more sophisticated• Children's wear company in class- Pixie Girl• 2 licensing organizations• Warner Brothers and Disney• Patterns are traced from slopers• Sloper is same size as fit model• Slopers made out of oaktag- file folder stuff• Spec sheets have measurements, tech. drawing, swatch, and style number AM 101 – Exam 2 Study Guide Chapter 6 – Textiles, Fibers, and Fabrics ■ Cotton (Natural Fiber)o Requires warm climate and irrigated watero Texas, Georgia, and North Carolina- Most widely used for fiber- Cellulosic (carbohydrate)- Absorbs moisture- Cooling effect- US leads in production- Egypt, 2nd in Pima (long staple) production■ Nylono 2nd most manufactured Fibero Wallace (Henry) Caruthers – Harvard graduate who invented Nylon ■ Brand Names – distinguish generic fiber families (TM)■ Trade Names – distinguish fibers within the same generic familyGeneric name- non trademarked nameso Lycra (tradename)– Spandex (generic name) (DuPont)o Dacron- Polyester (DuPont)o Fortel – Polyester (DuPont)o Fortel – Polyester (Celanese)o Acrilan – Acrylic (Monsanto)o Antron – Nylon (DuPont)■ Fiber Marketing – Vortex Advertising, publicity, market research Trade associations to promote fiber Advantages as fiber Ecological appeal Customer service Directed at retailers and consumers■ Textile Converterso Take greige goods, finish them, then continues to sell and market them■ Microfibers: a fiber that is two or three times smaller than human hairThinnest/finest manufactured fiber Major break through■ New Technology Increased mechanization/automation Rotary screen printing Computer programming Chapter 7 – Leather and Fur■ Luxury Fiberso Animals (*look up the chart in book)-Leather: cattle, sheep/lamb, goat/kia, Equine, buffalo, pig/hog, kangaroo/wallaby (aquatic, land, reptile)-Fur: ■ Polyester Lap Dip = Color for matching textiles■ Leathero Quickest method for tanning: skins/kips-Tanning: transforming animal pelts into leather o Tanneries:§ Regular – purchase and process skins and hides into leather§ Contract – process skins and hides for converters, but are not involved in the final sale of the leather§ Converters – purchase the skin and hides ■ Manufactured Fur - synthetic/ "fake" fur (Faux) Used widely and costs less Made from natural resources; emits chemicals■ Furo Wild – Surplus of fur bearing animal, not endangeredo Farm – 64% of fur farms in N Europe■ How is the price of fur pelt determined? Pelt- skin of fur bearing animal Bundle- by quality and color ■ How is Mink developed? Farm raised, more expensive o Carbon DioxideMink most often farm raised Chapter 8 – Product Development: teaming of market and trend research with merchandising, design, and technical process todevelop final product■ Design Teamo Designer – will sketch and make the patterno Design Assistanto Merchandiser – is only concerned about the businesso Product Developer / Technical Design Product Categories: Active wear Bridal Wear Maternity Formal Wear■ Product Categories for Womeno Size Ranges:§ Misses – regular even numbers 0-20§ Juniors – regular odd numbers 1-15§ Petites –women under 5’4■ Number followed by P, Misses or Junior§ Women’s – even numbers 12W-26W, or XL-XXXXl, 1X-3XL o Prize Zones:§ Designer – highest price§ Bridge – between designer and better- 1/3 to ½ of designer pric Contemporary – New Zoneo Youngest designers: innovative, seek broader market than designer zoneo Use less expensive fabricso Located in low rent areaso Jackets $90-$120§ Better – Medium Priced§ Moderate – i.e. Simply Vera for Vera Wang§ Budget – Mass Market§ New Zone – High end for the super rich special prices in limited quantities■ Loro Piani – start with raw material, manufacture textile & product, sell to market which is the top 10% ofthe top 1%■ Italian Company; 3 stores in Coloradoo Where do designers get inspiration?o Mood/Inspiration Board - street, fabric,