AM 101 – Exam 2 Study GuideChapter 6 – Textiles, Fibers, and Fabrics· Cotton (Natural Fiber)o Requires warm climate and irrigated watero Texas, Georgia, and North Carolina- Most widely used for fiber- Cellulosic (carbohydrate)- Absorbs moisture- Cooling effect- US leads in production- Egypt, 2nd in Pima (long staple) production· Nylono2nd most manufactured Fibero Wallace (Henry) Caruthers – Harvard graduate who invented Nylon· Brand Names – distinguish generic fiber families (TM)· Trade Names – distinguish fibers within the same generic familyGeneric name- non trademarked nameso Lycra (tradename)– Spandex (generic name) (DuPont)o Dacron- Polyester (DuPont)o Fortel – Polyester (DuPont)o Fortel – Polyester (Celanese)o Acrilan – Acrylic (Monsanto)o Antron – Nylon (DuPont)· Fiber Marketing – Vortex     Advertising, publicity, market research     Trade associations to promote fiber       Advantages as fiber       Ecological appeal     Customer service     Directed at retailers and consumers· Textile Converterso Take greige goods, finish them, then continues to sell and market them· Microfibers: a fiber that is two or three times smaller than human hair     Thinnest/finest manufactured fiber     Major break through· New Technology     Increased mechanization/automation     Rotary screen printing     Computer programmingChapter 7 – Leather and Fur· Luxury Fiberso Animals (*look up the chart in book)-Leather: cattle, sheep/lamb, goat/kia, Equine, buffalo, pig/hog, kangaroo/wallaby(aquatic, land, reptile)-Fur:· Polyester Lap Dip = Color for matching textiles· Leathero Quickest method for tanning: skins/kips-Tanning: transforming animal pelts into leathero Tanneries:§ Regular – purchase and process skins and hides into leather§ Contract – process skins and hides for converters, but are not involved in the final sale of the leather§ Converters – purchase the skin and hides· Manufactured Fur - synthetic/ "fake" fur (Faux)     Used widely and costs less     Made from natural resources; emits chemicals· Furo Wild – Surplus of fur bearing animal, not endangeredo Farm – 64% of fur farms in N Europe· How is the price of fur pelt determined?   Pelt- skin of fur bearing animal     Bundle- by quality and color· How is Mink developed?           Farm raised, more expensiveo Carbon DioxideMink most often farm raisedChapter 8 – Product Development: teaming of market and trend research with merchandising, design, and technical process to develop final product· Design Teamo Designer – will sketch and make the patterno Design Assistanto Merchandiser – is only concerned about the businesso Product Developer / Technical Design          Product Categories:               Active wear               Bridal Wear                      Maternity               Formal Wear· Product Categories for Womeno Size Ranges:§ Misses – regular even numbers 0-20§ Juniors – regular odd numbers 1-15§ Petites –women under 5’4· Number followed by P, Misses or Junior§ Women’s – even numbers 12W-26W, or XL-XXXXl, 1X-3XLo Prize Zones:§ Designer – highest price§ Bridge – between designer and better- 1/3 to ½ of designer pric Contemporary – New Zone o Youngest designers: innovative, seek broader market than designer zoneo Use less expensive fabricso Located in low rent areaso Jackets $90-$120§ Better – Medium Priced§ Moderate – i.e. Simply Vera for Vera Wang§ Budget – Mass Market§ New Zone – High end for the super rich special prices in limited quantities· Loro Piani – start with raw material, manufacture textile & product, sell to market which is the top 10% of the top 1%· Italian Company; 3 stores in Coloradoo Where do designers get inspiration?o Mood/Inspiration Board - street, fabric, trend reports, cultural, current events, pop cultureo Something new every season (nothing from past season unless it is very vintage)o Zeitgeist – “spirit of the timePlanning a line     Designer under direction of merchandiser     Research; review trends, colors, fabrics     Sales records/mark downs     Trend boards2. Creating design concept     Sketch individual garments on croquis       Sketches reviewed to fit target consumer and fit line concept     Cost analysis     Retail price point3. Developing the design     Approve sketches       Fit Sessions       Slopers4. Planning production     Sourcing: determining where the components are ppurchased          Fabrics          Trims          Where garment will be cut and sewn     Fabric if ordered          Exact cost determined          $ to finance     Samples duplicated to present to retail buyers     Seasonal trade shows     In house showrooms     Spec Sheets- measurements; no cost; can change5. Productions     Cutting, sewing, finishing, quality assurance 