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• Market• Place where goods are sold at wholesale prices to stores• Market centers• New York• Advantages• 1000s of showrooms• No central market- garment district• Couture higher priced situated on 7th Ave. - elegant showrooms• Moderate / Sportswear situated on Broadway• Whatever is new will be seen in NYC first• Every kind of fashion• Every price range• Most manufacturers maintain a NY showroom • 550 7th Ave. - highest building; best designers• Rate design firms in NY by the address, 1000s of companies in 7th-8th Ave. and Broadway• 1470 Broadway = sportswear • Market is open year round• Specific times for market weeks• Buyers have department stores/boutiques/flagship stores• National headquarters allow buyers to network• Fashion capital of the US• Metropolitan Museum and FIT museum access• Restaurants and nightclubs • Disadvantages• Lack of central market• Buildings are old and deteriorating• Cost is doing business is highest• Traffic tangles on crowded streets• Rents are spiraling• Local taxes are high• FASHION BUSINESS IMPROVEMENT DISTRICT (BID) established to reenergize the garment district • LA• Casual lifestyle• Southern California is nation's largest manufacturing center• LA fashion industry supports 66,000 jobs• Home to sportswear manufacturers• Guess• BCBG• Surf fashion• Hurley • Billabong• Spread out along the West Coast• More than 4,000 garment manufacturers • California Mart• Dallas• Miami• Foreign Fashion Markets• Clothing is designed and presented on two levels• Haute Couture (High fashion)• Luxury fabrics• Exquisite details• Expensive• Limited numbers (exclusive)• Prices being in thousands• Affordable only to a small group of wealthy women • Pret-A-Porter• Ready to wear• Produced in large numbers• Semi-annual shoes for design collections• Provide inspiration for inexpensive mass market designs • Fall/Winter - March• Spring/Summer - October• Salon Du Prêt-A-Porter Feminin• Porte De Versailles Exhibition Center• 40,000 Buyers• Rival Ready to Wear in Milan• Pret-A-Porter mode masculin• Important to men's wear industry• January and July • France• Fashion showcase originated at Versailles• Created market for beautiful fabrics• Tapestries• Lace-alencon• 1858- Charlesworth- Father of paris couture• 1907- Paul Poiret• Staged fashion shows• Introduced perfume • Couture House• Designer is known as "couturier"• Houses are known by names of founders• Names survives after retirement or death 1868• 'Chambre Syndical de la Couture Parisienne' founded• By invitation only• House must abide by strict rules• Chambre Syndicale is strong for in French fashion industry• Organizes and schedules biannual market shows• Represents members in regulation of wage and working houses• Registers and copyrights new fashion designers • US has no copyright protection for clothing designs • Couture Shows• Paris • Spring/Summer - Late January • Fall/Winter- Late July • Promotional for couturier • All clothes in Haute Couture collection• Made to measure• Customers set appointments for fitting• Select sample from runway show• Very expensive• Sales are declining • Declining craftsmanship skills of designers and staff• Designers are turning to ready to wear • Boutiques• Licensing • Most lucrative business activities for couturiers• Most popular prestige licenses:• Perfume• Shoes• Bags• Sunglasses: Luxottica • Watches • French Ready-to-wear• Young, innovative add excitement to insustry• Dries Van Noten • Olivier Theyskens• Junya Watanabe• Changes the image of paris to international fashion leadership• French creatures have small share of market • Karl Lagerfeld• Christian Lacroix • Jean-Paul Gaultier • 1200 companies are mass produces • Italian Fashion• Milan Fashion Week• Couture Designers located in Milan, Florence, Rome- No central location• Depend on Italian Fabric and Yan innovation and design• No haute couture runway shows in Italy• Valentino and versace show in Paris• London Fashion• Savile Row- Men's "Bespoke" Tailoring• Hippie, Mod Punk became innovative fashion center • Twiggy• Asian Fashion• Japan• 1970's • Hanae Mori• Issey Miyake• First worked in Paris, thought of as French • 1980's- Avant Garde designers• Comme des Garcons• Yohji Yamamota• Matsuhiro Matsuda • Not commercially successful in America• 1990- Retro pop culture- street fashion • Concept more important than commercial results• China• Largest silk producer• Acquired modern technology for quality weaving printing and eying• Trade shows in Beijing and Shanghai • Trends in Global Markets• Fashion weeks geared townard promoting local desinger industry• Competing with dominant capitals• new York, Milan, Paris• Trend 1: Mart management and trade association respoinding to shifts in population • Trend 2: Expense of attending shows has had impact on buyers • Senior buys only on trips• Make decision for more departments and store units• Trend 3:• Sourcing and materials• Importers and exporters of finished goods • Trend 4:• Especially with basic fashion goods• Buyers, press, consumers• Trend 5• Marts• Complex of buildings to house wholesale market- Denver, Chicago• Owned and operated by independent investorsInternational Trading- Imports – buying foreign goods- Export – the country that furnishes the goods- Apparel and Textiles■■■■ 1116 countries shipped goods■■■■ U.S. Imported 93.3 billion in 2007- Offshore Production■■■■ Foreign workers complete steps to manufacture goods of U.S., Canada, & Western Europe companies■■■■ Tale advertising of resources in developing countries Offshore Production o Fibers grown in one country o Fabric woven in 2nd country o Cut in 3rd county o Assembled in 4th country § Sourcing decisions regarding multinational goods regarding ú Quality ú Production Costs ú Legal Issues ú Import Taxes ú Quotaso Kid Robot – Yummy Toys§ Originated in NY and ended up in Boulder§ Target Market - Collectors / 40 year old virgin Retail Imports- Primary importers of foreign fashion goods■■■■ Unique – make the store stand out■■■■ Quality■■■■ Low Cost – Higher


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CSU AM 101 - Lecture notes

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