50 Multiple Choice 1900 500 shops in NYC producing shirtwaist Shirtwaist by Dana Gibson Very first part of women s RTW Adopted for the working woman Gibson Girls cid 127 Women immigrant workers need appropriate dress for the factory Sweatshop poor working conditions on lower east side Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire Introduction to unions 1901 Nordstrom opens in Seattle First store for Men s RTW Brooks Brothers 1920 Women s garment district moved to 7th Ave Mid town Manhattan because of the two train stations French Fashion Chanel 20 s 30 s Sportswear Industry in California 1850 Levi Strauss work trousers during Gold Rush Claire McCardell American Designer 1st to design jumpsuit romper 1st well known American designer bc of the war 1940 s cid 127 WWII Devastated all fashion houses especially in France Started as a trade school but is now a state school 1950 s Dior s new look 1947 Silhouette of the 50 s 1944 Fashion Institute of Technology F I T founded to support New York Fashion Industry Silhouette change after major world wars Teenage Apparel Baby boom never considered before 1960 s Acrylic Polyester and Triacetate developed intro of synthetic fibers 1960 s The definition of fashion Broad Prevailing custom usage or style Narrow Style or styles of clothing and accessories worn at a particular time by a particular group of people Design manufacturing distribution marketing retailing advertising communications publishing consulting The outward form through which the mind speaks to the universe The power that influences the world Fashion Designed to Fashion Business cid 127 Make shape model adapt embellish and adorn Industries and services connected with fashion Fashion Merchandising Marketing THE 5 P s Planning the right timing with the right PRODUCT for the right PRICE to the right PEOPLE Style Characteristic with the right PLACE with the right quantities Distinctive appearance of a garment Style always remains a style whether in fashion or not Fashion Socially accepted even with a small group Contemporary trend based on style cid 127 Will be adopted for a period of time Eventually comes to an end High Fashion Accepted by a limited number of fashion leaders cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 DIFFERENCE BETWEEN STYLE FASHION HIGH FASHION AND DESIGN Classic Exaggerated feature or detail which excited the interest of the customer cid 127 Want to be first to adopt change and innovation in fashion Small quantities High price Design Limited because of exclusive or extreme to general public Individual interpretation of a style New version New treatment of a style A new way of doing creativity Each design produced has a style number Identities manufacturer used for orders Style considered in good taste over long period of time Satisfies a basic need Remains accepted in fashion for an extended period of time Simplicity of design Simple lines Remains stable throughout time Fad Sweeps into popularity cid 127 Quickly disappears cid 127 Quickly imitated Flood the market in short time REVIEW Chapter 1 cid 127 Mechanization of the power loom Slaves in the south to hand pick cotton Cotton gin advanced industry Flying shuttle power weaving Samuel Slater 1789 Skilled mechanic in England cid 127 Memorized blueprint of water powered spinning machine Declared himself a farmer to leave England and come to US cid 127 Moved to New England where there is a ready supply of water Started US industry Singer Elias Howe Eli Whitney etc developed machines 1900 Men s RTW specifically in military uniforms cid 127 Work wear Levi Strauss Brooks Brothers first men s RTW New York industry because all immigrants coming into New York 1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Fire event that shaped industry Shirtwaist was first women s RTW created by Gibson Unions started most importantly the International Ladies Garment Workers Union ILGWU Chapter 2 Fashion has to be new and accepted by some peer group Silhouette is the shape changes very slowly changes after major world wars or disasters rationing of fabric 1947 Dior s New Look Inside aspects Color details lines styles and texture the material itself US textile industry came from England Samuel Slater disguised as a farmer and memorized water spinning machine blue prints to bring to US cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 Creation Innovation secondary level manufacturers Fashion Leaders auxiliary level of fashion Increasing social visibility awareness Conformity mass market Saturation Book Rise Culmination Decline Obsolescence Culmination and conformity relate to different parts of the market Couture Avante Garde shock of the new designer contemporary bridge moderate mass budget Age 15 24 most interested in fashion education level profession family household income gross income less taxes less rent food cable bills disposable income leftover discretionary income 80 s and 90 s there was a switch where lower class was influencing the upper class Trickle Up Theory Upward Flow 5 P s of Fashion Marketing Fashion Horizontal Flow trends flowing from one peer group to another across same class The 4 forces that influence fashion Social Feminist movement Sexual bending and gender roles cid 127 Metrosexual Men s Economic Cultural Historic Fashion Cycle Recreational drug use Chapter 3 Demographics hard facts Psychographics Lifestyles Social class Activities Interests Values Beliefs cid 127 Market to psychographics Chapter 4 Trickle Down Theory Downward flow Lower class emulating upper class PLANNING right PRODUCT right PRICE right PERSON in the right PLACE Rise of fads Chapter 5 Fashion Business Sole Proprietor ownership no stock Flexible All liable for debt Taxed personal income Easy to set up and dissolve Partnerships ownership no stock cid 127 General Partnerships 2 both liable for debt Unlimited liability shared income profit taxed personally Limited